Our last night in Rome was fabulous. We went to dinner by the Spanish Steps, a restaurant mentioned in my guide book. We were seated at a cute little table and shortly afterwards two guys were seated at the table right next to us. They were speaking a mix of Italian and Spanish. The Italian leaned over and asked if he could suggest a dish, which he did. It was a red meat dish that Jenna said was indeed fabulous. We chatted throughout the dinner off and on. Found out that they had just met that day! Friends in common and the Spaniard was touring Italy. The Italian was very philosophical, spoke about art and culture and asked us what we really thought of Italians and Italy, he didn't want to hear "anything superficial". He also expressed that we had just made him realize how similar Italian and Americans really are, we seemed to have re-established his faith in Americans. After dinner and a gelato with the boys we said our goodbyes. Jenna and I were both in a bit of awe at how fun and random the evening was. Such great conversation. Gregory, if you read this - please do look us up if you ever are back in San Francisco!
The next morning, with a hesitant hand I packed up my belongings. But at least I will be back to Rome. For one night. We took a bus and metro to the train station. Before heading in to the station we stopped at Fawlty Towers, a hostel by the train station recommended by our friend Antonio at the Enjoy Rome tour office. I asked to see a room, it was nice! That reminds me I need to send them an email to reserve my room. A lot of places ask to do that, the ones that aren't set up for you to book online. Even if you call them, or are there in person, you have to email them to make the reservation.
Speaking of emailing hotels, we just booked our hotel in Cinque Terre, called Manuel's Guesthouse. In response to our email reserving the room, the hotel replied with directions from the closest train station. The end of the directions are too funny to not share:
"Almost immediately you will find a wide set of stairs to your left. Look up- the pink house with the balcony at the top is Manuel’s! Anyway, follow these stairs up, they turn to the right, you turn with them. Keep going.. When you reach number 39 on your left where the stairs are, you’ll find the writing ‘Proprietà Privata’ (Private property). This is Manuel’s. Go up the narrow stairway to the very top (his is the only house). There is a gate and 2 dogs. The dogs are harmless. Please close the gate behind you. Then yell ‘Manuel!’- he’ll come out and show you to your room."
I don't know about Jenna, but I am SO excited to yell 'Manuel!!!'. And of course to pet the harmless dogs.
Back to leaving Rome - it took us quite a while to figure out the train situation. Even though we have a Eurail pass, you have to get another ticket for each trip you take. Anyways, we both got windows seats on a very snazzy train. Yes, I just brought back the word snazzy.
Apparently it rained on the way to Florence. As much as I wanted to watch the gorgeous countryside go by, I couldn't keep my eyes open. It was quite a quick trip, we were on a high-speed train that made no other stops. For the short time I was awake, I read the section on Florence in my guide book, and the first chapter of my next novel - The Monster of Florence, true story about a serial killer here. Perhaps not the best story to be reading right now...but interesting so far.
We found our way to our hotel, which we chose because of its proximity to the train station. Our plan for the next 3 days is to take day trips to Pisa, Cortona, and Siena. Everything about our hotel is nicer than the one in Rome. Our toilet works! The only bummer is that we are on the 3rd floor, and the elevator only goes to the 1st floor. We managed. My suitcase will definitely be heavier on the way down, such great shopping here.
Yesterday we wandered across the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence - a pedestrian bridge filled with shops, mainly jewlery. Our plan was to go to the Boboli gardens and then to dinner. But our guide books failed to mention two things - how to get to the Boboli gardens and the fact that they are closed off by a wall. It took us a while to figure that out, and once we did the gardens were closed. So we headed to dinner which was fabulous! We were seated near about 30 Australian tourists, all in their mid-20s. I love the Australians, but I think I can speak for the rest of the restaurant that we were glad when they left. They left by all taking a shot of Limoncello together, you get the idea.
On our stroll back to the hotel, an art vendor Aurturo was working hard to get Jenna to share a bottle of wine with him by the river. I ruined his game when I walked over there after taking several pictures of the Duomo at night. She kindly declined but bought some of his art.
Today we got up bright and early and headed to the Gallery of the Accademia. The line wasn't too long, so our plan for the next few days is going to get up early and visit a museum before getting on the train for our day trip. The Gallery had a lot of great work, but it is definitely all shadowed by Michelangelo's David. My art teacher wasn't kidding, it is massive and so impressive. Once we were done soaking up the masterpieces, we went to soak up some divine pizza next to the Duomo. I love the cathedral here with the Duomo and bell tower (Campanile), the green, red, and white marble inlays almost look fake, like it is painted instead of marble.
After lunch we took a second stab at finding the Boboli gardens. I learned a long time ago that when in need ask for help, so I told a waiter "I need help!". He pointed us in the right direction. No signage indicates that you have to go through the Pitti Palace to get to the gardens. Anyways, once we finally got in we grew a bit flustered by getting turned around trying to find some of the sculptures and fountains we wanted to see in there. The solution? A map? Nope. We took a nice siesta under a tree and woke up refreshed and ready to tackle the rest of the gardens. We found what we were mainly looking for, which was obnoxiously right by the exit, a fountain of fat Bacchus riding a turtle.
Then we headed back to the center of town and perused some of the outdoor market stalls while they were closing up. We will definitely be heading back there.
We are now in present time. Sitting in an "internet point" and ready for dinner. How is it that these Italian days go by so quickly! I asked Gregory what the typical cocktail was here, so tonight is the night to try and find a Negroni. Apparently something with Campari, will report back.
All in all, a wonderful birthday spent in Florence.
Ciao!
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