Sunday, April 17, 2011

Sabado en Madrid

I have settled into hostel #2 - MuchoMadrid. It's on Gran Via and I can already tell it's going to be pleasant night's sleep. Los Amigos was on the 4th floor above Calle Arenal which is a large pedestrian street - so there was noise all night long. Not that I minded too much because of my ear plugs. I was also in a large room where the last few nights people would come in at 6am from partying all night and be quite loud trying to stumble into their bed. Gran Via is a busy street but my room faces a courtyard, I'm on the 7th floor, and hopefully I won't have any roommates in this 3 bed room. The little lady at the front desk is quite adorable. She doesn't speak any English and I managed to understand most of what she said. She gave me a map and circled some of the sites for me. Nice because the map in my book isn't too detailed so I've been winging it when it comes to finding places. I was too stubborn to buy a detailed street map - imagine that. Me stubborn. Another part that's nice about this place is that there are several individual bathrooms in the hallway with a shower.

Anyways, I then went to the El Corte Ingles - a huge department store that also has a supermarket. I picked up some fresh bread, brie, and some fruit and walked to the Parque del Retiro. I LOVE this park. It's so nice. If I lived here I would come here all the time. There is a lake with paddle boats that you can rent by the hour and tons of vendors and tourists which isn't my cup of tea. But off to the side there are lots of trees, gardens, statues, and little grassy areas sectioned off where you can sit and chill out, have a picnic etc. I parked myself under a tree, leaned up against the trunk, selected some relaxing music on my ipod and enjoyed the afternoon. There was no one else in my grassy area for a while. Just me and the birds. But then two teenagers parked themselves right in my line of sight, laid down a blanket and jumped on each other. They luckily came up for air after a while and had a picnic. Too funny.

I didn't want to leave the park, but thought I should cross something else off my list, so I went to the Centre de Arte Reina Sofia museum which is free on Saturday afternoons. It's a contemporary art museum that is much less daunting than the Prado. And since it's not prime-time tourist season yet there was no line here either. Fabulous. I had a nice time wandering around, and was most excited to see paintings by Dali and Picasso. The most famous in the museum being Picasso's Guernica. People were taking photos throughout the entire museum. The art police would yell at them some of the time, but mostly they got away with it. Idiots.

Once I was done checking out the art I strolled back to my hostel without a map! I love staying in a place long enough that I can kind of get around. I basically knew that I needed to head west and hoped that I'd come across landmarks that I recognized, which I did.

As far as tonight goes, Casa Patas never got back to me which is a good thing because I forgot tonight is a big futbol night! I'm heading back to my first hostel to meet up with a girl that I met this morning. We're going to find a bar somewhere and watch the Real Madrid/Barcelona game (that starts at 10). I did meet a tourist that is actually going to the game - she paid 600 euros. So even if they weren't sold out, there's no way I'd fork over that kind of money. I wanted to ask her why she was staying in hostels if she was willing to pay that kind of money to watch a soccer game. I decided to keep my mouth shut.

Then tomorrow morning before I check out of this place and head to my 3rd Madrid home, I'm going to El Rastro - a large flea market held every Sunday. Pretty excited about that.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Walk. Stop. Read. Repeat.

I spent most of this morning booking my next hostels. While I really wanted to stay at the Rising Cock in Lisbon, I settled for a more boring named hostel with the same rating but much cheaper.

I've decided that I think the reason why Madrid & Barcelona have had lots of bookings is because of Semana Santa leading up to the Easter holiday.

I returned back to the Malasana neighborhood today for lunch to a vegetarian restaurant highly rated in my guide book. It has a regular menu, but every day of the week they have a three course meal option of a different country. Today's menu was from Morocco. It was the best meal I've had in months. A chickpea appetizer with garlic and onions. A delicious salad with dates, nuts, and oranges. Followed by tasty couscous with pumpkin and other veggies, and a little pastry for dessert. It was so good & filling that I'm in no need for dinner tonight. I tried to go to this restaurant yesterday for lunch but it's so popular that they require reservations. It was worth the wait.

Then I headed over to the Plaza de Espana - a very nice plaza with trees, sculptures, fountains, and a bunch of benches. Read a bit on a park bench.

Next I decided to sit and read for a bit in the Sabatini gardens.

