Train from Granada to Sevilla was about 3 hours and seamless. This train was called Media Distancia. The journey types all seem to have different names, but all sold by the same company - Renfe. My seat was backwards this time which I don't like. Partially because I prefer to see where I'm going instead of where I've been.
All my seats have been in the caboose. Not sure if the guy at the Madrid train station had it out for me or what. I put on my little eye mask and plugged in my ipod for most of the journey because there were little old couples that would not stop chattering. It was endearing for about five minutes.
When I got to Sevilla I hopped into the tourist office in the train station, picked up a map, and had the info desk guy point out the area where my hostel is. While the hostel gives directions for a bus and short walk, walking the entire way was nice and easy.
I checked in, threw my stuff in my room, made my bed (which is always the first thing I do) and headed for the bus station which is across town from the train station, my hostel being somewhat in the middle of the two. I wanted to buy the bus ticket from Sevilla to southern Portugal since there are only two buses a day. I can only buy the next two bus tickets I'll need once I get to Portugal.
Speaking of Portugal, am pretty excited to try and speak Portuguese there. The bartender in Barcelona from Portugal and the Brasilian I met in Granada both told me that it'll be harder for me to understand Portugal Portuguese than Spanish. I find that so odd. I do remember my freshman year advisor from Mozambique telling me he had a really hard time understanding the Portugal folks as well, but we could understand each other just fine.
Anyways, once I booked my bus ticket for Monday I went to a nearby market and bought some juice and snacks for the next few days to store in the hostel fridge.
It's been raining here off and on. I took a siesta in the hostel after my snack to dry off a bit. I scored another bottom bunk (some hostels assign you a bed number like this one, sometimes it's first come first serve). However, the bed is on the floor which I don't love. I'd almost rather the top bunk here. Grass is always greener. The girl from Hong Kong I met last night showed me a photo of her hostel room in Granada - they shove so many people in each room that they have triple-decker beds! Crazy. Apparently the middle bed is the best because it's the only one where you can sit up.
Before I forget - two more things about Granada:
1) To clarify, most of Granada is actually pretty flat, but the cool old part of town close to the Alhambra and where I stayed is very hilly.
2) Yesterday I took a little siesta and was woken up pleasantly by a guy singing and playing the guitar. After I booked my flamenco ticket I walked back towards my hostel to try and find him. Turns out there was also a guy tap-dancing next to him, kind of adding a drum sound to the music. I sat and watched them for about an hour sipping some tinto de verano before the flamenco show.
My stroll today around Sevilla was nice. I walked around just getting the lay of the land, not really paying attention to the sites just yet. Although some you couldn't avoid wondering what they were. I walked through the Centro and El Arenal neighborhood. Headed down Avenida de la Constitucion, passed the cathedral that I'm going to visit tomorrow, and then a large structure that I thought might be the Alcazar palace (which I also want to try and visit tomorrow) but it turned out to be the Universidad de Sevilla and apparently this building used to be the royal Fabrica de Tabacos. Really pretty.
After a quick view of the Plaza de Espana I headed towards the Rio Guadalquivir to check that out. Looking at the map and the layout of Sevilla reminds me of Roma with the flow of the river and all the bridges. Sevilla is also much larger than I thought it was going to be.
I walked past tons of flamenco shops. As tempting as it is I don't think I'll be purchasing a flamenco dress. But I definitely have to get to a show here. The one in Granada was very nice but small and I couldn't see her fancy footwork, just heard the noise her shoes made.
Walking by the river down the Passeo de Cristobal Colon there were lots of policia directing traffic. Some event either just happened or was about to happen. I then stopped where tons of people were standing outside a circular building. TV cameras everywhere, so I naturally had to find out what was up. About a minute after I approached the building there were loud cheers and I could see a guy walking out. I could just see his arm waving and head - and I could tell he was wearing a fantastically flashy bullfighter outfit. So I asked a woman next to me and sure enough she confirmed that he was a famous torero. After walking a bit more I could see the sign of the building - Plaza de Toros.
On cue after the torero got into his little van it started pouring. Everyone flipped open their umbrellas and started scattering. I ducked under a thick shrub and sat on a bench for a few minutes. I managed to stay dry but thought it best to start heading back to my hostel. Am going to try and get up and start sight-seeing early. Unfortunately it's supposed to rain all weekend.
Saturday, April 30, 2011
Friday, April 29, 2011
Bright orange
Woke up to rain in Granada. The 30 minute walk to the train station will be a bit less fun, but I'd rather walk than take the bus. AND I'm excited to finally bust out my bag's rain jacket. That's right. It has one. And it's bright orange. :)
Tu hablas?
The Spaniards are so friendly. Can't get over it.
Last night was fun. The tapas tour starts every night at 9pm, but we were delayed two hours because we had to wait until the end of the Real Madrid/Barcelona game. I love watching futbol. I do. But these two teams are playing four times while I'm here...and I'm a little over it. When I watched in Madrid they tied. When I watched in Barcelona, Madrid won (would have been much cooler to be in Madrid). And then watching in Granada, Barcelona wins (after I just left Barcelona).
I was rooting for Real Madrid in Madrid, Barcelona in Barcelona, and I didn't really care who won last night. Everyone here were rooting for Barcelona. I must admit that I've developed a little crush on the Madrid coach. Google image search Jose Mourinho if you're curious. So cute.
Anyways, once the game was over we headed out with our hostel tapas tourguide Christian - an Italian from Milano that has lived in Spain for four years, Granada for one. He was really nice and friendly. There were seven of us, including Christian. A guy from Israel, a guy from Scotland, and then three Brits. They were all very nice. Although the guy from Scotland is my bunkmate and also snores...
We went to two tapas bars. Everywhere here you just order a drink and the tapas are free. I had the 1925 "reserve" Alhambra beer, very good. It comes in a pretty green bottle with the label as part of the glass (not glued on). If you know me well you have already guessed that one of those bottles is already in my pack as a free souvenir of Granada.
Christian communicated to the bartenders that I didn't eat meat so they made sure to bring a veg option, which was nice. I felt bad for the girl that was allergic to gluten. She was too embarrassed to say anything.
On our way to a cocktail bar we ran into several of Christian's friends who were heading to a house party. He gave us the option, and while I wanted to go to the bar, everyone else was into the house party. It was a hike up to the top of Granada (it's extremely hilly here) to this house. Among the group of newfound friends was a Brasilian who has lived here for a year, about to head home. He was super nice and shared his 40 with me (and not with any other tourists). I couldn't say no. Once we finally got to the party it was a super cool old house with a little open-air foyer with old columns. Christian said it was from the 17th century, like our hostel. No one at the party was from Spain. They weren't tourists per say, they all live here but are from all over the world. Only thing they had in common was that they were hippies. Lots of dreaded hippies in Granada in fact. Dreaded as in dreadlocks, not as in a sense of fear or apprehension.
After about 10 minutes I decided I wanted to go home. Since it was an impromtpu house party none of us were prepared with BYOB so it got not-fun pretty quickly. My bunkmate (forget his name) and I headed home sans map. I had one in my bag but we just headed downhill towards the Alhambra and were able to find our way. This morning we found out that everyone else left about 20 minutes after we did because the cops shut down the party. Definitely more quiet here. On the walk home all the restaurants were closed, was surprising to see after being in Madrid & Barcelona. But also a nice change of pace.
This morning I got up and decided to just wander around all day. Even with a map you'll get lost so for the most part I walked around without one, and backtracked a few times so as to not get too turned around. The Alhambra was my guiding light, as long as I knew where it was I was ok.
I managed to find the Mirador San Nicolas which has a great view of the Alhambra. I've been told I need to return there at dusk or once it's dark.
Granada is full of souvenir shops, more than you'd imagine for the size of the town. There are also lots of tea houses and shisha bars.
After hours of walking and once I was ready for a snack I stopped into a bar on a little alley near the Plaza Nueva. I didn't want to be on the square with all the tourists. This little place was fabulous. Not only were they showing a more local futbol game, but they also were playing Spanish music!
I ordered a 1925 reserva and they brought over a free tapa, which of course had meat. So I asked for the tapas menu and ordered some cheese and the tortilla espanola. Probably the best tortilla I've had. When I ordered a second beer I was hopeful that they weren't going to bring me another free tapa. But they did. So as politely as I could I said no thank you, and explained that I was a vegetarian. He smiled and said - 'yes I could see that since you didn't touch the last tapa and ordered the two tapas we have without meat. So I had the chef make you a mushroom and cheese sandwich.' This blew me away. In Madrid and Barcelona I told the waiters I was a vegetarian but they would often still bring me the free meat tapas. Which is why I didn't bother saying anything here. The fact that he could tell and went out of his way to have the chef make something special for me was above and beyond nice. It was also delicious.
The tapas are a bit different here - instead of a slice of meat, cheese, or even a hotdog on a slice of bread like in Madrid & Barcelona, they give you a little bagel looking sandwich.
I've also decided that all the sneezing is seasonal allergies. You can't smoke in bars or restaurants here which is much appreciated, but pollen is flying around everywhere.
