Yesterday we ventured to Cortona, a small hillside medieval town where Jenna studied abroad via the University of Georgia 14 years ago. It rained throughout the day, but it was a bit more manageable than a downpour. We would stop in for a glass of wine or to peruse a shop whenever it started to rain. Worked out well. Many of you may have heard of Cortona, as it is the setting of the novel and movie "Under The Tuscan Sun". There is a festival starting today in the town, so lots of tourists were heading that way because of it. We missed seeing Sting just by a few days.
We found the new campus and met up with Jenna's professor, who is now the director of the program. What a character he was, spicy and funny old man. He gave us a tour of the campus, seeing all the different art rooms really struck my creative chord. I wish I could stay in Tuscany just to paint. He asked me where I went to school, apparently they just had lots of St. Lawrence students. The UGA program is one that a lot of the smaller American schools piggy-back off their program.
We then went back into the little town and met up with Ivan, a shopkeeper that Jenna was friends with back in the day. He showed us around his store, which used to be a little Tabbacharia, but since then he has dug two stories down and has amazing art on the bottom two floors. He gave us the entire history of the building - how it used to be where pilgrims slept, where a baker used to work, and that when he started digging he found an old Etruscan well. In the well, he has a spotlight at the bottom with beautiful fish swimming in it, and one little salamander. So if you turn off the lights in the shop and turn on the spotlight in the well - gorgeousness. I got a great photo of it that I will share when I get back.
Jenna picked out a little watercolor in his shop that she wanted to buy. He told her it was a gift, and had me pick one out too. So nice. The one I picked was a typical Tuscany scene, and when he saw which one I chose he said it was painted after the road in the Gladiator. Apparently I need to watch that movie too.
We had Ivan call his cousin, Paola, who Jenna was close to during her time in Cortona. We planned to meet back at his shop at 6pm to see her. We decided to take a little stroll through the park beforehand. Before we left I got stuck in Ivan's bathroom, always fun. Apparently it happens quite often to the point where sometimes people need to slide the key under the door for him to open it from the outside.
We had a drink with Paola, I had my first Bellini ever. When I told her about the rest of my trip and route, she couldn't stop raving about Sicily. (Sal smile here) SO I have decided to change my itinerary a bit. While I wanted to go to Genoa, I think I'm going to skip Genoa and Ravenna, shorten my stays in Milan and Venice, and spend more time in Sicily. I've already decided I'm going to have to come back to Italy someday. Especially Tuscany, I really want to do a winery tour.
Well, I should probably go check on my laundry that I left in a machine down the street. We're going to shop a bit in town and then head to Siena for the day. Hope it doesn't rain!
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Negroni no good
Dinner last night was fun, our waiter was quite adorable after Jenna told him it was my birthday. He kept on repeating "Happy Birthday". I think he was practicing saying it. When it came time to dessert I asked him which was the better of two chocolate concoctions. He didn't reply and walked away with a smile. He brought both and treated us to them. Very nice.
Then we hit up the bar right next to our hotel. We ordered one Negroni to share, in case we didn't like it. Oh boy. It is all alcohol - Campari, Martini & Gin. Jenna took one for the team and drank it. I got a delicious Italian stout. About mid-way through our drinks I decided I wanted a birthday shot of Jager (yes, it is my favorite). Jenna refused to join me. I went back to the bar and asked the bartender if he would take a birthday shot with me. I also told him that the Negroni was intense. So he waved Jenna over, fixed her Negroni by pouring some orange juice in it, and then convinced her that they would both take half a shot of Limoncello with me. He treated us to those. These guys are nice! Dad, are you so proud right now?
Speaking of Jenna taking one for the team, she has been amazing. I ordered a dish that I assumed had no meat in it. I have learned never to assume. Luckily Jenna ordered a meatless dish so she swapped with me, even though she was really excited about her dish. And it was apparently way better than the one that I had ordered. She also lets me sit so that I never have to go backwards on the train. True friend that one.
This morning we headed to the Uffizi Gallery. Botticelli's Birth of Venus was what I was most excited about. After our audio tour we hit the cafe in the museum for a quick snack. Right before we were about to leave to head to the train station it started to downpour. I happen to love thunder storms so wasn't too bothered, except for the fact that I left my rain jacket at the hotel. We waited a bit but it wasn't letting up, so we walked back to the hotel and I got completely drenched. Jenna was more prepared with her jacket. I have to say, I a little bit enjoyed the walk. Got to the hotel, picked up my rain jacket, and it stopped raining. Too funny. Took it to Pisa with me just in case. It took us an hour by train to get to Pisa. We didn't take a guide book or map, we figured we could just follow the other tourists, which we did. It is also a pretty straight shot from the train station to the tower. We walked around for a bit, took photos of the original people posing like they are holding up the tower. Saw that you have to pay to get into everything in the square (cathedral etc). We wanted to go up the tower, until we found out it was 15 euros and the view isn't that great. On our way out we decided we should hit the bathroom. 30 cents to use it...Pisa was not my favorite, but I wasn't expecting it to be. Glad I can cross it off my list, been there done that. GOOD thing we paid those 30 cents, because it took us 3 hours to get back to Florence. Track trouble of some sort. Lots of little adventures along the way.
I can't believe it is almost 10pm, where do these days go?
