Italy: Goodbye, for now

I have loved everything about this trip-

the endless sights of Rome
the art of Florence
the sillyness of Pisa
the views of Cortona
the streets of Siena
the hikes of Cinque Terre
the spicyness of Milan
the beauty of Lake Como
the canals of Venice
the creativity of Murano
the steep stairwells of Positano
the grottoes of Capri
the ruins of Pompei
the shops of Sorrento
the balconies of Taormina
the humbleness of Siracusa
the beach of Fontane Bianche
the gelato of Ortygia
the convent hostel of Salerno

I thought after five weeks in Italy I would be able to cross it off my list and only see and explore other countries. Well, I have a feeling that the one coin I threw with my right hand over my left shoulder in the Trevi fountain will bring me back to Italy someday.

The Last Supper

Train to Rome from Salerno was not only on schedule, it was early. The air conditioning even worked, was a very fancy trip. So happy that my last day was in Rome. Once I dropped my stuff off at the Fawlty Towers hostel, I walked to the Spanish Steps, then walked down Corso and did some shopping. Bought a few scarves, which felt weird to do in this blistering heat but they will be very useful in SF. Strolled past the Pantheon, enjoyed the music in Piazza Navona. Actually the same band that I enjoyed weeks ago, so I bought their cd. Then I settled into a restaurant on a side alley from Piazza Navona.

Since it was my last supper, I decided to not eat all day. All I had was a piece of fruit, so that I could actually eat officially tonight by having the primo and secondi courses (I normally could only handle the primo). I didn't order an appetizer though, so it probably was not completely legit. My primo was Spaghetti Pomodoro, followed by my secondi of Melanzane Alla Parmigiana (Eggplant Parmesan), and then my cotorni (side dish) was Zuppa di Fagioli (bean soup). Enjoyed all of that with two glasses of Chianti. I ate at an odd time, it was a late lunch or early dinner, so I was one of very few eating. Which allowed me to become buds with the waiters Alberto & Pino. They were waiters but really should be comedians. They were sad when I asked for the check, so poured me another glass of wine on them, which I did not need but drank anyways. Pino offered to take me around Rome on his Vespa if I waited until he got off work. I sadly told him that I had to get to bed early because of my flight, but that would have been fun! Then I strolled to the Fontana di Trevi to have a gelato and enjoy the fountain from dusk to dark. Was really nice.

While I know it will be nice to be home, I am surprisingly a bit emotional to leave.

Back on the mainland

Today was uneventful in the tourist category. I will avoid venting and not talk about the 12 hour trip that was supposed to be 8. I will also not talk about the argument I had last night with a Dutch guy, who tested my patience mocking my lack of eating red meat, and continued by asking me what I was doing in Sicily if I didn't eat a lot of seafood. He tested my last nerve when he brought up the World Cup. That is when I gave it right back to him, shocked the entire table, and went to bed. But we won't talk about that. This country doesn't deserve venting. :)

What I will talk about is this cool hostel in Salerno. It used to be a convent, so has lots of character. Reminds me of when my parents and I stayed in a convent in northern Brasil one night.

Off to Rome in the morning. Of everywhere I have been, Rome is still my favorite. Assuming the train cooperates, I will arrive at 2pm and will have a full afternoon and evening of fun before I fly out on Monday.

Chillin in Sicily

This morning I walked to the farmers market on the Ortygia island and bought some produce. Then I met up with a guy from Los Angeles staying at the hostel and we walked around the Parco Archeologico Della Neapolis, one of the main tourist spots of Siracusa. It has a Greek theatre, a Roman amphitheatre and a really cool cave. Just got back to the hostel to take a siesta, and ran into the friendly Korean chef (Jung) who is trying to convince me to eat lunch with him. I think I draw the line at anchovies, but I'll probably sit with him and keep him company. Tonight is a lot of people's last nights here, am sure we'll get a big group to go out to dinner on Ortygia.