Last night other hostel guests told me about a flamenco show nearby that was only 6 euros. While I've been saving the flamenco show for Sevilla (since I'm told that's where it started), I figured it couldn't hurt to check this one out since it was so cheap in comparison to all the other ones I've seen.
It was fun. Tiny tiny place and about 50 of us were packed in tightly. I shared a table with a nice girl from Hong Kong and three Aussies.
No new roommates today. Just me and now three guys. All very nice but the snoring is too much. At least I'm the first one to bed tonight so I'll hopefully get some quality sleep before they stumble in.
Off to Sevilla in the morning!
Last night was fun. The tapas tour starts every night at 9pm, but we were delayed two hours because we had to wait until the end of the Real Madrid/Barcelona game. I love watching futbol. I do. But these two teams are playing four times while I'm here...and I'm a little over it. When I watched in Madrid they tied. When I watched in Barcelona, Madrid won (would have been much cooler to be in Madrid). And then watching in Granada, Barcelona wins (after I just left Barcelona).
I was rooting for Real Madrid in Madrid, Barcelona in Barcelona, and I didn't really care who won last night. Everyone here were rooting for Barcelona. I must admit that I've developed a little crush on the Madrid coach. Google image search Jose Mourinho if you're curious. So cute.
Anyways, once the game was over we headed out with our hostel tapas tourguide Christian - an Italian from Milano that has lived in Spain for four years, Granada for one. He was really nice and friendly. There were seven of us, including Christian. A guy from Israel, a guy from Scotland, and then three Brits. They were all very nice. Although the guy from Scotland is my bunkmate and also snores...
We went to two tapas bars. Everywhere here you just order a drink and the tapas are free. I had the 1925 "reserve" Alhambra beer, very good. It comes in a pretty green bottle with the label as part of the glass (not glued on). If you know me well you have already guessed that one of those bottles is already in my pack as a free souvenir of Granada.
Christian communicated to the bartenders that I didn't eat meat so they made sure to bring a veg option, which was nice. I felt bad for the girl that was allergic to gluten. She was too embarrassed to say anything.
On our way to a cocktail bar we ran into several of Christian's friends who were heading to a house party. He gave us the option, and while I wanted to go to the bar, everyone else was into the house party. It was a hike up to the top of Granada (it's extremely hilly here) to this house. Among the group of newfound friends was a Brasilian who has lived here for a year, about to head home. He was super nice and shared his 40 with me (and not with any other tourists). I couldn't say no. Once we finally got to the party it was a super cool old house with a little open-air foyer with old columns. Christian said it was from the 17th century, like our hostel. No one at the party was from Spain. They weren't tourists per say, they all live here but are from all over the world. Only thing they had in common was that they were hippies. Lots of dreaded hippies in Granada in fact. Dreaded as in dreadlocks, not as in a sense of fear or apprehension.
After about 10 minutes I decided I wanted to go home. Since it was an impromtpu house party none of us were prepared with BYOB so it got not-fun pretty quickly. My bunkmate (forget his name) and I headed home sans map. I had one in my bag but we just headed downhill towards the Alhambra and were able to find our way. This morning we found out that everyone else left about 20 minutes after we did because the cops shut down the party. Definitely more quiet here. On the walk home all the restaurants were closed, was surprising to see after being in Madrid & Barcelona. But also a nice change of pace.
This morning I got up and decided to just wander around all day. Even with a map you'll get lost so for the most part I walked around without one, and backtracked a few times so as to not get too turned around. The Alhambra was my guiding light, as long as I knew where it was I was ok.
I managed to find the Mirador San Nicolas which has a great view of the Alhambra. I've been told I need to return there at dusk or once it's dark.
Granada is full of souvenir shops, more than you'd imagine for the size of the town. There are also lots of tea houses and shisha bars.
After hours of walking and once I was ready for a snack I stopped into a bar on a little alley near the Plaza Nueva. I didn't want to be on the square with all the tourists. This little place was fabulous. Not only were they showing a more local futbol game, but they also were playing Spanish music!
I ordered a 1925 reserva and they brought over a free tapa, which of course had meat. So I asked for the tapas menu and ordered some cheese and the tortilla espanola. Probably the best tortilla I've had. When I ordered a second beer I was hopeful that they weren't going to bring me another free tapa. But they did. So as politely as I could I said no thank you, and explained that I was a vegetarian. He smiled and said - 'yes I could see that since you didn't touch the last tapa and ordered the two tapas we have without meat. So I had the chef make you a mushroom and cheese sandwich.' This blew me away. In Madrid and Barcelona I told the waiters I was a vegetarian but they would often still bring me the free meat tapas. Which is why I didn't bother saying anything here. The fact that he could tell and went out of his way to have the chef make something special for me was above and beyond nice. It was also delicious.
The tapas are a bit different here - instead of a slice of meat, cheese, or even a hotdog on a slice of bread like in Madrid & Barcelona, they give you a little bagel looking sandwich.
I've also decided that all the sneezing is seasonal allergies. You can't smoke in bars or restaurants here which is much appreciated, but pollen is flying around everywhere.
Last night other hostel guests told me about a flamenco show nearby that was only 6 euros. While I've been saving the flamenco show for Sevilla (since I'm told that's where it started), I figured it couldn't hurt to check this one out since it was so cheap in comparison to all the other ones I've seen.
It was fun. Tiny tiny place and about 50 of us were packed in tightly. I shared a table with a nice girl from Hong Kong and three Aussies.
No new roommates today. Just me and now three guys. All very nice but the snoring is too much. At least I'm the first one to bed tonight so I'll hopefully get some quality sleep before they stumble in.
Off to Sevilla in the morning!
Thursday, April 28, 2011
The Alhambra
When I told my great uncle John that I was going to Spain his first response was "you have to go to the Alhambra".
The Alhambra is a walled-in city above Granada in the foothills of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains. It is supposedly Spain's most visited monument and they limit the amount of visitors daily so advanced reservations are pretty much necessary.
I booked my ticket when I was in Madrid via a 3rd party since all the tickets sold directly from the Alhambra were sold out. I was a little skeptical both during my research and booking, but sure enough a group of us met at the Plaza Nueva and were taken in a little bus up to the Alhambra.
I then joined 29 other tourists for an English speaking group. Every day there are 130 guides in all languages walking groups around, to give you an idea. It was a 3 hour tour, not sure if my tour guide was giving another one later or not.
The Alhambra is a palace and fortress complex constructed during the mid 14th century by Moorish rulers. The Moorish palaces were built for the last Muslim Emirs in Spain and its court, of the Nasrid dynasty. After the Reconquista by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492 some portions were used by the Christian rulers.
We walked through the palaces and the Generalife gardens. The interior palace walls were covered with hand-made ceramic tiles and stucco with Arabic inscriptions. Was very beautiful.
After the tour ended I walked around Granada's town center a bit in search of a nice little lunch spot. I came across a restaurant called Kasbah which was a fusion of Arab, Indian, and something else. It was ok. I already miss having a guidebook. I'll have to wing it here and in Seville, or ask the hostel folks for recommendations.
As soon as I walked out of the restaurant it started to sprinkle and then developed into a nice little thunderstorm. Short and sweet but I thought it was a perfect time to head back to my hostel for a little siesta.
The sun was really strong earlier today before the rain. While I kept my leggings and fleece on all day I have seen lots of sunburned faces and arms. Might have to dig my sunscreen out from the depths of my bag.
Speaking of bags - it's been relaxing already being in a smaller town and less worried about my belongings. Alegria would not be pleased but I wore my bag on my back most of the day. Except for in the palaces where you are actually required to wear your bag in front of you so you don't accidentally touch the walls.
Tonight I'm going to do the Tapas tour guided by the hostel. Am hopeful it'll be fun.
The Alhambra is a walled-in city above Granada in the foothills of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains. It is supposedly Spain's most visited monument and they limit the amount of visitors daily so advanced reservations are pretty much necessary.
I booked my ticket when I was in Madrid via a 3rd party since all the tickets sold directly from the Alhambra were sold out. I was a little skeptical both during my research and booking, but sure enough a group of us met at the Plaza Nueva and were taken in a little bus up to the Alhambra.
I then joined 29 other tourists for an English speaking group. Every day there are 130 guides in all languages walking groups around, to give you an idea. It was a 3 hour tour, not sure if my tour guide was giving another one later or not.
The Alhambra is a palace and fortress complex constructed during the mid 14th century by Moorish rulers. The Moorish palaces were built for the last Muslim Emirs in Spain and its court, of the Nasrid dynasty. After the Reconquista by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492 some portions were used by the Christian rulers.
We walked through the palaces and the Generalife gardens. The interior palace walls were covered with hand-made ceramic tiles and stucco with Arabic inscriptions. Was very beautiful.
After the tour ended I walked around Granada's town center a bit in search of a nice little lunch spot. I came across a restaurant called Kasbah which was a fusion of Arab, Indian, and something else. It was ok. I already miss having a guidebook. I'll have to wing it here and in Seville, or ask the hostel folks for recommendations.