Need to head to dinner. In Rome we were never worried about places closing, but Florence is very quaint, way more so than I was expecting. All of the restaurants close pretty early.
I may have to convince Jenna that we should go back to the pizza place by the Duomo. In general I don't want to go back to places, I want to also try something new - but that pizza was so good!
Then we hit up the bar right next to our hotel. We ordered one Negroni to share, in case we didn't like it. Oh boy. It is all alcohol - Campari, Martini & Gin. Jenna took one for the team and drank it. I got a delicious Italian stout. About mid-way through our drinks I decided I wanted a birthday shot of Jager (yes, it is my favorite). Jenna refused to join me. I went back to the bar and asked the bartender if he would take a birthday shot with me. I also told him that the Negroni was intense. So he waved Jenna over, fixed her Negroni by pouring some orange juice in it, and then convinced her that they would both take half a shot of Limoncello with me. He treated us to those. These guys are nice! Dad, are you so proud right now?
Speaking of Jenna taking one for the team, she has been amazing. I ordered a dish that I assumed had no meat in it. I have learned never to assume. Luckily Jenna ordered a meatless dish so she swapped with me, even though she was really excited about her dish. And it was apparently way better than the one that I had ordered. She also lets me sit so that I never have to go backwards on the train. True friend that one.
This morning we headed to the Uffizi Gallery. Botticelli's Birth of Venus was what I was most excited about. After our audio tour we hit the cafe in the museum for a quick snack. Right before we were about to leave to head to the train station it started to downpour. I happen to love thunder storms so wasn't too bothered, except for the fact that I left my rain jacket at the hotel. We waited a bit but it wasn't letting up, so we walked back to the hotel and I got completely drenched. Jenna was more prepared with her jacket. I have to say, I a little bit enjoyed the walk. Got to the hotel, picked up my rain jacket, and it stopped raining. Too funny. Took it to Pisa with me just in case. It took us an hour by train to get to Pisa. We didn't take a guide book or map, we figured we could just follow the other tourists, which we did. It is also a pretty straight shot from the train station to the tower. We walked around for a bit, took photos of the original people posing like they are holding up the tower. Saw that you have to pay to get into everything in the square (cathedral etc). We wanted to go up the tower, until we found out it was 15 euros and the view isn't that great. On our way out we decided we should hit the bathroom. 30 cents to use it...Pisa was not my favorite, but I wasn't expecting it to be. Glad I can cross it off my list, been there done that. GOOD thing we paid those 30 cents, because it took us 3 hours to get back to Florence. Track trouble of some sort. Lots of little adventures along the way.
I can't believe it is almost 10pm, where do these days go?
Need to head to dinner. In Rome we were never worried about places closing, but Florence is very quaint, way more so than I was expecting. All of the restaurants close pretty early.
I may have to convince Jenna that we should go back to the pizza place by the Duomo. In general I don't want to go back to places, I want to also try something new - but that pizza was so good!
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
From Rome to Florence
Our last night in Rome was fabulous. We went to dinner by the Spanish Steps, a restaurant mentioned in my guide book. We were seated at a cute little table and shortly afterwards two guys were seated at the table right next to us. They were speaking a mix of Italian and Spanish. The Italian leaned over and asked if he could suggest a dish, which he did. It was a red meat dish that Jenna said was indeed fabulous. We chatted throughout the dinner off and on. Found out that they had just met that day! Friends in common and the Spaniard was touring Italy. The Italian was very philosophical, spoke about art and culture and asked us what we really thought of Italians and Italy, he didn't want to hear "anything superficial". He also expressed that we had just made him realize how similar Italian and Americans really are, we seemed to have re-established his faith in Americans. After dinner and a gelato with the boys we said our goodbyes. Jenna and I were both in a bit of awe at how fun and random the evening was. Such great conversation. Gregory, if you read this - please do look us up if you ever are back in San Francisco!
The next morning, with a hesitant hand I packed up my belongings. But at least I will be back to Rome. For one night. We took a bus and metro to the train station. Before heading in to the station we stopped at Fawlty Towers, a hostel by the train station recommended by our friend Antonio at the Enjoy Rome tour office. I asked to see a room, it was nice! That reminds me I need to send them an email to reserve my room. A lot of places ask to do that, the ones that aren't set up for you to book online. Even if you call them, or are there in person, you have to email them to make the reservation.
Speaking of emailing hotels, we just booked our hotel in Cinque Terre, called Manuel's Guesthouse. In response to our email reserving the room, the hotel replied with directions from the closest train station. The end of the directions are too funny to not share:
"Almost immediately you will find a wide set of stairs to your left. Look up- the pink house with the balcony at the top is Manuel’s! Anyway, follow these stairs up, they turn to the right, you turn with them. Keep going.. When you reach number 39 on your left where the stairs are, you’ll find the writing ‘Proprietà Privata’ (Private property). This is Manuel’s. Go up the narrow stairway to the very top (his is the only house). There is a gate and 2 dogs. The dogs are harmless. Please close the gate behind you. Then yell ‘Manuel!’- he’ll come out and show you to your room."
I don't know about Jenna, but I am SO excited to yell 'Manuel!!!'. And of course to pet the harmless dogs.
