Thursday, June 9, 2011

Sunny Halifax

Once we checked out we walked around to the backside of the hotel to the lake and sat for a bit. The water was very clear and I enjoyed watching a tiny fish about the size of my pinkie flutter it's fins. It just kind of hovered over a rock near my feet. Wonder if it thought I'd feed it. A mallard then came over to check us out. He swam really close by, stopped on a rock to scratch an itch, and then slowly swam on by.

Then Carol and Megan dropped me off at the hostel downtown as they are heading back to Maine today. The reception was closed for lunch, so I walked over to a nearby park, laid down and read my book for a few hours, using my pack as a headrest. Today was the first warm, completely dry, sunny day I've seen in a long time. Twas fabulous.

After I checked in at 2pm I walked towards the store that had the little wall hanging I saw a few days ago. I stopped for a brief visit at an old cemetery in the middle of downtown Halifax. It was so old I couldn't really read the gravestones. When I entered the store I immediately noticed that the wall hangings I liked weren't in the same spot and I had a little panic. That's when I knew that if they still had them, I needed to buy one. Which I did. I also bought a card of a clothesline watercolor painting. All around PEI and Nova Scotia there are lots of colorful clotheslines. I wanted to try and snap a photo of a good one but never had the opportunity. So framing this card will be just as good. The shop also had a book about the local clothesline culture.

Next I went and had coffee and read my book some more. People watched as well. It is so much nicer walking around Halifax on a sunny day. People were actually out and about, compared to when we walked around a few days ago when it was raining and desolate.

I then headed over to a watch repair shop before they closed to replace my battery. So nice to have my watch back in business.

Wandering a bit more I stopped at a bench and read a few more chapters. I was right by a Boston Pizza chain. While I've mainly seen Bruins jersey wearing fans around, this restaurant had used black tape to cross out 'Boston' on all their doors and wrote in marker 'Vancouver'. They even changed the 'B' to a 'V' in the logo, making it 'Vancouver's Pizza' for the finals.

Having only had a muffin and coffee, at around 4pm I decided to just hold out and wait for Jane's to open for dinner. Canadians eat pretty early; Jane's is open for dinner from 5-9pm. Last night I had a hard time deciding between two dinner options, and all day today as I walked by restaurants I'd peak at the menu to see if anything sounded enticing for later. Nothing seemed as good as Jane's. It was a bit of a walk to the outskirts of town and totally worth it. While a car is pretty much necessary to get around the last few provinces, it was nice to walk all day today. I had another great meal at Jane's. They placed me in the exact same seat I had last night. The other 3 patrons eating dinner on the early side were all sitting by themselves as well, so I fit right in.

Speaking of fitting in, it has been nice to not be a noticeable tourist, both appearance and language wise.

After dinner I walked around the citadel. The locals use the lawns as if it were a regular park. I walked by the common as well where there were several intramural games going on. Lots of soccer, softball, and football. Halifaxians are very active. I walked by lots of joggers, boot camp groups, horseback riders, and several full tennis courts.

I'm now taking a little horizontal break in the hostel before heading over to the Halifax Alehouse to watch game 4. Go Canucks!

When I get home I'll shower and get dressed into my flight attire. Alarm is already set for 3:30am when I'll walk over to the nearby Westin and hop on the Airporter bus.

Canadian adventure to-be-continued in Vancouver in August.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

6 foot 2 with eyes of blue

First stop today was to visit the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. But once we got there and realized that it was free from 5:30-8pm on Tuesdays, we figured it best to save the $30 and come back later.

So we hopped back into the car and drove to Peggy's Cove - a cute little village town. Population ~35 people year round. It's a town that has about three souvenir shops, two art galleries, and one restaurant. After snapping some photos at the lighthouse and walking through the main souvenir shop we had a late lunch and enjoyed some local brew. It started sprinkling a bit, but overall it was a nice day compared to what the forecast predicted.

All throughout PEI and Nova Scotia we've seen tons of lobster traps - both on land and the buoy markers in the water. Curious as to what bait they use to get the lobsters to walk in I just Googled it. Apparently it is usually a piece of fish or chum. Chum consists of fish parts and blood. Delicious.

At the restaurant where we had lunch the table next to us ordered lobster. When the waitress brought over the three live lobster for them to review, they sent them back for larger lobster. When those came back they snapped photos before they were plummeted into boiling water. I couldn't help but be sad. Even after Megan called them the cockroaches of the sea, it was still sad for me.