As soon as I walked out of the restaurant it started to sprinkle and then developed into a nice little thunderstorm. Short and sweet but I thought it was a perfect time to head back to my hostel for a little siesta.
The sun was really strong earlier today before the rain. While I kept my leggings and fleece on all day I have seen lots of sunburned faces and arms. Might have to dig my sunscreen out from the depths of my bag.
Speaking of bags - it's been relaxing already being in a smaller town and less worried about my belongings. Alegria would not be pleased but I wore my bag on my back most of the day. Except for in the palaces where you are actually required to wear your bag in front of you so you don't accidentally touch the walls.
Tonight I'm going to do the Tapas tour guided by the hostel. Am hopeful it'll be fun.
Granada
Yesterday was mainly a travel day with a few things to mention.
The first train from Barcelona to Madrid was a very nice Ave high speed train. I sat next to a very nice businessman. I could barely keep my eyes open. Since I had already done this train trip I felt ok sleeping. I leaned against the window until my neck started hurting, and then put my tray table down and was trying to fluff my little fleece up to make a pillow. That's when the nice businessman tapped my shoulder and when I got up he put his very big and comfy pea coat down to add to my pillow. Who does that?! So nice. I had no shame and used it, and slept like a baby for hours.
I had a little over an hour in the Madrid terminal so I grabbed a little snack and people watched.
Train number two was an Altaria train and not so high speed or fancy. It was clean and all but a bit on the rickety side. So rickety that when the train took a wide turn my seat and the one next to me came off their hinges and rotated almost to a 45 degree angle. The chick next to me and I basically floated the rest of the way to Granada. I had to keep my feet planted and kind of holding on to the floor to keep it from moving. She was no help since she was about 4 feet tall and her feet didn't touch the floor.
I was glad I slept the first train and not the trip from Madrid to Granada because the scenery was so gorgeous and picturesque.
We were supposed to arrive at 9:30pm but for some reason we delayed a few times and ended up arriving after 10pm. I wanted to try and follow the hostel's directions by taking a bus and then walking to the hostel. But for some reason they don't allow check-in after 11pm, even though there is reception all night long. So I didn't want to risk getting lost and not finding the hostel in time. I hopped in a cab.
This hostel (White Nest) is very nice and seems to pride itself in its decor, at least more so than any other hostel. Will take some photos. There are six beds in my room but three of them are empty as of right now. Just me and two guys. I've stayed in five different shared rooms this trip with several roommates coming and going in each. So I guess I've been lucky that this is the first completely brutal snorer I've encountered. The only upside is that he got home at around 6am, so I got a good four hours of sleep beforehand. Brutal even with earplugs.
The first train from Barcelona to Madrid was a very nice Ave high speed train. I sat next to a very nice businessman. I could barely keep my eyes open. Since I had already done this train trip I felt ok sleeping. I leaned against the window until my neck started hurting, and then put my tray table down and was trying to fluff my little fleece up to make a pillow. That's when the nice businessman tapped my shoulder and when I got up he put his very big and comfy pea coat down to add to my pillow. Who does that?! So nice. I had no shame and used it, and slept like a baby for hours.
I had a little over an hour in the Madrid terminal so I grabbed a little snack and people watched.
Train number two was an Altaria train and not so high speed or fancy. It was clean and all but a bit on the rickety side. So rickety that when the train took a wide turn my seat and the one next to me came off their hinges and rotated almost to a 45 degree angle. The chick next to me and I basically floated the rest of the way to Granada. I had to keep my feet planted and kind of holding on to the floor to keep it from moving. She was no help since she was about 4 feet tall and her feet didn't touch the floor.
I was glad I slept the first train and not the trip from Madrid to Granada because the scenery was so gorgeous and picturesque.
We were supposed to arrive at 9:30pm but for some reason we delayed a few times and ended up arriving after 10pm. I wanted to try and follow the hostel's directions by taking a bus and then walking to the hostel. But for some reason they don't allow check-in after 11pm, even though there is reception all night long. So I didn't want to risk getting lost and not finding the hostel in time. I hopped in a cab.
This hostel (White Nest) is very nice and seems to pride itself in its decor, at least more so than any other hostel. Will take some photos. There are six beds in my room but three of them are empty as of right now. Just me and two guys. I've stayed in five different shared rooms this trip with several roommates coming and going in each. So I guess I've been lucky that this is the first completely brutal snorer I've encountered. The only upside is that he got home at around 6am, so I got a good four hours of sleep beforehand. Brutal even with earplugs.
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Barcelona - you're my wonderwall
Today I completed the last neighborhood walk of my guidebook - La Rambla. Granted I had walked it several times, but this time I paid attention to the sites the book listed along the way. The walk started at the Placa de Catalunya and directs you all the way down La Rambla to the water - ending at the large statue Mirador de Colom.
The term La Rambla apparently comes from Arabic meaning a dry riverbed, which this large pedestrian strip once was. It is comprised of five sections so some call it Las Ramblas, but I'll go by the sign on the street that says La Rambla. There are shops to the sides of the two little car streets, but the main strip in the middle is all pedestrian. If that makes sense. Full of news and souvenir type stands, art vendors, florists, and even mini pet stores (which I don't know how I feel about). Also tons of live statues or whatever those people are called. You know what I mean. The folks that dress up, paint their face, and ask for money.
Once I got to the end I headed towards the water and sat and pondered overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Deep thoughts happened there. For instance - what would I dress up as if I was one of the La Rambla dresser-upper statue folks trying to make money. Today I saw a cowboy, an angel, some creepy Edwards Scissorhands looking guy, and a plain old statue guy. I just don't know what I'd be.
I then wandered back into town and headed towards my favorite restaurant - Organic. I had a fabulous lunch and reminisced about my first few days here staying in the neighborhood of El Raval.
Then I went and picked up stamps at a Tabbac shop and had a fun conversation with the guy behind the desk from Brasil. I've noticed lots of Brasilians here in fact.
I swerved through Barri Gotic up to L'Eixample, which I call the Example neighborhood. On the border of the two is Els Quatre Gats (or The Four Cats) which is a cafe that was Picasso's hang out. Picasso designed the menu for it back in the day, which I saw in the Picasso museum. I had a glass of wine and read my book. One of you will be receiving a postcard of Els Quatre Gats for obvious reasons.
Even though it wasn't a very eventful day in the grand scheme of things I was exhausted. So I headed back to the hostel for 45 minutes of shut-eye before meeting up with Nick (the friend of a friend of a friend) for some dinner and drinks. We met outside of the Casa Battlo and wandered up to the Gracia neighborhood which was fun - definitely less touristy and because it was a holiday, all of the locals were out and each little plaza was quite animated. Kim, Nick sends a hug.
Speaking of the holiday - I saw no children carrying around easter eggs. Quite disappointing.
A few random comments:
1) I've been sneezing a whole lot. It's either allergies or from all of the second hand smoke I've been inhaling. I doubt it's from the fresh Mediterranean air, and I don't feel like I'm getting sick.
2) The popo are very nice here - everywhere I turn they are helping tourists by giving them directions. Although they are also very strict about open containers. I've seen quite a few people get reprimanded, have to pour their beers out, or even getting fined. I almost brought my opened bottle of wine out but decided to drink it in my hostel once I got back. We don't cause trouble, we don't bother nobody.
Off to Granada in the morning. First a train to Madrid and then a train to Granada. Going to take most of the day. Only other option was to take an overnight train which I mentally wasn't prepared to do. Not by myself anyway.
The term La Rambla apparently comes from Arabic meaning a dry riverbed, which this large pedestrian strip once was. It is comprised of five sections so some call it Las Ramblas, but I'll go by the sign on the street that says La Rambla. There are shops to the sides of the two little car streets, but the main strip in the middle is all pedestrian. If that makes sense. Full of news and souvenir type stands, art vendors, florists, and even mini pet stores (which I don't know how I feel about). Also tons of live statues or whatever those people are called. You know what I mean. The folks that dress up, paint their face, and ask for money.
Once I got to the end I headed towards the water and sat and pondered overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Deep thoughts happened there. For instance - what would I dress up as if I was one of the La Rambla dresser-upper statue folks trying to make money. Today I saw a cowboy, an angel, some creepy Edwards Scissorhands looking guy, and a plain old statue guy. I just don't know what I'd be.
I then wandered back into town and headed towards my favorite restaurant - Organic. I had a fabulous lunch and reminisced about my first few days here staying in the neighborhood of El Raval.
Then I went and picked up stamps at a Tabbac shop and had a fun conversation with the guy behind the desk from Brasil. I've noticed lots of Brasilians here in fact.
I swerved through Barri Gotic up to L'Eixample, which I call the Example neighborhood. On the border of the two is Els Quatre Gats (or The Four Cats) which is a cafe that was Picasso's hang out. Picasso designed the menu for it back in the day, which I saw in the Picasso museum. I had a glass of wine and read my book. One of you will be receiving a postcard of Els Quatre Gats for obvious reasons.