Speaking of dinner, last night was fun - a girl from my room and I went to dinner right in front of the Duomo. Was very cool all lit up. Then we walked around a bit. Bought a mixed cd off a guy on the street that will hopefully have a bunch of hit Italian songs that are being played everywhere, but I have a feeling it'll also have some stuff from home on there as well. Watched part of a marrionette puppet show. Lots of little kids sitting down watching, was sad I didn't have my camera on me. Watched the monkey puppet do the moonwalk to Smooth Criminal. Was the funniest thing I've seen in a while.

With the direct trains full it is going to take me two days to get back to Rome. So tomorrow am heading out bright and early to take the train, the ferry, and another train to Salerno. Then on Sunday up to Rome. Hopefully it will be an easy trip with few complications.

Fontane Bianche

I spent yesterday sunbathing and swimming at Fontane Bianche, a quick bus ride south of Siracusa. A beautiful sandy beach and bright blue water.

I noticed a few people covered in what looked like really thick white sunscreen. They were laughing and taking photos of each other. I just thought - strange Italians.

But then I saw more and more people walking by me with this weird stuff on. Then I remembered the name of the beach that I was on - Fontane Bianche. So I walked down what felt like the rabbit hole to see where they were coming from. There were tons of people on the end of the beach standing in the water smearing this substance from the rocks on their bodies. I tried looking it up quickly but didn't really find an explanation. I asked the owner of the hostel who is the bartender at night, and he said its some sort of soapstone that is a good exfoliant. Kind of cool. I was hesitant to do that though and rub all my sunscreen off. These last few days have been HOT. My guide book calls Siracusa a "cauldron in the summer".

Octopus & Squid Pasta

So, I was completely content with my late lunch and my apple for dinner. I sat at the hostel bar with a beer and my book. And somehow ended up at a dinner table of strangers, all travelling by themselves. There were three Dutch, a Korean, a Brit, and a Portuguese. Ages ranged from 20-69. Not sure how it happened, but it was a lovely unexpected dinner.

Once I accepted and sat down I was a bit mortified to see a pasta dish full of octopus & squid. What to do. I'm pretty sure I am allergic to shellfish. Well, with everyone there and feeling the sweet hospitality of these other hostel goers, I had to just eat it and see what happens. So far so good. The thought makes me nervous, but I think it is all in my head. The guy from Korea was the chef, he left his family to spend 3 months in Sicily eating and cooking, as he is going to open an Italian restaurant once he gets back. Which reminds me, one of my regrets while here is not taking a cooking class. Next time perhaps.

Siracusa & Ortygia

I'm staying at the LOL Hostel in Siracusa, 50m from the train station. It is so nice & clean. The staff is very helpful and friendly, and they have four computers, a kitchen and bar, and an outdoor garden patio. I need a key to get into my shared dorm, and I have a locker for the first time. This place is fabulous. I just wish the name was less cheesy (LOL as in "laughing out loud"). Written on the chalk board at the entrance is "29th in the world!". I assume that references some sort of rating as the 29th best hostel. Anyways, enough about the hostel.

I got here pretty late last night, because it seems to take super long to get anywhere in Sicily via the trains or buses. Most of the guide books do warn about that. My original plan was to stay here for two nights, then head to Agrigento for two nights, and then up to Palermo. However, since it takes so long to get anywhere I don't want to spend two full days on the train. SO I decided to stay put and booked two more nights at this hostel. While I am bummed not to get to those other spots, I like the thought of relaxing here by the beach. There are also plenty of sights to see in Siracusa and on Ortygia Island. Walked around Ortygia today (it's an island just over the bridge, you don't have to take a ferry which is nice). I parked myself on a platform full of other sunbathers. There was a stairwell to get into the water. No apparent beaches here, so am going to hop on a bus tomorrow to go to a sandy beach a bit south of here.

Very few people speak English which has been a nice change. It's more of a struggle, but a bit fun to try and communicate in Italian and using my Portuguese. All the others in my dorm are from other parts of Europe, mainly France.

Off to find something to eat and sit outside with my latest novel. It's such a nice feeling that I don't have to pack up and leave in the morning.