We wanted to drive to Lunenburg for a short visit, but couldn't fit it in the fun packed day. So we headed back towards Halifax and were stopped for a bit as a little family of raccoons with cute little babies crossed the road. Then we drove up the Bedford Basin to Prince's Lodge. Prince's Lodge was named for the estate Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, resided in while in Halifax in the 18th century. In 1794, Prince Edward arrived to serve in Halifax with his French mistress Julie St. Laurent. The old estate mainly now makes up the Hemlock Ravine Park which has a heart shaped pond known as Julie's pond, constructed by the Duke for his mistress. It had two male mallards and about six female mallards that were clearly used to being fed. They followed us around and were very cute. Made my day. I definitely need to have a pond with a mallard couple when I grow up.

The only building that is still standing from the estate is the music room - a dome shaped structure. We couldn't get too close to it because apparently it is a private residence now.

Then we drove back to the maritime museum for our free entrance. It was entertaining, with the special exhibit about gay Navy sailors of the 1900s which I found impressive, and the Titanic exhibit. Many of the victims from the Titanic are buried in Halifax. While it was a interesting 30 minutes, I'm sure glad we didn't pay $30.

After the museum we went to the Alexander Keith's brewery and sat at the bar. We tried the sampler first - my favorites being the amber and the dark. I got a pint of the amber. We were all entertained by the kilt wearing bartender. Once he knew it was Megan's birthday he decided to pour us all a shot of his specialty which he calls '6 foot 2 with eyes of blue', which is what he is. After our shots and pints, Carol asked if we could buy the pint glass for the birthday girl. Without knowing my klepto history, the girl waitress said "well, if you have a big purse you are all set". And then we asked the bartender if that was ok, and he said he was going to walk to the other side of the bar and what he didn't see didn't happen. So all three of us pocketed our pint glasses. Pretty amusing. Free souvenirs are the best.

Then we went over the Jane's On The Common restaurant, which was recommended by a Halifax policeman that Carol waited on in Maine. When we told the brewery bartender we were going there he couldn't stop raving about the food, so we were pretty excited. It was the first time in a long time where I had quite a few delicious vegetarian options. It was a great dinner.

Afterwards we walked to the fountain on the common which has lights that change color around the fountain.

Then we drove home and had some quality time with Cocoa. She's adorable but not the friendliest lab I've ever met. We pet her for quite a bit and the woman behind the desk threw her treats for a few tricks. Carol even joined in on the trick/treat entertainment. While I want a dog so badly, playing with other pets makes me miss my kitties so much!

We asked the hotel restaurant for three wine glasses so we could enjoy our champagne and two bottles of wine in style, instead of in paper cups. Once we popped open the champagne, upon birthday girl's request we played JLo's new song - On The Floor - and drank every time she said 'On the floor'. Turns out she says it 24 times. We were hoping it was going to be 26 times for Megan's birthday.

My camera is officially on it's death bed. The screen has started to flicker and there is a fuzzy spot in the right hand corner that is not part of the lens. Am hoping the photos will be ok. It looks like the last trip for my cute little blue Nikon. Sad times.

Overall great day. Great night.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Halifax

We drove into Halifax and spent the day walking around. Mostly in the rain. Supposed to rain all day tomorrow as well.

It's nice to be back in a city. In the grand scheme of cities Halifax is pretty tiny, but after being in NB and PEI it feels huge.

Before heading out for the day I wanted to give some love to Cocoa but she was in the employee break room begging and hoping for snacks. When we got back at night she was doing the same. I hope I get to see her tomorrow. I may have to pick up some scooby snacks to get her attention.

After a delicious Thai lunch we drove to the Public Gardens for a stroll, which is when it started raining. Walking back towards downtown and the Halifax Harbor we hopped in and out of shops to avoid the rain as much as we could. And window shopping is always fun. I found a little art piece that I'm going to think about and see if I still want it on Wednesday. It's a traditional rug hooking made by a couple in their 70s who have been hooking for 60 years. Hooking rugs, not turning tricks. Well at least I hope not.

While at the waterfront we spotted a Cow's ice cream shop - advertised as the best in Canada. It was mighty tasty. They didn't have little tables inside so we huddled under a little awning and enjoyed the rainy scenery of the canal between Halifax and Dartmouth.