Even though it wasn't a very eventful day in the grand scheme of things I was exhausted. So I headed back to the hostel for 45 minutes of shut-eye before meeting up with Nick (the friend of a friend of a friend) for some dinner and drinks. We met outside of the Casa Battlo and wandered up to the Gracia neighborhood which was fun - definitely less touristy and because it was a holiday, all of the locals were out and each little plaza was quite animated. Kim, Nick sends a hug.
Speaking of the holiday - I saw no children carrying around easter eggs. Quite disappointing.
A few random comments:
1) I've been sneezing a whole lot. It's either allergies or from all of the second hand smoke I've been inhaling. I doubt it's from the fresh Mediterranean air, and I don't feel like I'm getting sick.
2) The popo are very nice here - everywhere I turn they are helping tourists by giving them directions. Although they are also very strict about open containers. I've seen quite a few people get reprimanded, have to pour their beers out, or even getting fined. I almost brought my opened bottle of wine out but decided to drink it in my hostel once I got back. We don't cause trouble, we don't bother nobody.
Off to Granada in the morning. First a train to Madrid and then a train to Granada. Going to take most of the day. Only other option was to take an overnight train which I mentally wasn't prepared to do. Not by myself anyway.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Pasqua in Barcelona
The streets were much less crowded today and a lot of stores were closed for Easter Sunday. I checked out of the blah-hotel, had two cafes con leche at a corner shop, and then made my way to Barcelona home #3 in the L'Eixample neighborhood.
I then took the metro to Parc Guell. I would have walked but since I'm leaving on Tuesday morning I sadly feel like my time is limited here, so have started hopping on the metro every now and then instead of always taking nice long walks.
Parc Guell is another signature Gaudi creation. It's pretty far from downtown and was originally planned to be the setting of an upscale neighborhood. Apparently none of the rich bought into the idea at the time and the city turned it into a park instead. I had a nice little visit, read my book for a bit, people watched, and then headed back to the hustle and bustle of La Rambla for a bite to eat.
One of my favorite little spots when I don't want to have a sit-down lunch is at Maoz Vegetarian. It's basically a little deli or healthy fast-food. I get a pita with hummus and falafel and then they have lots of toppings you can add into it. I put these tasty curry spiced garbanzo beans in it. Funny - today a woman came in and asked if Maoz was vegetarian, meaning if the pita and what comes inside is vegetarian. The woman behind the counter said "Yes, this is 'Maoz Vegetarian' -everything is vegetarian". The customer still wanted clarification so the woman behind the counter repeated what she said but super slowly. I couldn't help but laugh out loud. The woman behind the counter looked at me, smiled, and rolled her eyes.
So, about this ring. I thought about it for the rest of the day yesterday and all this morning. I couldn't leave it up to fate. So I went back to Barri Gotic in search for that store. Knowing well that it might be closed, I thought I'd give it a try or at least find it so that I can write down where it is and come back tomorrow.
It took me forever, but I finally found the shop. Was happy it was open. I went straight to where the ring was and tried it on again. Looked at it in several different angles. Looked at it on me in the mirror. Yes, I want it. Then I got stuck with, well I should probably buy one of the several pairs of earrings that they have that would match it. Will it be easy to find earrings to go with it somewhere else? Probably. But I made a convincing case in my head and picked out, after probably 20 minutes of standing at this one display case, a pair of earrings. My 30th birthday present to myself.
After that purchase and a little skip in my step I walked to the start of the L'Eixample neighborhood walking tour. This hood is in the outskirts and it wasn't very happening because everything was closed today. It was actually a nice stroll and pleasant to not be dodging other tourists left and right.
After the walk was over I decided I wanted to try and find an open supermercat to buy a bottle of wine and some bread & cheese. With that fabulous Maoz late lunch I just wanted to chill at the hostel and snack. I finally found an open hole-in-the-wall supermercat and bought a bottle of wine. It's actually one listed in my guidebook as good. I had them open the bottle for me. Finding fresh pan and queso was a bit more challenging. I hovered at a restaurant's menu for a few minutes and one of the waiters came outside. I figured why not ask him if he could hook me up with some bread & cheese to go, even though a cheese plate is not on the menu. He happily obliged and wrapped some cheese & bread in tinfoil for me.
Walked back to my hostel and am enjoying my wine and have already finished my little snack. Was perfect and just enough, I didn't need a whole meal. Now the kicker is - will I manage to save half of this bottle for tomorrow. Only time will tell.
I didn't see much Easter stuff going on today. The friendly guy at the hostel front desk told me that tomorrow (Monday) is when the children get the big Easter chocolate eggs etc, so it's another holiday tomorrow. Wonder if it will be just as quiet as today or if I'll see lots of kiddos carrying around their chocolate egg(s) like I saw the women carrying around their rose(s) yesterday.
These days are flying by too quickly...
The one thing that I'm not going to be able to fit in this trip that I really wanted to is the Dali museum in the town of Figueres. Next time.
I then took the metro to Parc Guell. I would have walked but since I'm leaving on Tuesday morning I sadly feel like my time is limited here, so have started hopping on the metro every now and then instead of always taking nice long walks.
Parc Guell is another signature Gaudi creation. It's pretty far from downtown and was originally planned to be the setting of an upscale neighborhood. Apparently none of the rich bought into the idea at the time and the city turned it into a park instead. I had a nice little visit, read my book for a bit, people watched, and then headed back to the hustle and bustle of La Rambla for a bite to eat.
One of my favorite little spots when I don't want to have a sit-down lunch is at Maoz Vegetarian. It's basically a little deli or healthy fast-food. I get a pita with hummus and falafel and then they have lots of toppings you can add into it. I put these tasty curry spiced garbanzo beans in it. Funny - today a woman came in and asked if Maoz was vegetarian, meaning if the pita and what comes inside is vegetarian. The woman behind the counter said "Yes, this is 'Maoz Vegetarian' -everything is vegetarian". The customer still wanted clarification so the woman behind the counter repeated what she said but super slowly. I couldn't help but laugh out loud. The woman behind the counter looked at me, smiled, and rolled her eyes.
So, about this ring. I thought about it for the rest of the day yesterday and all this morning. I couldn't leave it up to fate. So I went back to Barri Gotic in search for that store. Knowing well that it might be closed, I thought I'd give it a try or at least find it so that I can write down where it is and come back tomorrow.
It took me forever, but I finally found the shop. Was happy it was open. I went straight to where the ring was and tried it on again. Looked at it in several different angles. Looked at it on me in the mirror. Yes, I want it. Then I got stuck with, well I should probably buy one of the several pairs of earrings that they have that would match it. Will it be easy to find earrings to go with it somewhere else? Probably. But I made a convincing case in my head and picked out, after probably 20 minutes of standing at this one display case, a pair of earrings. My 30th birthday present to myself.
After that purchase and a little skip in my step I walked to the start of the L'Eixample neighborhood walking tour. This hood is in the outskirts and it wasn't very happening because everything was closed today. It was actually a nice stroll and pleasant to not be dodging other tourists left and right.
After the walk was over I decided I wanted to try and find an open supermercat to buy a bottle of wine and some bread & cheese. With that fabulous Maoz late lunch I just wanted to chill at the hostel and snack. I finally found an open hole-in-the-wall supermercat and bought a bottle of wine. It's actually one listed in my guidebook as good. I had them open the bottle for me. Finding fresh pan and queso was a bit more challenging. I hovered at a restaurant's menu for a few minutes and one of the waiters came outside. I figured why not ask him if he could hook me up with some bread & cheese to go, even though a cheese plate is not on the menu. He happily obliged and wrapped some cheese & bread in tinfoil for me.
Walked back to my hostel and am enjoying my wine and have already finished my little snack. Was perfect and just enough, I didn't need a whole meal. Now the kicker is - will I manage to save half of this bottle for tomorrow. Only time will tell.
I didn't see much Easter stuff going on today. The friendly guy at the hostel front desk told me that tomorrow (Monday) is when the children get the big Easter chocolate eggs etc, so it's another holiday tomorrow. Wonder if it will be just as quiet as today or if I'll see lots of kiddos carrying around their chocolate egg(s) like I saw the women carrying around their rose(s) yesterday.
These days are flying by too quickly...
The one thing that I'm not going to be able to fit in this trip that I really wanted to is the Dali museum in the town of Figueres. Next time.
Sant Jordi
April 23rd is a special day in Cataluyna and am glad I was here during it. It is La Diada de Sant Jordi (St. George), who is the patron saint of Cataluyna.
This holiday is special for several reasons. It is in celebration of the day Sant Jordi died. It's also the same day that both Cervantes and Shakespeare died. There were signs all over for la diada de Sant Jordi, el dia de la rosa, and el dia del llibre. So it's kind of a blend between a less commercial Valentine's day and a love of literature day.
The tradition is for men to give significant women in their lives a single red rose. They give a rose to their mother, sister, girlfriend/wife etc. The women give the men a book in return. It can be any book - novel, poetry, travel, comic etc.
However, a local told me that they've modernized the tradition in a few ways:
1) men still give a single rose, but it's not always red. While the most popular was red, there were pink, white, yellow, and several roses dyed several other colors - like blue or even hideous tie die patterns.