Back to leaving Rome - it took us quite a while to figure out the train situation. Even though we have a Eurail pass, you have to get another ticket for each trip you take. Anyways, we both got windows seats on a very snazzy train. Yes, I just brought back the word snazzy.
Apparently it rained on the way to Florence. As much as I wanted to watch the gorgeous countryside go by, I couldn't keep my eyes open. It was quite a quick trip, we were on a high-speed train that made no other stops. For the short time I was awake, I read the section on Florence in my guide book, and the first chapter of my next novel - The Monster of Florence, true story about a serial killer here. Perhaps not the best story to be reading right now...but interesting so far.
We found our way to our hotel, which we chose because of its proximity to the train station. Our plan for the next 3 days is to take day trips to Pisa, Cortona, and Siena. Everything about our hotel is nicer than the one in Rome. Our toilet works! The only bummer is that we are on the 3rd floor, and the elevator only goes to the 1st floor. We managed. My suitcase will definitely be heavier on the way down, such great shopping here.
Yesterday we wandered across the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence - a pedestrian bridge filled with shops, mainly jewlery. Our plan was to go to the Boboli gardens and then to dinner. But our guide books failed to mention two things - how to get to the Boboli gardens and the fact that they are closed off by a wall. It took us a while to figure that out, and once we did the gardens were closed. So we headed to dinner which was fabulous! We were seated near about 30 Australian tourists, all in their mid-20s. I love the Australians, but I think I can speak for the rest of the restaurant that we were glad when they left. They left by all taking a shot of Limoncello together, you get the idea.
On our stroll back to the hotel, an art vendor Aurturo was working hard to get Jenna to share a bottle of wine with him by the river. I ruined his game when I walked over there after taking several pictures of the Duomo at night. She kindly declined but bought some of his art.
Today we got up bright and early and headed to the Gallery of the Accademia. The line wasn't too long, so our plan for the next few days is going to get up early and visit a museum before getting on the train for our day trip. The Gallery had a lot of great work, but it is definitely all shadowed by Michelangelo's David. My art teacher wasn't kidding, it is massive and so impressive. Once we were done soaking up the masterpieces, we went to soak up some divine pizza next to the Duomo. I love the cathedral here with the Duomo and bell tower (Campanile), the green, red, and white marble inlays almost look fake, like it is painted instead of marble.
After lunch we took a second stab at finding the Boboli gardens. I learned a long time ago that when in need ask for help, so I told a waiter "I need help!". He pointed us in the right direction. No signage indicates that you have to go through the Pitti Palace to get to the gardens. Anyways, once we finally got in we grew a bit flustered by getting turned around trying to find some of the sculptures and fountains we wanted to see in there. The solution? A map? Nope. We took a nice siesta under a tree and woke up refreshed and ready to tackle the rest of the gardens. We found what we were mainly looking for, which was obnoxiously right by the exit, a fountain of fat Bacchus riding a turtle.
Then we headed back to the center of town and perused some of the outdoor market stalls while they were closing up. We will definitely be heading back there.
We are now in present time. Sitting in an "internet point" and ready for dinner. How is it that these Italian days go by so quickly! I asked Gregory what the typical cocktail was here, so tonight is the night to try and find a Negroni. Apparently something with Campari, will report back.
All in all, a wonderful birthday spent in Florence.
Ciao!
The next morning, with a hesitant hand I packed up my belongings. But at least I will be back to Rome. For one night. We took a bus and metro to the train station. Before heading in to the station we stopped at Fawlty Towers, a hostel by the train station recommended by our friend Antonio at the Enjoy Rome tour office. I asked to see a room, it was nice! That reminds me I need to send them an email to reserve my room. A lot of places ask to do that, the ones that aren't set up for you to book online. Even if you call them, or are there in person, you have to email them to make the reservation.
Speaking of emailing hotels, we just booked our hotel in Cinque Terre, called Manuel's Guesthouse. In response to our email reserving the room, the hotel replied with directions from the closest train station. The end of the directions are too funny to not share:
"Almost immediately you will find a wide set of stairs to your left. Look up- the pink house with the balcony at the top is Manuel’s! Anyway, follow these stairs up, they turn to the right, you turn with them. Keep going.. When you reach number 39 on your left where the stairs are, you’ll find the writing ‘Proprietà Privata’ (Private property). This is Manuel’s. Go up the narrow stairway to the very top (his is the only house). There is a gate and 2 dogs. The dogs are harmless. Please close the gate behind you. Then yell ‘Manuel!’- he’ll come out and show you to your room."
I don't know about Jenna, but I am SO excited to yell 'Manuel!!!'. And of course to pet the harmless dogs.
Back to leaving Rome - it took us quite a while to figure out the train situation. Even though we have a Eurail pass, you have to get another ticket for each trip you take. Anyways, we both got windows seats on a very snazzy train. Yes, I just brought back the word snazzy.
Apparently it rained on the way to Florence. As much as I wanted to watch the gorgeous countryside go by, I couldn't keep my eyes open. It was quite a quick trip, we were on a high-speed train that made no other stops. For the short time I was awake, I read the section on Florence in my guide book, and the first chapter of my next novel - The Monster of Florence, true story about a serial killer here. Perhaps not the best story to be reading right now...but interesting so far.