A few fun facts:
1) Donairs - a variation of the doner kebab is a rolled up sandwich that originated in Halifax. Carol decided to try one in PEI and had two bites before throwing it away. But there are signs for them everywhere, so we're assuming she just got a bad one. If they have a vegetarian variety I'm destined to get one tomorrow.
2) Alcohol - is pretty expensive here. It's also only sold in liquor stores. I've been on the wagon the last two days, just not feeling it. But I'll have to hit the booze again tomorrow in celebration of Megan's birthday. Want to try some locally brewed beer.
3) Hockey - we're gearing up to watch the 3rd game and have seen lots of Bruins signs and fans in the last three provinces. Finding that odd, I was excited to see that the little newspaper that the hotel set outside our door this morning had an article on the front page about that. The Bruins have a large fan base here because of family ties and historic north-south loyalties. Wonder how the Canucks feel about that. I'm still secretly rooting for them. The article also mentioned the interesting tidbit that before each game the Nova Scotia Transport Minister drops his front false teeth in his Bruins beer mug - part of his pre-game ritual. Interesting.
4) Boston love - apparently people also call Halifax a small Boston. We saw that a bit today while walking around. Best part was when Megan spotted a Cheers. Since it's not legit I bet they don't know everybody's name.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Lighthouse galore

We spent most of the day in the car exploring the island. We did get lost. The maps that we have and the road signs were not the most intuitive.

After checking out we got into the car and drove a whole 5 feet out of the parking lot before we spotted a large indoor flea market across the street. Minor detour. I got a vintage looking Coke pint glass that is in both English & French (like everything in Canada). Not a bad 50 cent purchase. Carol scored some plates and a little rooster planter, and Megan sported a new shawl she got there most of the day for warmth. It's cold here - ranging in the 40s and 50s throughout the day.

Our tourist route focused on the east side of the island in King's County since we entered and slept in Queen's County. We did most of the Points East Coastal Drive. The highlights were the red sand and cliffs, and the lighthouses. One particular worth mentioning is the Cape Bear lighthouse where the first distress signal of the Titanic was heard before it sank near Newfoundland.

While there are no deer or moose on PEI, we did see two foxes. One of them was tame-ish and settled by an abandoned shed near the East Point Lighthouse with five of her babies playing and living underneath the shed. Quite cute.

PEI is the smallest of the Canadian provinces. Lots of farmland and beautiful scenery. Not too touristy either which is nice. We didn't make it up to where Anne of Green Gables tourist central is. I don't know if I've read that or not, so may have to pick up a copy.

We saw lots of ravens today and I was kind of baffled why we didn't see lots of seagulls. Then we started noticing that the seagulls were all grazing in the red soil potato fields. Something delicious in the soil apparently.

Speaking of food - Carol was determined to get mussels today. Once we finally found a gas station (we were getting desperate), we spotted Rick's Fish N' Chips and Seafood House across the street. Score. Apparently the mussels were delicious. Megan was bummed that they were out of the lobster roll so she got a fish sandwich. The only vegetarian lunch item was a veggie burger, that they were out of as well. So I got a not very good side salad for lunch. Second time that has happened on this leg of the trip. Hopeful that I'll be able to eat better in Nova Scotia!

Speaking of which we just arrived in Nova Scotia. We're staying a bit outside of Halifax at a Best Western on Chocolate Lake. When I booked the hotel they had a cute chocolate lab on the website. It brought smiles to my face when I checked in and there was an adorable chocolate lab snoozing behind the desk. Pleasant surprise. Will be sure to pet Cocoa tomorrow.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Prince Edward Island

Today we headed first to Boiestown, a tiny rural community that houses the Central New Brunswick Woodsmen's Museum. It was a stop on our adventure because of family history with the museum. The woman that was working there was very nice and chatty. Talked to us about our family and people she knew, and then brought over a man that, after Carol spoke with his wife on his cell phone, we found out is related to us as well. The museum is several buildings, including sample woodsmen cottages, a bunch of old machinery etc. In one of the museum displays there were two wood carved items that my great-grandmother donated to the museum, that her father made. A wooden chain link and a gum box. The museum grounds also has a trout pond. We fed the trout. They seemed happy. No ducks in the pond, to my disappointment.

While at the museum we saw photos and information about the Priceville Footbridge and its collapse in 1939 that killed three people. Carol and I walked across part of the bridge, but with the windy cold weather and knowing the history, we didn't walk the whole thing. Megan stayed in the car. She's terrified of bridges.