Followed by some more outdoor fun at Casa de Campo. I took the little gondola across the park mainly to check out the views. It's the largest park in Madrid with lots of bike and running paths, picnic tables, a huge lake, playgrounds, a zoo and aquarium, an amusement park etc. I took the gondola over to the middle, read my book for a bit, and then took it back.

Then I laid down in the grass near the Templo de Debod on the Parque de la Montana with lots of local teenage kissy couples and read my book. Ah to be that age and in love. Once my legs started getting itchy from the grass I wandered back towards the Palacio Real and read a bit more and people watched on a park bench.

I decided before returning to the hostel I should go to the Corral de la Moreria, which claims to be the best flamenco show in the world, and see if I could get a ticket for this weekend. I think this was my best Spanish conversation yet! Unfortunately bad news though - they are sold out until after I leave. SO I just tried to make a reservation online with another flamenco spot, Casa Patas, which is actually rated higher in my guidebook. We'll see what they say.

A few random thoughts/observations/anecdotes:
1) I've decided that I have globalization double standards. I love the fact that I can shop at Zara, Mango, and Desigual in San Francisco. But I don't love the fact that there are American stores and fast food joints here - most notably McDonald's, Burger King, Taco Bell, and Starbucks.
2) I find it amusing that there is a Dunkin Coffee chain here. Same typeset and coloring as Dunkin Donuts, and they do sell donuts, but it's not part of the legit chain.
3) Wandering around earlier today I stopped in the shade to reference my map. Two little old ladies veered out of their way to come over to me and ask what calle (street) I was looking for. So sweet.
4) Most people probably think I'm married cause I wear a simple band on my right hand, which is how the Spanish roll.
5) There is an Irishman in his mid-60s in my room that likes to corner people into a conversation. I managed to stay out of his way until last night. Turns out he lives in Morocco and comes to Madrid and stays at this same hostel every few months for a few weeks. Why? Simply because he says he doesn't get to have stimulating conversation there like he does here. I then asked him why he doesn't travel to other places. He seemed pretty closed minded that nowhere is as cool as Madrid. And then he told me that he hated the Toni Morrison book I just started reading. I thanked him for sharing and managed to get myself out of that situation.
6) While the shops have been very tempting, I've managed to control myself!

Friday, April 15, 2011

Tapas tour

I just got home from a fabulous tapas tour with Corey. A great host he is. We went to a few of his favorite spots around town - so not only a food tour but also a walking tour. We finished the evening of eating off with churros con chocolate. You dip the churros in chocolate sauce - they have lots of different flavors. I got chocolate with a hint of cinnamon. Amazingly delicious but oh so rich.

So I just have to share this tidbit. As a not-so-closet romantic, in my head I thought how great it would be if when I got back there would be a note on my bed from Andrew. But I realize that's crazy thinking and things like that never happen. WELL when I got back to my room there was a long note from him with his email address. Love it.

Portunol

After my siesta yesterday I decided to go on one of the neighborhood walks in my guidebook. It's similar to the city walks I do in San Francisco - basically a route is set for you with info of sights along the way. A great way to see the less touristy locations. This walk was called Santa Ana: Barrio de las Letras. The hood is apparently the most bohemian one in Madrid. Walked by where Cervantes house used to be, the Teatro Espanol, a Basilica, a famous convent, and 9 other sites less cool to mention.

Afterwards I came back to the hostel and went out on the town with one of my roommates, a very cute Aussie named Andrew. He's been travelling for 10 months! He took me to El Tigre, a hopping joint that when you order a drink they bring you a plate full of tapas for free. It was on my list of places to check out so that was cool. He was pretty stoked when I told him he could have all the meat tapas. Luckily there were a few options for me as well. Although I'm pretty sure I accidentally ate something meaty. I survived.

After a few beers there we wandered to another spot and shared a pitcher of sangria and a delicious tapa of brie cheese and jam on bread. Sat outside and enjoyed great people watching. To round out the evening we went to Plaza Santa Ana (which I recognized I had been to earlier on my walk) and had a beer. Once the venue was ready to close down they gave everyone plastic cups, so we walked back to our hostel beer in hand.

It was a fun night, got in at 2am. Probably will be one of my latest nights out, unless I'm with a hostel friend. Andrew is leaving tonight for Peru (sigh).