We found our way to our hotel, which we chose because of its proximity to the train station. Our plan for the next 3 days is to take day trips to Pisa, Cortona, and Siena. Everything about our hotel is nicer than the one in Rome. Our toilet works! The only bummer is that we are on the 3rd floor, and the elevator only goes to the 1st floor. We managed. My suitcase will definitely be heavier on the way down, such great shopping here.
Yesterday we wandered across the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence - a pedestrian bridge filled with shops, mainly jewlery. Our plan was to go to the Boboli gardens and then to dinner. But our guide books failed to mention two things - how to get to the Boboli gardens and the fact that they are closed off by a wall. It took us a while to figure that out, and once we did the gardens were closed. So we headed to dinner which was fabulous! We were seated near about 30 Australian tourists, all in their mid-20s. I love the Australians, but I think I can speak for the rest of the restaurant that we were glad when they left. They left by all taking a shot of Limoncello together, you get the idea.
On our stroll back to the hotel, an art vendor Aurturo was working hard to get Jenna to share a bottle of wine with him by the river. I ruined his game when I walked over there after taking several pictures of the Duomo at night. She kindly declined but bought some of his art.
Today we got up bright and early and headed to the Gallery of the Accademia. The line wasn't too long, so our plan for the next few days is going to get up early and visit a museum before getting on the train for our day trip. The Gallery had a lot of great work, but it is definitely all shadowed by Michelangelo's David. My art teacher wasn't kidding, it is massive and so impressive. Once we were done soaking up the masterpieces, we went to soak up some divine pizza next to the Duomo. I love the cathedral here with the Duomo and bell tower (Campanile), the green, red, and white marble inlays almost look fake, like it is painted instead of marble.
After lunch we took a second stab at finding the Boboli gardens. I learned a long time ago that when in need ask for help, so I told a waiter "I need help!". He pointed us in the right direction. No signage indicates that you have to go through the Pitti Palace to get to the gardens. Anyways, once we finally got in we grew a bit flustered by getting turned around trying to find some of the sculptures and fountains we wanted to see in there. The solution? A map? Nope. We took a nice siesta under a tree and woke up refreshed and ready to tackle the rest of the gardens. We found what we were mainly looking for, which was obnoxiously right by the exit, a fountain of fat Bacchus riding a turtle.
Then we headed back to the center of town and perused some of the outdoor market stalls while they were closing up. We will definitely be heading back there.
We are now in present time. Sitting in an "internet point" and ready for dinner. How is it that these Italian days go by so quickly! I asked Gregory what the typical cocktail was here, so tonight is the night to try and find a Negroni. Apparently something with Campari, will report back.
All in all, a wonderful birthday spent in Florence.
Ciao!
Monday, July 26, 2010
HIGH ON LIFE
...and vino.
The last few days have been glorious temperature wise, locals and tourists are all grateful for the break. One of our tour guides said that they've had lots of tourists fainting on them. It was 95 in our room at night one night, and 82 last night. Fabulous. There is drinkable water all throughout the city constantly running out of taps and fountains. The infrastructure is pretty amazing I think.
One thing I didn't know is that the Vaticano is its own country. That tour was amazing, to see all of the images that I learned about in art history classes. We walked through the Vatican museums, then through the Sistine Chapel which was PACKED, and then the tour ended at St. Peter's Basilica. All was breath-taking. Our tour-guide, Jeannette, was from Orlando, FL. She's been living in Rome for 6 years, she was quite great and learned all 27 of our names in the short time with her. The one thing that upset me during this tour was - you are allowed to take photos everywhere except for in the Sistine Chapel. We walked in to a sea of photo-takers and flashes. I asked our guide why they weren't getting yelled at. Apparently they usually have more security on staff but in the summer months with so many on vacation, they just can't control it all. Rude rude photo-takers. Once we said ciao to our guide, we took the elevator up to the lower roof of St. Peter's where you could walk around the mosaics. A mass had just started which we could observe from I don't know how high up, but pretty high! That was one of my favorite parts, both being next to all of those mosaics, as well as listening to the mass.
Then we walked up several flights of tiny stairwells with curved walls. Was neat. At the top you go outside and get to look out at Rome. We were able to spot quite a few attractions and our hotel area. I definitely feel like I have a good sense of where everything is which has been really nice. Jenna and I can walk around a bit without the map in hand. The tons of tiny cobblestone streets not on a grid are what get us all turned around, in a fun way.
The next day we went to the Borghese Gallery, which was very impressive. It has lots of sculptures by Bernini and paintings by Carravaggio. Then we walked back to the hotel, slapped on some more sunscreen and headed to the pool on the river! Was so nice and relaxing. Our feet definitely needed the break.
Yesterday was the Old and Ancient Rome tour. We met at Piazza Navona, then headed to the Pantheon which was closed to tourists for Sunday mass. Which was ok because I had been in a few days before. Next stop was the Trevi Fountain - legend is to throw coins with your right hand over your left shoulder. If you throw in one coin - you'll return to Rome, if you throw in two coins - you'll fall in love in Rome, and if you throw in three coins - you'll get married in Rome. I'll leave it up to your imagination how many I threw in. ;) Apparently it worked for Jenna, she threw in one coin 14 years ago. Then we went to the Piazza Venezia. The locals call the building there a wedding cake, it's white, huge, and doesn't really fit in with the rest of the structures nearby, mainly ancient ruins. Next and highlight of the tour was the Roman Forum and Colosseum. First we went to the Roman Forum, then the Colosseum, and then once our guide left us we snuck back in a secret way (that the guide told us about) to head up to the Palatine Hill, which has a great view of the Forum and is where the emperors used to live.