Then we drove to Doaktown, another tiny village in rural New Brunswick on the Miramichi river. Our visit to that town was for the Atlantic Salmon Museum, a museum that Louise Bamford and her sister Katherine were heavily involved in. I'm not really sure why a type of fish deserves a museum, but the family connection made it cool. The aquarium wasn't open yet for the season; that would have been nice to see. We asked the girl working there if she knew were Louise and Katherine used to live. A photo of the house is on the cover of The Bamford Saga so we were prepared to drive around, but she knew exactly where to direct us to. I guess in a small town it's easy to be famous. After we snapped a few photos of the house we wanted to find the cemetery where the sisters are buried. Carol went into a convenient store to ask, and two of the other patrons piped up. One mentioned that Louise was his favorite teacher. The other shared that he's the grounds keeper for the cemetery so he escorted us over there. I didn't realize that Louise passed away recently (2008). Katherine died in 1989, just before the publishing of the book. I could have complained directly to the source if I had known beforehand that I was excluded from the book.

Leaving Doaktown we did a photo drive-by of the Homestead Inn, a B&B that is owned by a Bamford.

We had Sunday-Wednesday night booked in Halifax, and left tonight open to see where the day took us and where we might want to lay our heads tonight. Early afternoon we decided we wanted to check out Prince Edward Island. We drove up here and over the 8-mile long Confederation Bridge, which is the world's longest bridge over ice-covered water. Our first little town to visit and see if we could find a hotel was Victoria. The town consists of four blocks, and according to Wikipedia the population in 2006 was 77 people. We took a few photos, hopped back in the car and headed east towards Charlottetown. We ended up stopping in a town beforehand at a Super 8, but I have no idea what the name of the town is.

I have to keep reminding myself that we're in another country. The main difference I've noticed is that instead of Dunkin' Donuts they have Tim Hortons. First time going to one of those, it was good. I did get my Dunkin fill in Maine - always a necessity when I visit the east coast.

Fun wildlife of the day included one turkey, one fox, and one deer.

We're watching game 2 of the Stanley Cup final in the hotel at the moment. While in Maine I was rooting for the Bruins, but now in Canada I feel like I should be rooting for the Canucks.

Tomorrow we're going to explore the island, with the plan of getting lost, and then head to Nova Scotia.

Saturday, June 4, 2011

Quebec to Maine to New Brunswick

Right before handing over out passports to the border police entering Maine we realized that none of us were born in the U.S. Turns out I was the only one that made their sketch radar peak. They asked me several questions and asked for another form of ID. Apparently the photo that comes up looks vastly different from the photo in my passport.

Once we entered Maine I mentioned that I saw no deer while in upstate New York (which is crazy), and Carol and Megan were saying they haven't seen deer or moose in a long time when BAM! - we saw 6 moose! They were all about the same size, pretty small and so cute. Took plenty of photos.

We had two nights of watching slides with my grandparents during this visit. One of the nights we looked at their photos from when they were in Italy (1959), Spain & Portugal (1978). Was fun to see and recognize some of the main sites. While my grandmother is having trouble with her short-term memory, she busted out lots of stories and anecdotes from their travels.

Today we drove from Greenville to Bangor to pick up a rental car, and then drove from Bangor to New Brunswick. The Canadian officer at this border was the nicest I have ever experienced. He didn't look at our passports and had a chit-chat style with all his routine questions he needs to ask.

We decided to first visit Frederickton, the capital of New Brunswick. Tomorrow we're heading to a few spots where our family (mom's side) stems from. In preparation for our trip we talked to my grandparents, my grandmother's sister, and during the trip we'll reference "The Bamford Saga", a detailed family tree reference book that was published in 1989 by Louise Bamford, my second cousin four times removed. Whatever that means. It was 20 years of research on her part and it includes info from 1764 to 1989. Unfortunately, there is something seriously wrong with page 106. There are a few subtle typos that I can live with, like my mom's middle name, and where some of my cousin's were born. What I cannot live with is the fact that my sister and I are not mentioned! My three aunts are mentioned, with their respective kids listed underneath them. And since three of my cousins are younger than me I know it's not a year thing. My dad's parents are even mentioned. Hmmm. Editing needed.

Frederickton is a pretty sleepy little town at the moment. I imagine it gets a little busier during the summer, but right now it's a bit ghost town-ish. Very quaint and cute though.

The itchy mosquito bites I have literally from head to toe remind me why I love the west coast.

I've been visiting Maine and specifically Moosehead Lake my whole life, but it still gets me awestruck. Beautiful state. "The way life should be".

I'm not going to lie - I love leaving the country and turning my phone off. I am, however, not too pleased that my watch battery is dead. I don't glance at it too often while on vacation, but it is starting to bug me.