When walking around it doesn't feel like I'm surrounded by other tourists which is nice, and very few people speak English. My Portunol (blend of Portuguese & Espanol) seems to be working out nicely. However, I rarely understand the reply because they speak too quickly.

Other than that very chilly first morning here, the weather has been perfect. Not too hot and not too cold. Perfectly pleasant.

This morning I had breakfast with Andrew near the Plaza de la Puerta del Sol. Then I went on the second neighborhood walk of the Chueca & Malasana neighborhoods which are famous for their shopping and nightlife. Chueca is the gay district and Malasana has more of an alternative/grunge crowd. So says the guidebook.

In one of the little parks I finished my first novel and people watched. I'll donate my book to the hostel, and I already acquired another one that Andrew gave me. Madrid is full of dogs, it seems that most of the locals walking around have a dog in tow. As I was reading I heard a collar/leash sound and a snort. I assumed it was a dog with a nasal issue, but once I looked up it was most definitely a little black pig with a bright pink harness and collar. Very cute and interesting to watch the pig interact with dogs. But once one of the dogs started barking at her very loudly she freaked out and started squealing until her owner picked her up. Was pretty funny.

In a few hours I'm meeting up with Corey, one of my cousin Mike's friends who lives here. Looking forward to some drinks, tapas, and finding out more local sites that he thinks I should check out. While I dig guidebook suggestions, I also want to make sure I do things a bit off the beaten path.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Prado not Prada

The mixed dorm has been fine, although I don't know how I feel about the mixed bathroom. Haven't talked to anyone in the hostel yet, besides the quirky guy at the front desk. It's kind of nice actually, to be around people but not having to constantly chit-chat and share your story to everyone.

Speaking of hostels - I thought that since I'm here before high tourist season that I didn't have to worry about making reservations too far in advance. I was wrong. A lot of the hostels are booked for Friday and Saturday nights in both Madrid and Barcelona. So I'm staying at 3 hostels in each city. While I'm bummed I'll have to waste time checking in and out of places, it might be fun to see the hostels and stay in other parts of each city.

All of my roommates (there are 8 of us) went to bed at a reasonable time last night (around midnight). I was somewhat surprised as I assumed that they'd be out until the wee hours doing as the locals do. While I'd love to get that full experience in, I don't want to waste any of my days here sleeping.

To end my day yesterday - after a fabulous siesta I went back to the Plaza Mayor to listen to a swing band (they were setting up when I was there earlier). Was fun to listen to that for a while. Then I went to one of the cafes for dinner that was recommended by one of my guide books. It was on the Plaza de Oriente, so as I sat outside my view was of the Royal Palace and the Opera house. I got the vegetarian sandwich which was interesting - hard-boiled egg, lettuce, green beans, pickles, and mayonnaise. I wanted to get tapas but they were all meat-focused. I hope I'll find a place soon that has veggie friendly ones as well.

This morning I got up bright and early and headed to the Museo del Prado. Spent all morning soaking in the paintings of Velazquez, Goya, Bosch, among tons of others. Was pretty amazing, and exhausting. So to give my legs and mind a rest I went over to the Botanical Gardens next door, walked around a bit and parked myself on a bench and read my novel. Was quite peaceful.

Little fact: The symbol of Madrid is a bear and a madrone tree - it's pretty cute and everywhere.

Now it's time for today's siesta. It's amazing how easy it is to get used to the timezone and local practices. :)

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Arrival in Madrid

I slept most of the flight to JFK and then had the perfect amount of time to grab a snack and hop onto the next flight to Madrid. I barely remember that flight, was so tired! I have mad skills when it comes to sleeping on any type of transit. Definitely a quality I love to have.

Anyways, once we landed in Madrid I zipped through customs & immigration, picked up my bag and headed to the metro station in the airport. I transferred to 3 trains to get to the stop closest to my hostel.

It was chilly when I walked out of the metro station at 8am. I might have to pick up another layer or two for the nights and early mornings. The street was very quiet with very few people around. Some folks walking their dogs, some on their way to work, and a few delivery trucks unloading. I found the Los Amigos hostel easily and was able to leave my bag there and wander around the city until I could check-in after 1pm.

Once I got back outside I decided to just walk a bit without a map, so that whatever I came across was a surprise.