After a short break at the hotel to rest our feet & shower & read a few chapters of my book I can't put down (The girl with the dragon tattoo), we headed down to Trastevere, a local neighborhood with no tourist attractions. Felt like a completely different Rome, which was nice to experience. Then we went to the Isola Tiberina, the island in the middle of the river, for another glass of wine. We layed on bean bags gazing up at the almost full moon, was really nice and romantic. We have what we've termed a "sismance" going on (female version of bromance).
Little anecdotes:
1) One morning as Jenna and I were hunched over the air conditioner trying to fix it, I looked out the window, and to my surprise there was a naked older Italian man just peering out the window. He had no tan lines and the windowsill was to his knees... I almost waved but decided not to.
2) Every time we tell an Italian that we are from California, they start singing the Tupac song "California Love", clearly a hit here too.
3) I meant to get an international student card for discounts, but apparently it wouldn't have worked because you need to be a youngster student, under 26.
4) There are havaianas everywhere! Quite popular, which is one thing, but I can't believe how many people are wearing them all day long walking like this. The havaianas are worn by everyone - Italians, Brasilians, and plenty of other tourists. Back in the day you could tell when someone was from Brasil if they were wearing them. Not so much anymore.
5) Regarding sandals, for all of those who know about my broken-ness, my hip & feet are holding up nicely! Knock on wood.
6) Speaking of Brasilians - I think these two countries have a little love affair
going on. Brasilian flags on shirts, hats, bags everywhere. Most of them are Brasilian, but lots are American or European as well. Defintely not seeing any other flags worn so proudly. We also stopped at Bar Brasile for lunch after our Ancient Rome tour. None of the men that worked there spoke Portuguese.
7) I got to witness a woman get escorted away from the Trevi fountain after she hopped in it to cool off. I don't know where the Polizia were standing, but they started whistling and rushing over quite quickly. Apparently I need to watch the movie La Dolce Vita.
8) While we are both very aware of our bags at all times and both pretty well traveled, Jenna didn't get her credit card back after lunch one day. She only realized it later in the evening. We rushed out to ask our friendliest hotelier (Bart) to call the restaurant which he happily did. SO lucky that they had it. We went & picked it up the next day, which was fun because we got to visit our friend Antonio at the tourist office and ask a few more questions. That definitely made us even more aware of pretty much everything. Good reminder at the beginning of the trip.
Headed off to Tuscany tomorrow. We are going to stay in Florence, and take day trips to Siena, Cortona, and Pisa. I can't believe that a week has already gone by. Brings a little frown to my face, cause I think the next 4 weeks are going to fly by way too quickly. I will have two days at the end of my trip in Rome to do last minute shopping and site-seeing of anything I missed. But for now I think we've seen everything that we wanted to, so are headed back to the pool!
Ciao!
The last few days have been glorious temperature wise, locals and tourists are all grateful for the break. One of our tour guides said that they've had lots of tourists fainting on them. It was 95 in our room at night one night, and 82 last night. Fabulous. There is drinkable water all throughout the city constantly running out of taps and fountains. The infrastructure is pretty amazing I think.
One thing I didn't know is that the Vaticano is its own country. That tour was amazing, to see all of the images that I learned about in art history classes. We walked through the Vatican museums, then through the Sistine Chapel which was PACKED, and then the tour ended at St. Peter's Basilica. All was breath-taking. Our tour-guide, Jeannette, was from Orlando, FL. She's been living in Rome for 6 years, she was quite great and learned all 27 of our names in the short time with her. The one thing that upset me during this tour was - you are allowed to take photos everywhere except for in the Sistine Chapel. We walked in to a sea of photo-takers and flashes. I asked our guide why they weren't getting yelled at. Apparently they usually have more security on staff but in the summer months with so many on vacation, they just can't control it all. Rude rude photo-takers. Once we said ciao to our guide, we took the elevator up to the lower roof of St. Peter's where you could walk around the mosaics. A mass had just started which we could observe from I don't know how high up, but pretty high! That was one of my favorite parts, both being next to all of those mosaics, as well as listening to the mass.
Then we walked up several flights of tiny stairwells with curved walls. Was neat. At the top you go outside and get to look out at Rome. We were able to spot quite a few attractions and our hotel area. I definitely feel like I have a good sense of where everything is which has been really nice. Jenna and I can walk around a bit without the map in hand. The tons of tiny cobblestone streets not on a grid are what get us all turned around, in a fun way.
The next day we went to the Borghese Gallery, which was very impressive. It has lots of sculptures by Bernini and paintings by Carravaggio. Then we walked back to the hotel, slapped on some more sunscreen and headed to the pool on the river! Was so nice and relaxing. Our feet definitely needed the break.