2) some forward thinking men now also give a book to the women in their lives. It did seem a bit unfair to me that the women get a rose that will die in a few days while the men get to keep a book forever, so I was glad to hear that some men also give books nowadays.
The rose thing - apparently Sant Jordi killed a dragon and as blood spilled out of the dragon's mouth and hit the floor it turned into a rose. That's what a waiter told me.
It was very neat to walk around seeing women carrying their rose(s) and men carrying their book(s). Roses and books were for sale everywhere you turned. The gift giving was out in the open instead of at home which I found interesting. The women all day walked around with their rose(s) in hand or sticking out of their purse, instead of leaving it home in some water. Almost like a status symbol - how many roses did you get today?
I might have to incorporate the celebration of St. Jordi day into my next relationship.
While I didn't buy a rose or book yesterday, I did start Flaubert's Madame Bovary. I feel like I should be reading Cervantes' Don Quixote, but in the foreword of Madame Bovary it does say that Cervantes was one of Flaubert's favorite authors. So that made me feel a bit more legit.
This holiday is special for several reasons. It is in celebration of the day Sant Jordi died. It's also the same day that both Cervantes and Shakespeare died. There were signs all over for la diada de Sant Jordi, el dia de la rosa, and el dia del llibre. So it's kind of a blend between a less commercial Valentine's day and a love of literature day.
The tradition is for men to give significant women in their lives a single red rose. They give a rose to their mother, sister, girlfriend/wife etc. The women give the men a book in return. It can be any book - novel, poetry, travel, comic etc.
However, a local told me that they've modernized the tradition in a few ways:
1) men still give a single rose, but it's not always red. While the most popular was red, there were pink, white, yellow, and several roses dyed several other colors - like blue or even hideous tie die patterns.
2) some forward thinking men now also give a book to the women in their lives. It did seem a bit unfair to me that the women get a rose that will die in a few days while the men get to keep a book forever, so I was glad to hear that some men also give books nowadays.
The rose thing - apparently Sant Jordi killed a dragon and as blood spilled out of the dragon's mouth and hit the floor it turned into a rose. That's what a waiter told me.
It was very neat to walk around seeing women carrying their rose(s) and men carrying their book(s). Roses and books were for sale everywhere you turned. The gift giving was out in the open instead of at home which I found interesting. The women all day walked around with their rose(s) in hand or sticking out of their purse, instead of leaving it home in some water. Almost like a status symbol - how many roses did you get today?
I might have to incorporate the celebration of St. Jordi day into my next relationship.
While I didn't buy a rose or book yesterday, I did start Flaubert's Madame Bovary. I feel like I should be reading Cervantes' Don Quixote, but in the foreword of Madame Bovary it does say that Cervantes was one of Flaubert's favorite authors. So that made me feel a bit more legit.
Neighborhood walks
I got up early yesterday to check out, and the hostel folks nicely let me keep my bag there for free (places usually charge for left luggage) while I walked around during the day.
Knowing that the only guided tour of the Gran Teatre del Liceu (opera house) was at 10am I headed that way and booked a ticket. It was a nice little tour. Beautiful place, but I was more impressed by El Palau de la Musica Catalana.
I then went to the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) and did the walking tour from my guidebook. It prefaces the walking tour with - you will get lost - which I did. Many times. It's a little like Venice pathways and tiny streets without the canals. I walked in a few circles several times not on purpose. It got comical, but was a bit frustrating because it took so long to get anywhere because of all of the people out and about.
The first stop of the tour was the Catedral de Barcelona followed by several little plazas and other sights. I was walking by City Hall and noticed that they were having an open house - so I waited in line for a bit to go inside. A beautiful building with lots of impressive artwork. Reminded me that I haven't been into City Hall in San Francisco. I need to do that.
During the walk I hopped into a very cool unique jewelry store. I saw this ring that was calling my name but I couldn't rationalize spending the money on it. I've decided that if I come across that store again (not on purpose) I will buy it. I also hope I come across that damn key from the hostel. Not that I'll get my deposit back now, but I'm still so baffled as to where it went.
After the Barri Gotic walk I went back to the hostel to pick up my bag and check into the next place. All of the hostels were full so I booked a cheap hotel that is listed on hostelworld (the website I've been using to book hostels). The guy at the front desk was a total jerk. We had words. In two different languages but our tones and body language did the talking. Regardless, it was nice to sleep in an individual room and have an adjoining bathroom all to myself for a night.
Next up was the La Ribera and Born neighborhood walk. These two neighborhoods are similar to Barri Gotic but are a bit more fashion boutique centric. Also included in this walk was the Picasso museum and El Palau de la Musica Catalana, so I had already been by some of the streets.
Last item on my list for Saturday was to go check out the Font Magica. It's a light and fountain show that is choreographed to music. The fountain is in front of the Palacio Real. It was fun to sit and watch that. While it had a cheesy-ness factor to it, during some of the songs and fountain moves I got a little emotional. That doesn't happen often! To my dismay all of the songs were American.
I basically had to walk across town to get to the Font Magica. My feet were still barking from that walk so I took the metro back to the area where I'm staying which is right in Barri Gotic. A perk of the hotel for sure. But as opposed to their hostel counterparts - they didn't have wifi (or breakfast). Hence the delay in this blog post.
I then decided to try and go to a typical Catalan food restaurant for dinner. The one that I went to didn't have a vegetarian entree option, so I walked to another spot that was labelled as Mediterranean in my guidebook. Turns out they recently changed it to mostly Thai food. I had a delicious meal. My next big trip might have to be to Thailand. Is it wrong that with an entire summer of travels planned I'm already thinking about my next adventure?
Side note - while I'm overly aware of pickpocket potential, I feel very safe here.
Knowing that the only guided tour of the Gran Teatre del Liceu (opera house) was at 10am I headed that way and booked a ticket. It was a nice little tour. Beautiful place, but I was more impressed by El Palau de la Musica Catalana.
I then went to the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) and did the walking tour from my guidebook. It prefaces the walking tour with - you will get lost - which I did. Many times. It's a little like Venice pathways and tiny streets without the canals. I walked in a few circles several times not on purpose. It got comical, but was a bit frustrating because it took so long to get anywhere because of all of the people out and about.
The first stop of the tour was the Catedral de Barcelona followed by several little plazas and other sights. I was walking by City Hall and noticed that they were having an open house - so I waited in line for a bit to go inside. A beautiful building with lots of impressive artwork. Reminded me that I haven't been into City Hall in San Francisco. I need to do that.
During the walk I hopped into a very cool unique jewelry store. I saw this ring that was calling my name but I couldn't rationalize spending the money on it. I've decided that if I come across that store again (not on purpose) I will buy it. I also hope I come across that damn key from the hostel. Not that I'll get my deposit back now, but I'm still so baffled as to where it went.
After the Barri Gotic walk I went back to the hostel to pick up my bag and check into the next place. All of the hostels were full so I booked a cheap hotel that is listed on hostelworld (the website I've been using to book hostels). The guy at the front desk was a total jerk. We had words. In two different languages but our tones and body language did the talking. Regardless, it was nice to sleep in an individual room and have an adjoining bathroom all to myself for a night.
Next up was the La Ribera and Born neighborhood walk. These two neighborhoods are similar to Barri Gotic but are a bit more fashion boutique centric. Also included in this walk was the Picasso museum and El Palau de la Musica Catalana, so I had already been by some of the streets.
Last item on my list for Saturday was to go check out the Font Magica. It's a light and fountain show that is choreographed to music. The fountain is in front of the Palacio Real. It was fun to sit and watch that. While it had a cheesy-ness factor to it, during some of the songs and fountain moves I got a little emotional. That doesn't happen often! To my dismay all of the songs were American.
I basically had to walk across town to get to the Font Magica. My feet were still barking from that walk so I took the metro back to the area where I'm staying which is right in Barri Gotic. A perk of the hotel for sure. But as opposed to their hostel counterparts - they didn't have wifi (or breakfast). Hence the delay in this blog post.
I then decided to try and go to a typical Catalan food restaurant for dinner. The one that I went to didn't have a vegetarian entree option, so I walked to another spot that was labelled as Mediterranean in my guidebook. Turns out they recently changed it to mostly Thai food. I had a delicious meal. My next big trip might have to be to Thailand. Is it wrong that with an entire summer of travels planned I'm already thinking about my next adventure?
Side note - while I'm overly aware of pickpocket potential, I feel very safe here.
Saturday, April 23, 2011
Good Friday
I managed to sleep in this morning which was fabulous. My roommates were all passed out and I knew they would be in bed most of the day. I couldn't help but thinking of the phrase my mom always used to say to me "Don't sleep the day away!"
I walked over to El Palau de la Musica Catalana, a concert hall that is another modernista masterpiece, and stood in the line. When I got up to the ticket office they said all the English tours were sold out for the day and I could book for tomorrow. I looked up at the screen and it did say "1 ticket left" so I booked that one for 3pm. Perk of travelling alone. I could tell people around me were jealous.