Here is what I stumbled across sans map:
1) Plaza de Oriente - which has nice gardens, statutes, and fountains.
2) Opera House - I checked out the schedule and won't be able to attend an opera, but I do want to find some sort of show to go to while in Madrid. Or maybe a soccer game!
3) Royal Palace - I walked by a massive building with guards outside, figured it was something official but didn't want to look it up on my map just yet. When I turned the corner there was a line of about 20 obvious tourists. Still without knowing what this building was I decided to get in line. Then I noticed a small sign that labeled it as the entrance to the Royal Palace tours. Perfect! I had time to kill. So I took the 1.5 hour audio tour of the palace. A swanky place for sure with lots of great sculptures, frescoes, and amazing ornate furniture.

My two favorite parts of the palace were the armory where you could see all the elaborate weapons and armor for people and their horses, and the pharmacy where they used to make and store the medicine for the royal family.

Then at the end of the tour leaving the armory there were two peacocks just chilling outside. Random and very pretty.

Once I left the gates I sat on a bench in between the Royal Palace and the Catedral de la Sra de la Almudena to check out my book and see where else I might like to see that's not too far from my hostel. I decided to walk to the Plaza Mayor.

The Plaza Mayor wasn't as grand or large as I thought it would be with that kind of name, but it was nice. I sadly didn't want to relax there for too long because people around the plaza were selling these obnoxious little whistles that make weird sounds. It's all the rage with the teen-late twenties male tourists. It reminded me of the World Cup vuvuzela obnoxiousness. Hopefully if/when I go back there it won't be as bad. Or I might have to whip out my earplugs or ipod.

I did get a cofffe and sit in the sun for a bit at the plaza and came up with my next adventure - to get train tickets.

I walked to the Atocha train station and it took me a while of observing to figure out what was going on. There were so many different lines, numbers, color-coding and acronyms. Proud that I figured it out after some time of watching, instead of asking someone. You can either buy same-day tickets (certain lines) or you grab a ticket and wait until your number is called for buying advance tickets. I suddenly missed the ticket vending machines all over Italy. I whipped out my novel and read several chapters before my number was called.

Booked the train trips in Spain, and then I need to figure out how to get from Spain - Portugal and back. We'll worry about that in a few days.

By this point it was a little after 2pm, so I walked back to the hostel, checked-in, took a shower, and now am lying on my bed typing this blog entry. Again, love the netbook. There are two other guys in here doing the same. This is my first time in a "mixed" dorm. I haven't seen a female yet, but I'm pretty sure the pink polka dot and bear socks that are hanging on someone's bed drying will belong to a female.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Spain & Portugal

I just arrived at SFO and am very excited about my next adventure. I am also excited about getting some shut-eye on the plane. With class all weekend, three wonderful visitors, a surprise paper I had to write on Saturday night, and anxiety about packing, I'm exhausted.

Two things are already drastically different from my Italy trip and I feel so much more prepared and savvy. First off I am backpacking this time instead of hauling a suitcase. No more loud rolls down cobble stone streets, challenging trips up and down stairs, and impossible lifts into trains where I had to bat my eyes at people to help me. The nice folks at REI hooked me up with a backpack that is suited for travel, not backpacking in the wilderness. So it functions a bit more like a suitcase which will make it easier than a top-loading style backpack. I also packed very light - so proud!

Secondly, I purchased a cute little Dell netbook (tiny laptop). I already love it. I spent so much time in Italy hunting for internet cafes, spending too much money, and jealous of all the folks taking advantage of the free wifi at the hostels. If a hostel did have a computer that you could use, you usually had to sign up for 15 minute increments and it was so hard to get anything done. It'll not only be nice to update my blog and type up my entries on train rides etc, but it will also be helpful when I'm trying to figure out how to get from one city to the next and book hostels. And of course I'll probably watch TV shows online once I finish the four books I brought.

Other small items that I packed this trip after observing and learning from other travelers (which was a huge benefit of staying in a shared dorm) include: a clothesline, a sleeping bag insert/sheet thing, and a headlamp for reading at night and trying to look at a map when streetlights seem to be nonexistent. I've always wanted a headlamp. I was cool and I bought the kid version cause it was the simplest one they had. And it was pink.

So there you have it. All the little tips I learned from my Italy trip that I'm excited to take advantage of this trip (and the hopefully many more to come).