Yesterday was the Old and Ancient Rome tour. We met at Piazza Navona, then headed to the Pantheon which was closed to tourists for Sunday mass. Which was ok because I had been in a few days before. Next stop was the Trevi Fountain - legend is to throw coins with your right hand over your left shoulder. If you throw in one coin - you'll return to Rome, if you throw in two coins - you'll fall in love in Rome, and if you throw in three coins - you'll get married in Rome. I'll leave it up to your imagination how many I threw in. ;) Apparently it worked for Jenna, she threw in one coin 14 years ago. Then we went to the Piazza Venezia. The locals call the building there a wedding cake, it's white, huge, and doesn't really fit in with the rest of the structures nearby, mainly ancient ruins. Next and highlight of the tour was the Roman Forum and Colosseum. First we went to the Roman Forum, then the Colosseum, and then once our guide left us we snuck back in a secret way (that the guide told us about) to head up to the Palatine Hill, which has a great view of the Forum and is where the emperors used to live.
After a short break at the hotel to rest our feet & shower & read a few chapters of my book I can't put down (The girl with the dragon tattoo), we headed down to Trastevere, a local neighborhood with no tourist attractions. Felt like a completely different Rome, which was nice to experience. Then we went to the Isola Tiberina, the island in the middle of the river, for another glass of wine. We layed on bean bags gazing up at the almost full moon, was really nice and romantic. We have what we've termed a "sismance" going on (female version of bromance).
Little anecdotes:
1) One morning as Jenna and I were hunched over the air conditioner trying to fix it, I looked out the window, and to my surprise there was a naked older Italian man just peering out the window. He had no tan lines and the windowsill was to his knees... I almost waved but decided not to.
2) Every time we tell an Italian that we are from California, they start singing the Tupac song "California Love", clearly a hit here too.
3) I meant to get an international student card for discounts, but apparently it wouldn't have worked because you need to be a youngster student, under 26.
4) There are havaianas everywhere! Quite popular, which is one thing, but I can't believe how many people are wearing them all day long walking like this. The havaianas are worn by everyone - Italians, Brasilians, and plenty of other tourists. Back in the day you could tell when someone was from Brasil if they were wearing them. Not so much anymore.
5) Regarding sandals, for all of those who know about my broken-ness, my hip & feet are holding up nicely! Knock on wood.
6) Speaking of Brasilians - I think these two countries have a little love affair
going on. Brasilian flags on shirts, hats, bags everywhere. Most of them are Brasilian, but lots are American or European as well. Defintely not seeing any other flags worn so proudly. We also stopped at Bar Brasile for lunch after our Ancient Rome tour. None of the men that worked there spoke Portuguese.
7) I got to witness a woman get escorted away from the Trevi fountain after she hopped in it to cool off. I don't know where the Polizia were standing, but they started whistling and rushing over quite quickly. Apparently I need to watch the movie La Dolce Vita.
8) While we are both very aware of our bags at all times and both pretty well traveled, Jenna didn't get her credit card back after lunch one day. She only realized it later in the evening. We rushed out to ask our friendliest hotelier (Bart) to call the restaurant which he happily did. SO lucky that they had it. We went & picked it up the next day, which was fun because we got to visit our friend Antonio at the tourist office and ask a few more questions. That definitely made us even more aware of pretty much everything. Good reminder at the beginning of the trip.
Headed off to Tuscany tomorrow. We are going to stay in Florence, and take day trips to Siena, Cortona, and Pisa. I can't believe that a week has already gone by. Brings a little frown to my face, cause I think the next 4 weeks are going to fly by way too quickly. I will have two days at the end of my trip in Rome to do last minute shopping and site-seeing of anything I missed. But for now I think we've seen everything that we wanted to, so are headed back to the pool!
Ciao!
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Have I mentioned it is hot?!
But I'm not complaining, how can I in a place like this...My fix - I took 3 cold showers yesterday.
Jenna and I had a great dinner last near the Piazza Navona, right behind the Brasilian consulate. What a huge and fabulous looking building that is, definitely had a sense of pride when I saw that.
We spent today walking around seeing some of the sites on the southeast side of Rome. We also went and got me a bus/metro pass and a Eurail pass. Jenna's guide book recommended a tourist office next to the Stazione Termini (train station where we waited in a long line to got my passes). So we went there and met a very sweet Antonio. He was quite a riot telling us about his wild night last night and how he was "moving a little slow today". So of course we asked him where the best nightlife is. It's hard though after a day of walking around in intense heat to try and stay up late. BUT I can sleep when I get home.
We booked two guided tours through Antonio - the Vatican tomorrow and then one called Ancient and Old Rome on Sunday. I've seen a few of the sites for Sunday's tour, but I'm sure it will all be a much better experience with a guide.
Antonio also recommended a lunch spot, the best meal I've had so far. But they have all been delicious.
We're thinking on Saturday to relax on the river in a pool and then heading down to Trastevere, a supposedly up & coming neighborhood. There is also an island (Isola) in the middle of the Tiber river that I am excited to check out Saturday night. Apparently you just sit on bean bags, sip vino, and stargaze.
Back to today - we couldn't enter a few of the churches, need to remember to bring my shawl type thing the next few days. Although my Vatican outfit will be legit all the way. Some of them had shawls outside that you could borrow which was nice. And OH how beautiful they are inside. The ornate gold ceilings, mosaics, and paintings. You can take photos in a lot of them, but they don't do it justice. Coolest church today was the Santa Maria Maggiore.