It's an hour guided tour with lots of facts about the venue, history, and its ornate decorations. It's owned by the Orfeo Catala, a private choir group, and they don't allow you to take photos. So I bought a little book which has photos of some of the gorgeous highlights. If they did allow photos I probably would have spent the entire tour focused on picture taking, so maybe it was a good restriction.
I then walked to the Picasso museum and stood in the longest line yet. It was rainy today so everyone was focusing on indoor sights. Besides the long line of tourists outside, you could walk right by this museum tucked into the Gothic Quarter. I'm excited to do my neighborhood walks of the Barri Gotic & La Ribera tomorrow. I haven't explored those neighborhoods enough yet, but I can tell I'm going to love them. They have lots of character with tiny little winding streets. Will get lost for sure. In a good way.
On the walk back to my hostel I encountered a religious procession of some kind for Good Friday I assume. Was cool. It's fun to be here during a religious holiday.
Am about to meet up with a friend of a friend of a friend for tapas and drinks. Should be fun. He's a Brit who has lived here for several years.
I walked over to El Palau de la Musica Catalana, a concert hall that is another modernista masterpiece, and stood in the line. When I got up to the ticket office they said all the English tours were sold out for the day and I could book for tomorrow. I looked up at the screen and it did say "1 ticket left" so I booked that one for 3pm. Perk of travelling alone. I could tell people around me were jealous.
It's an hour guided tour with lots of facts about the venue, history, and its ornate decorations. It's owned by the Orfeo Catala, a private choir group, and they don't allow you to take photos. So I bought a little book which has photos of some of the gorgeous highlights. If they did allow photos I probably would have spent the entire tour focused on picture taking, so maybe it was a good restriction.
I then walked to the Picasso museum and stood in the longest line yet. It was rainy today so everyone was focusing on indoor sights. Besides the long line of tourists outside, you could walk right by this museum tucked into the Gothic Quarter. I'm excited to do my neighborhood walks of the Barri Gotic & La Ribera tomorrow. I haven't explored those neighborhoods enough yet, but I can tell I'm going to love them. They have lots of character with tiny little winding streets. Will get lost for sure. In a good way.
On the walk back to my hostel I encountered a religious procession of some kind for Good Friday I assume. Was cool. It's fun to be here during a religious holiday.
Am about to meet up with a friend of a friend of a friend for tapas and drinks. Should be fun. He's a Brit who has lived here for several years.
Friday, April 22, 2011
Caramba
Ay caramba!
My little hop across the street was quite fun. Caramba (tapas fusion and cockteleria) was still quite empty when I got there at 9:30pm. Which turned out to be a great thing because I got to have great conversations with the bartender and waiter.
I ordered a glass of vino tinto and two croquettes - one with mushroom and something and another of blue cheese. After I ordered the waiter came back a few minutes later apologizing that they were out of both those croquettes - and those were the only two croquettes that they were out of. And the only vegetarian ones. So the waiter recommended the next best two veg tapas - a zucchini carpaccio and the patatas bravas. I told him that I'd have the zucchini but that I've already have plenty of angry potatoes. He replied that these are the best in Barcelona, possibly Spain. I took him up on that challenge and ordered those as well. Turns out they were indeed much better than any of the other ones I've had.
I read my Toni Morrison book and chilled out, talking to both the waiter and bartender off and on for a few hours. The bartender is from Portugal so we spoke in Portuguese and he shared that he thinks it is much easier for a Portuguese to understand a Brasilian, and that many Brasilian tourists can't understand him. I could but he explained the only reason I could was because he was speaking super slowly.
The waiter was my favorite. Originally from outside Madrid he's lived in Barcelona for 10 years. While he prefers the city of Barcelona, he said that it is harder to make friends here - that people are more standoff-ish.
I finished my book (Song of Solomon) and gave it to Ruben (the waiter). He made me write an inscription inside and then he gave me his business card with his email address. So nice. He's a lifeguard, part-time waiter, but his start-up is a social network style travel agency. Anyways, the book giving will make more sense after my Saturday blog post. Stay tuned.
And by the way, it was a bit hard to get into but I did really like the book. Take that Irish.
I'm in my pjs typing as my three female roommates are dolling themselves up for a night on the town. They are leaving the hostel at 1am to head to the club. Making me feel very old. It's a mixed dorm but luckily it's all females. Lucky in the sense that I can change in my room, always nice. Mixed dorms are generally cheaper hence that choice all of the time.
Anyways, they just finished up a semester abroad in London and are travelling a bit together before they all head home. One is from Los Angeles, one from Minnesota (close to where we lived in the 90s) and the other from San Francisco! She lives a mere 3 blocks from me. Crazy.
Great day. Great night. Time for bed.
My little hop across the street was quite fun. Caramba (tapas fusion and cockteleria) was still quite empty when I got there at 9:30pm. Which turned out to be a great thing because I got to have great conversations with the bartender and waiter.
I ordered a glass of vino tinto and two croquettes - one with mushroom and something and another of blue cheese. After I ordered the waiter came back a few minutes later apologizing that they were out of both those croquettes - and those were the only two croquettes that they were out of. And the only vegetarian ones. So the waiter recommended the next best two veg tapas - a zucchini carpaccio and the patatas bravas. I told him that I'd have the zucchini but that I've already have plenty of angry potatoes. He replied that these are the best in Barcelona, possibly Spain. I took him up on that challenge and ordered those as well. Turns out they were indeed much better than any of the other ones I've had.
I read my Toni Morrison book and chilled out, talking to both the waiter and bartender off and on for a few hours. The bartender is from Portugal so we spoke in Portuguese and he shared that he thinks it is much easier for a Portuguese to understand a Brasilian, and that many Brasilian tourists can't understand him. I could but he explained the only reason I could was because he was speaking super slowly.
The waiter was my favorite. Originally from outside Madrid he's lived in Barcelona for 10 years. While he prefers the city of Barcelona, he said that it is harder to make friends here - that people are more standoff-ish.
I finished my book (Song of Solomon) and gave it to Ruben (the waiter). He made me write an inscription inside and then he gave me his business card with his email address. So nice. He's a lifeguard, part-time waiter, but his start-up is a social network style travel agency. Anyways, the book giving will make more sense after my Saturday blog post. Stay tuned.
And by the way, it was a bit hard to get into but I did really like the book. Take that Irish.
I'm in my pjs typing as my three female roommates are dolling themselves up for a night on the town. They are leaving the hostel at 1am to head to the club. Making me feel very old. It's a mixed dorm but luckily it's all females. Lucky in the sense that I can change in my room, always nice. Mixed dorms are generally cheaper hence that choice all of the time.
Anyways, they just finished up a semester abroad in London and are travelling a bit together before they all head home. One is from Los Angeles, one from Minnesota (close to where we lived in the 90s) and the other from San Francisco! She lives a mere 3 blocks from me. Crazy.
Great day. Great night. Time for bed.
Montserrat
I decided to take the day trip to Montserrat today for two reasons: 1) weather prediction was rain and 2) I wanted to go there as far away from Easter Sunday & their Holy Day of Our Lady of Montserrat on the 27th. It was crowded enough for me today.
It's an hour train ride to the base of Montserrat from Barcelona. You then either take a suspended gondola or little train up to the top of the mountain where the Benedictine monastery is (founded in 1025 A.D.). I told the vendor guy at the Espanya station in Barcelona that I wanted to go up via the gondola. I got off at the train stop for the gondola, stood in line only to find out that my ticket was for the little train (or cremallera). The two are the same price but you apparently have to specify which one you want to do when you buy the ticket. Which I thought I had. Oh well. My two options were to pay 6 euros and go up the gondola, or wait 30 minutes for the next train to take me the next stop where I would catch the Montserrat cremallera. I decided to do the latter. I felt better that the same exact thing from the same vendor happened to several other people.
As soon as I got to the top I headed for the Basilica where the Escolania de Montserrat sing every day at 1pm. They are one of the oldest boy's choirs in Europe (14th century). Since I was alone I managed to maneuver myself into a spot in the 7th row. It was a short and sweet little performance, glad I saw it. The Basilica was gorgeous and very ornate with gold, the way I like it.
After the choir performance I went to the little museum next door. I love museums that have a clear path where you walk through every room to another room. No concerns of missing something by bypassing a room or two. They had a range or art in there and a few by Picasso, Monet, Degas, and Dali.
I then decided to eat lunch overlooking the cliffs. Followed by a trip on a funicular (new word I learned) to see the Santa Cova. So on the little map it says 'funicular to Santa Cova' and then a '(40 mins)' next to it, so I assumed it was a 40 minute funicular ride. You can imagine my confusion when it stopped after 3 minutes. I then had to walk/hike up and down the cliff side on a path to the Santa Cova. That took 40 minutes. While I much appreciated the mini hike I wasn't mentally prepared for it. Got a little winded, it's true.
The Santa Cova is a 17th century chapel built in the shape of a cross, where La Moreneta (Virgin of Montserrat/black Madonna) was allegedly found. It was a cute little visit. Took some photos.