I will end my blog with - I got shat on by an Italian pigeon. Should have good luck by morning.
Jenna and I had a great dinner last near the Piazza Navona, right behind the Brasilian consulate. What a huge and fabulous looking building that is, definitely had a sense of pride when I saw that.
We spent today walking around seeing some of the sites on the southeast side of Rome. We also went and got me a bus/metro pass and a Eurail pass. Jenna's guide book recommended a tourist office next to the Stazione Termini (train station where we waited in a long line to got my passes). So we went there and met a very sweet Antonio. He was quite a riot telling us about his wild night last night and how he was "moving a little slow today". So of course we asked him where the best nightlife is. It's hard though after a day of walking around in intense heat to try and stay up late. BUT I can sleep when I get home.
We booked two guided tours through Antonio - the Vatican tomorrow and then one called Ancient and Old Rome on Sunday. I've seen a few of the sites for Sunday's tour, but I'm sure it will all be a much better experience with a guide.
Antonio also recommended a lunch spot, the best meal I've had so far. But they have all been delicious.
We're thinking on Saturday to relax on the river in a pool and then heading down to Trastevere, a supposedly up & coming neighborhood. There is also an island (Isola) in the middle of the Tiber river that I am excited to check out Saturday night. Apparently you just sit on bean bags, sip vino, and stargaze.
Back to today - we couldn't enter a few of the churches, need to remember to bring my shawl type thing the next few days. Although my Vatican outfit will be legit all the way. Some of them had shawls outside that you could borrow which was nice. And OH how beautiful they are inside. The ornate gold ceilings, mosaics, and paintings. You can take photos in a lot of them, but they don't do it justice. Coolest church today was the Santa Maria Maggiore.
I will end my blog with - I got shat on by an Italian pigeon. Should have good luck by morning.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Rome Day Due
I had quite a great time yesterday wandering around. My favorite sites of yesterday were the Piazza del Popolo, the Trinità dei Monti and the Fontana di Trevi. Went to bed pretty early as was tired from the trip, but then I woke up at 4am ready to go explore. Had to force myself to stay in bed.
Today I am taking in more of the sites and doing tons of people watching. How fun that is. There are so many tourists that you feel ok keeping your map and camera in hand at all times, which is nice. The Italian women are pretty awesome, especially the ones in their fancy outfits riding their Vespas. It seems very empowering yet feminine somehow.
The one thing I will reiterate - it is HOT. I think gelato might be what I eat the most here. I had to get up twice last night to empty the bucket in the air conditioner. It stops working once it is full, and with this humidity it fills every 4ish hours! I woke up pretty immediately once it stopped working each time.
There are pools by the river that I think you can pay to swim in, but the water doesn't look the cleanest.
I'm excited to have Jenna arrive today. Meeting her at the hotel around 4pm.
Today I am taking in more of the sites and doing tons of people watching. How fun that is. There are so many tourists that you feel ok keeping your map and camera in hand at all times, which is nice. The Italian women are pretty awesome, especially the ones in their fancy outfits riding their Vespas. It seems very empowering yet feminine somehow.
The one thing I will reiterate - it is HOT. I think gelato might be what I eat the most here. I had to get up twice last night to empty the bucket in the air conditioner. It stops working once it is full, and with this humidity it fills every 4ish hours! I woke up pretty immediately once it stopped working each time.
There are pools by the river that I think you can pay to swim in, but the water doesn't look the cleanest.
I'm excited to have Jenna arrive today. Meeting her at the hotel around 4pm.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Pinch me - I'm in Rome!
Salve blog readers.
Flight to Chicago went smoothly, and just had a very short layover. Just enough time to hit the bookstore since I finished the book I hand carried on the plane. Hopefully the other 4 will be enough for the next 5 weeks.
Flight to Rome could have been disastrous crammed with another girl in the two seats with a little kid kicking our seats before take-off. Luckily the plane was quite empty, so the dad and kid behind us moved and the girl next to me did as well. Phew. I managed to cram my 5'11 self into those two seats and was horizontal most of the flight. Didn't sleep much though, I think cause I was so excited!
Landed in Rome and just followed the crowd to baqgage claim & through customs. No custom forms & they didn't even open my passport. I went to hand it to him and he just waved me through. It's my innocent looks.
Then I wandered around for a bit trying to decide if I should take the bus, train, cab, or shuttle to my hotel. I decided on the shuttle and they dropped 2 couples off before me, so I got the grand tour and was able to spot lots of the sites just during that trip. Some weren't on my list but now are! Got a little naseous, the driver had a lead foot, but was very nice.
Then I got to my hotel which I thought was on the east of the river, but not so much. I think the map on the internet a little bit lied. The hotel is closer to the Vatican. I am already realizing how small Rome is, will be able to cover lots by foot in a week, I think. I just did a big 3 hour loop looking for an internet cafe. I asked a few people and they didn't know. I was then approached by an Italian (Simòn) not from Rome, who asked me for directions! That of course made me proud, he was surprised I didn't speak Italian. I spoke Portuguese & English with him. Worked out well, he grabbed my hand and led me about a 5 minute walk to an Internet cafe. Very nice & not too scary. He then said he would come back in a half an hour and we could get gelato. I told him I just had some (which was true - Coconut & deliciously refreshing). He then replied what about coffee. I laughed at that. It's hotter than wasabi over here! I told him thanks again, he took the hint and he went on his way.