I was getting a bit tired and decided not to head down the other funicular to trek to Sant Joan and Sant Jeroni. I also decided not to stand in the long line to see La Moreneta. I could see the statue and watch the tourists walk by and take photos of her while the boys were singing.
In the end taking the cremallera was the better option. It's less crowded and on the way back to Barcelona you get picked up first by the train, so I got a seat. And passed out. Win win.
After I got back to Barcelona with my bag in a firm grip I walked to the Mercat de La Boqueria, which is apparently Europe's largest and most dynamic food market. There are 300+ stalls selling everything from fruits & veggies, chocolate, seafood, meats, cheeses, you name it they had it. I picked up a little portion of fruit salad and wandered up La Rambla on a mission.
I brought one pair of pants (jeans) and Barcelona is sadly on the chillier side. With my skirts collecting dust in my bag I decided to try and find a pair of leggings to wear underneath them. Mission accomplished. Will sport that look tomorrow in hopes that I'll be just as warm as in my jeans. Sadly the colder weather here most likely means that I won't get to cross nude beach off my list. Not yet anyway.
Am about to head out for a glass of wine and a croquette or two across the street. I wanted to go there earlier but it was too empty, need to wait for the Spanish to get hungry.
I need a glass of wine after what just happened. A hostel goer put something in the microwave in the common room (there's no kitchen here) and I didn't pay attention to what and forgot about it. After a few minutes an explosion happened so loud I thought something came crashing through the window. Heart. beating. a. bit. fast. She just learned the lesson that eggs explode in the microwave. I'm pretty sure I have egg on my feet.
I'd like to end tonight's entry on a little something I read in my guidebook today about Gaudi:
"Play the violin", the visionary architect Antoni Gaudi once told a client who was distressed to find no place for his piano in the unorthodox form of his La Pedrera apartment."
He was a spicy one. I like it!
It's an hour train ride to the base of Montserrat from Barcelona. You then either take a suspended gondola or little train up to the top of the mountain where the Benedictine monastery is (founded in 1025 A.D.). I told the vendor guy at the Espanya station in Barcelona that I wanted to go up via the gondola. I got off at the train stop for the gondola, stood in line only to find out that my ticket was for the little train (or cremallera). The two are the same price but you apparently have to specify which one you want to do when you buy the ticket. Which I thought I had. Oh well. My two options were to pay 6 euros and go up the gondola, or wait 30 minutes for the next train to take me the next stop where I would catch the Montserrat cremallera. I decided to do the latter. I felt better that the same exact thing from the same vendor happened to several other people.
As soon as I got to the top I headed for the Basilica where the Escolania de Montserrat sing every day at 1pm. They are one of the oldest boy's choirs in Europe (14th century). Since I was alone I managed to maneuver myself into a spot in the 7th row. It was a short and sweet little performance, glad I saw it. The Basilica was gorgeous and very ornate with gold, the way I like it.
After the choir performance I went to the little museum next door. I love museums that have a clear path where you walk through every room to another room. No concerns of missing something by bypassing a room or two. They had a range or art in there and a few by Picasso, Monet, Degas, and Dali.
I then decided to eat lunch overlooking the cliffs. Followed by a trip on a funicular (new word I learned) to see the Santa Cova. So on the little map it says 'funicular to Santa Cova' and then a '(40 mins)' next to it, so I assumed it was a 40 minute funicular ride. You can imagine my confusion when it stopped after 3 minutes. I then had to walk/hike up and down the cliff side on a path to the Santa Cova. That took 40 minutes. While I much appreciated the mini hike I wasn't mentally prepared for it. Got a little winded, it's true.
The Santa Cova is a 17th century chapel built in the shape of a cross, where La Moreneta (Virgin of Montserrat/black Madonna) was allegedly found. It was a cute little visit. Took some photos.
I was getting a bit tired and decided not to head down the other funicular to trek to Sant Joan and Sant Jeroni. I also decided not to stand in the long line to see La Moreneta. I could see the statue and watch the tourists walk by and take photos of her while the boys were singing.
In the end taking the cremallera was the better option. It's less crowded and on the way back to Barcelona you get picked up first by the train, so I got a seat. And passed out. Win win.
After I got back to Barcelona with my bag in a firm grip I walked to the Mercat de La Boqueria, which is apparently Europe's largest and most dynamic food market. There are 300+ stalls selling everything from fruits & veggies, chocolate, seafood, meats, cheeses, you name it they had it. I picked up a little portion of fruit salad and wandered up La Rambla on a mission.
I brought one pair of pants (jeans) and Barcelona is sadly on the chillier side. With my skirts collecting dust in my bag I decided to try and find a pair of leggings to wear underneath them. Mission accomplished. Will sport that look tomorrow in hopes that I'll be just as warm as in my jeans. Sadly the colder weather here most likely means that I won't get to cross nude beach off my list. Not yet anyway.
Am about to head out for a glass of wine and a croquette or two across the street. I wanted to go there earlier but it was too empty, need to wait for the Spanish to get hungry.
I need a glass of wine after what just happened. A hostel goer put something in the microwave in the common room (there's no kitchen here) and I didn't pay attention to what and forgot about it. After a few minutes an explosion happened so loud I thought something came crashing through the window. Heart. beating. a. bit. fast. She just learned the lesson that eggs explode in the microwave. I'm pretty sure I have egg on my feet.
I'd like to end tonight's entry on a little something I read in my guidebook today about Gaudi:
"Play the violin", the visionary architect Antoni Gaudi once told a client who was distressed to find no place for his piano in the unorthodox form of his La Pedrera apartment."
He was a spicy one. I like it!
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Gaudi
Today was a fabulous day in Barcelona.
I first walked to La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's unfinished legacy. It's a massive cathedral that is simply put - amazing. It is unfinished because Gaudi got hit by a tram and passed out. No one helped him for a while because they assumed he was a beggar (didn't have an ID on him and had an artsy neglected appearance wearing old clothes). If only they had helped him sooner. However, he still wouldn't have been able to finish La Sagrada Familia in his lifetime. It's still under construction and expected to be finished in 2026.
There weren't lots of people walking towards it so I was hopeful it wouldn't be too crowded. But once I got into eyesight of it I could see all the tour buses parked in front and loads of people walking out from the metro. Lazy bums. I'll give them that it was a far walk, but still. The line wrapped around the cathedral so I got a nice view of the exterior while waiting in line. It ended up only taking 30 minutes to get in which was a nice surprise. I had a great visit there and was in complete awe. Google it for a glimpse if you haven't seen it or photos of it before.
Side note - while in line a woman was walking through passing out flyers for "Elvis Presley - The King Story...Directly of Las Vegas!!!" I think I'll skip it since Ang, Gabe, and I are taking my dad and Connie to see the Viva Elvis Cirque de Soleil show in Vegas in June for their 60ths. :)
I then walked to La Pedrera, Gaudi's apartment building officially called Casa Mila but better known as La Pedrera. That line was shorter but took longer to get inside. I had a nice chat in line with a woman from Albany, NY here as a parent chaperone for a school trip of 33 15-year-olds. She decided to ditch the group and hit up La Pedrera. She was really nice and we talked the whole way in line and kept running into each other inside and chatting some more. She told me that yesterday there was a fire in La Sagrada Familia and they had to evacuate everyone. How angry would I have been if I had to leave after waiting in that line.
In case you are curious like me, this is from Catholic Online (who knew): "An alleged arsonist set fire to Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) Basilica in Barcelona, Spain, midmorning on April 19. The blaze damaged the sacristy in the basilica´s crypt and forced evacuation amid dense smoke. More than 1,000 visitors were evacuated and several were treated for smoke inhalation. A 65-year-old man with a lighter still in hand was restrained by a group of ten tourists and turned over to local police, reported the Spanish daily La Razon."
Anyways, La Pedrera was very cool. It's an apartment building but no one lives there. There are some offices there but basically it's a tourist destination. The outside is made of limestone and wavy. All of his work is very nature-esque, whether it looks like water, ocean-life, bones, animals etc. The roof was very cool with a bunch of warrior looking chimneys and some statues that look Darth Vader like. My photos won't do it justice, but I'll upload them when I get home. After the roof visit you go to the attic, which they've turned into a Gaudi museum. And then down to an example apartment which was huge and so fancy. I'd live there.
Next stop was the Casa Battlo. It was cool to see in the La Pedrera attic a photo of the Casa Battlo before and after Gaudi remodeled the facade in 1906. It is thought to represent the legend of Sant Jordi and his dragon. Casa Battlo barely had a line, probably because it was the most expensive of the three places. It is privately owned by a family and apparently (according to the included-in-the-price audioguide) they spend their own money on the upkeep of the building. It was very beautiful with colorful ceramic tiles, colored glass windows, and dragon spine looking stairwells and balconies. My photos won't and my words aren't doing it justice.
Side note of good news - I haven't always been able to use my student card, but today all three places accepted my student status and I got in at a discounted rate. A few places in Madrid (and all of the places in Italy) required that you be an EU student and under the age of 26 in order to get the discount.