Now about the hotel. Based on the price of this hotel & its condition, I'm almost scared to see what a hostel looks like! I can't wait till Jenna sees it. Will take photos. The guy behind the desk, the maid in a see-through outfit, and the janitor fought and bickered at each other while I was waiting for my room. Felt like I was stuck in a comedy for about an hour. All I wanted was water and a shower.
I then took my shower, got dressed and headed out only to realize that I didn't shut the door properly. Yikes! Is this too much info? Are we already bored reading my blog? Based on how much this 20 minute session is, I might learn to keep these shorter :)
Now off to try and find my way back to my hotel. Or perhaps not. I like wandering, especially now that it's a bit cooler out. Already been off the beaten path twice in some neighborhoods. It's fun! Thinking pizza tonight.
Arrivederci!
Flight to Chicago went smoothly, and just had a very short layover. Just enough time to hit the bookstore since I finished the book I hand carried on the plane. Hopefully the other 4 will be enough for the next 5 weeks.
Flight to Rome could have been disastrous crammed with another girl in the two seats with a little kid kicking our seats before take-off. Luckily the plane was quite empty, so the dad and kid behind us moved and the girl next to me did as well. Phew. I managed to cram my 5'11 self into those two seats and was horizontal most of the flight. Didn't sleep much though, I think cause I was so excited!
Landed in Rome and just followed the crowd to baqgage claim & through customs. No custom forms & they didn't even open my passport. I went to hand it to him and he just waved me through. It's my innocent looks.
Then I wandered around for a bit trying to decide if I should take the bus, train, cab, or shuttle to my hotel. I decided on the shuttle and they dropped 2 couples off before me, so I got the grand tour and was able to spot lots of the sites just during that trip. Some weren't on my list but now are! Got a little naseous, the driver had a lead foot, but was very nice.
Then I got to my hotel which I thought was on the east of the river, but not so much. I think the map on the internet a little bit lied. The hotel is closer to the Vatican. I am already realizing how small Rome is, will be able to cover lots by foot in a week, I think. I just did a big 3 hour loop looking for an internet cafe. I asked a few people and they didn't know. I was then approached by an Italian (Simòn) not from Rome, who asked me for directions! That of course made me proud, he was surprised I didn't speak Italian. I spoke Portuguese & English with him. Worked out well, he grabbed my hand and led me about a 5 minute walk to an Internet cafe. Very nice & not too scary. He then said he would come back in a half an hour and we could get gelato. I told him I just had some (which was true - Coconut & deliciously refreshing). He then replied what about coffee. I laughed at that. It's hotter than wasabi over here! I told him thanks again, he took the hint and he went on his way.
Now about the hotel. Based on the price of this hotel & its condition, I'm almost scared to see what a hostel looks like! I can't wait till Jenna sees it. Will take photos. The guy behind the desk, the maid in a see-through outfit, and the janitor fought and bickered at each other while I was waiting for my room. Felt like I was stuck in a comedy for about an hour. All I wanted was water and a shower.
I then took my shower, got dressed and headed out only to realize that I didn't shut the door properly. Yikes! Is this too much info? Are we already bored reading my blog? Based on how much this 20 minute session is, I might learn to keep these shorter :)
Now off to try and find my way back to my hotel. Or perhaps not. I like wandering, especially now that it's a bit cooler out. Already been off the beaten path twice in some neighborhoods. It's fun! Thinking pizza tonight.
Arrivederci!
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Italy Itinerary
This will most likely change, but here is the basic plan for Italia.
July 20th - 26th: Rome
July 27th - August 1st: Siena/Florence/Tuscany
August 2nd - 5th: Cinque Terre
August 6th - 7th: Genoa
August 8th - 9th: Milan
August 10th - 11th: Lake Como
August 12th - 14th: Venice
August 15th: Ravenna
August 16h - 18th: Capri/Naples/Almafi Coast/Pompei
August 19th - 21st: Sicily
August 22 - 23rd: Rome
July 20th - 26th: Rome
July 27th - August 1st: Siena/Florence/Tuscany
August 2nd - 5th: Cinque Terre
August 6th - 7th: Genoa
August 8th - 9th: Milan
August 10th - 11th: Lake Como
August 12th - 14th: Venice
August 15th: Ravenna
August 16h - 18th: Capri/Naples/Almafi Coast/Pompei
August 19th - 21st: Sicily
August 22 - 23rd: Rome
Packing
My first blog post while packing, trying to figure out how this works. Am I a blogger? Not really. But plenty of people have been telling me that I must keep a blog for them to be able to keep track of me. I will try my best to update this as often as possible. But no promises. I've also been asked by lots of people to post photos while I am gone. Too technical for me. I also don't want to spend a ton of time on the computer, when I could be out exploring, meeting gorgeous Italians, and sipping some vino.
Packing is an art form I am not very good at. Am trying to fit everything I will possibly need for 5 weeks into one not very large suitcase. I also need to leave room so that I can shop along the way!
Packing is an art form I am not very good at. Am trying to fit everything I will possibly need for 5 weeks into one not very large suitcase. I also need to leave room so that I can shop along the way!
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