I had so much fun taking photos in all three Gaudi places. I think I was so photo-happy because all three spots felt like a museum, but unlike a museum you can actually take photos. Also it's such unique architecture. I can't believe how "different" it is now, and to think of how he paved the way back then is just cool. I imagine he had some resistance and criticism, but not sure. I need to educate myself a bit more about Gaudi and his work.
Next door to the Casa Battlo is the Casa Amatiller which you can visit the ground floor for free, and then the Casa Lleo Morera which you can't visit. All three were designed by different architects and they make up what is known as the Block of Discord.
I then walked over to Tapas 24 for a snack (guidebook reco). I had two glasses of cava (sparking wine) and a tapa. Darcy, they only had one croquette that had ham in it, BUT I did see a place close to my hostel that does have a few non-meat ones. I will try those tomorrow!
After that tasty treat I walked down Rambla de Catalunya, La Rambla, and headed back to my hostel to relax, type up this blog entry, and watch the Barcelona/Madrid game in the hostel common room. Which is what I'm doing now. There are lots of people coming and going and I have my iPod in so that I don't have to listen to too much yakking, but it's low enough so I can eavesdrop on the sly. Ugh tourists. ;)
Two stories though that were earbud removal worthy were first-hand accounts of two different hostel guests. The first one - she was in the train station this morning (the one where I arrived in from Madrid) and a man came up and asked her if she needed help with directions as she was looking at her map. Only when she got to the hostel and went for her wallet to pay did she realize it was missing. The second one - she was in a crowded metro (also today) and felt her bag move, turned around, and saw a woman walking away and slip out of the train as the doors were closing. Wallet gone.
That got the whole room talking of other stories in restaurants, coffee shops etc. The Americans in here have been going to Starbucks everyday (of course they have...) and said that there are signs all over the walls in a few of them that say "please watch your stuff, this area is worked by professional thieves".
Turns out it sadly happens all the time, which is mentioned in my guidebook repeatedly and ingrained in my head by Alegria. Andrew also warned me that he experienced people sticking their hands in his pockets three times here. A few times yesterday I put my backpack on my back and knew Alegria would be shaking her head so I moved it in front of me. I feel like a tool walking like that, but after hearing all these stories today, I'm ok looking like a tool.
I first walked to La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's unfinished legacy. It's a massive cathedral that is simply put - amazing. It is unfinished because Gaudi got hit by a tram and passed out. No one helped him for a while because they assumed he was a beggar (didn't have an ID on him and had an artsy neglected appearance wearing old clothes). If only they had helped him sooner. However, he still wouldn't have been able to finish La Sagrada Familia in his lifetime. It's still under construction and expected to be finished in 2026.
There weren't lots of people walking towards it so I was hopeful it wouldn't be too crowded. But once I got into eyesight of it I could see all the tour buses parked in front and loads of people walking out from the metro. Lazy bums. I'll give them that it was a far walk, but still. The line wrapped around the cathedral so I got a nice view of the exterior while waiting in line. It ended up only taking 30 minutes to get in which was a nice surprise. I had a great visit there and was in complete awe. Google it for a glimpse if you haven't seen it or photos of it before.
Side note - while in line a woman was walking through passing out flyers for "Elvis Presley - The King Story...Directly of Las Vegas!!!" I think I'll skip it since Ang, Gabe, and I are taking my dad and Connie to see the Viva Elvis Cirque de Soleil show in Vegas in June for their 60ths. :)
I then walked to La Pedrera, Gaudi's apartment building officially called Casa Mila but better known as La Pedrera. That line was shorter but took longer to get inside. I had a nice chat in line with a woman from Albany, NY here as a parent chaperone for a school trip of 33 15-year-olds. She decided to ditch the group and hit up La Pedrera. She was really nice and we talked the whole way in line and kept running into each other inside and chatting some more. She told me that yesterday there was a fire in La Sagrada Familia and they had to evacuate everyone. How angry would I have been if I had to leave after waiting in that line.
In case you are curious like me, this is from Catholic Online (who knew): "An alleged arsonist set fire to Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) Basilica in Barcelona, Spain, midmorning on April 19. The blaze damaged the sacristy in the basilica´s crypt and forced evacuation amid dense smoke. More than 1,000 visitors were evacuated and several were treated for smoke inhalation. A 65-year-old man with a lighter still in hand was restrained by a group of ten tourists and turned over to local police, reported the Spanish daily La Razon."
Anyways, La Pedrera was very cool. It's an apartment building but no one lives there. There are some offices there but basically it's a tourist destination. The outside is made of limestone and wavy. All of his work is very nature-esque, whether it looks like water, ocean-life, bones, animals etc. The roof was very cool with a bunch of warrior looking chimneys and some statues that look Darth Vader like. My photos won't do it justice, but I'll upload them when I get home. After the roof visit you go to the attic, which they've turned into a Gaudi museum. And then down to an example apartment which was huge and so fancy. I'd live there.
Next stop was the Casa Battlo. It was cool to see in the La Pedrera attic a photo of the Casa Battlo before and after Gaudi remodeled the facade in 1906. It is thought to represent the legend of Sant Jordi and his dragon. Casa Battlo barely had a line, probably because it was the most expensive of the three places. It is privately owned by a family and apparently (according to the included-in-the-price audioguide) they spend their own money on the upkeep of the building. It was very beautiful with colorful ceramic tiles, colored glass windows, and dragon spine looking stairwells and balconies. My photos won't and my words aren't doing it justice.
Side note of good news - I haven't always been able to use my student card, but today all three places accepted my student status and I got in at a discounted rate. A few places in Madrid (and all of the places in Italy) required that you be an EU student and under the age of 26 in order to get the discount.
I had so much fun taking photos in all three Gaudi places. I think I was so photo-happy because all three spots felt like a museum, but unlike a museum you can actually take photos. Also it's such unique architecture. I can't believe how "different" it is now, and to think of how he paved the way back then is just cool. I imagine he had some resistance and criticism, but not sure. I need to educate myself a bit more about Gaudi and his work.
Next door to the Casa Battlo is the Casa Amatiller which you can visit the ground floor for free, and then the Casa Lleo Morera which you can't visit. All three were designed by different architects and they make up what is known as the Block of Discord.
I then walked over to Tapas 24 for a snack (guidebook reco). I had two glasses of cava (sparking wine) and a tapa. Darcy, they only had one croquette that had ham in it, BUT I did see a place close to my hostel that does have a few non-meat ones. I will try those tomorrow!
After that tasty treat I walked down Rambla de Catalunya, La Rambla, and headed back to my hostel to relax, type up this blog entry, and watch the Barcelona/Madrid game in the hostel common room. Which is what I'm doing now. There are lots of people coming and going and I have my iPod in so that I don't have to listen to too much yakking, but it's low enough so I can eavesdrop on the sly. Ugh tourists. ;)
Two stories though that were earbud removal worthy were first-hand accounts of two different hostel guests. The first one - she was in the train station this morning (the one where I arrived in from Madrid) and a man came up and asked her if she needed help with directions as she was looking at her map. Only when she got to the hostel and went for her wallet to pay did she realize it was missing. The second one - she was in a crowded metro (also today) and felt her bag move, turned around, and saw a woman walking away and slip out of the train as the doors were closing. Wallet gone.
That got the whole room talking of other stories in restaurants, coffee shops etc. The Americans in here have been going to Starbucks everyday (of course they have...) and said that there are signs all over the walls in a few of them that say "please watch your stuff, this area is worked by professional thieves".
Turns out it sadly happens all the time, which is mentioned in my guidebook repeatedly and ingrained in my head by Alegria. Andrew also warned me that he experienced people sticking their hands in his pockets three times here. A few times yesterday I put my backpack on my back and knew Alegria would be shaking her head so I moved it in front of me. I feel like a tool walking like that, but after hearing all these stories today, I'm ok looking like a tool.
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Cata-what?
After my fun washing expedition in the sink with my cute little Tide packets Ang found for me (thank you!) I decided to wander around to get my bearings. Well I then realized I couldn't find the tiny little key the hostel had just given me. After about 20 minutes of searching everything in my possession I couldn't find it. Not a good sign when you lose the key before you even set foot outside the hostel.
I fessed up the loss to the front desk and they gave me a new one. Worst case is if I don't find the other one I don't get my 10 euro deposit back. The Madrid hostels had it right - the first one gave the keys to you on a huge ridiculous lanyard, the second one didn't give you keys at all, and the third gave you this watch type thing that you had to wear. Was actually quite fancy, it buzzed you into your room, the common areas, and even opened your individual locker.
After that I walked to La Rambla - the large walking shopping street that cuts through the city. Frustrated and a bit hungry I wasn't prepared for the hordes of people I encountered. I quickly ducked into the first cafe I saw - Cafe de la Opera right across from the Liceu Opera house. They had seating outside but I needed something a bit less stimulating. The waiter asked me if I wanted a regular or grande cerveza. I replied "grande please" and managed to relax a bit. I had a snack too but nothing to write home about.
I then walked down La Rambla to the Port Vell. Walked across La Rambla de Mar and then looped around all the boats, a shopping mall, the aquarium, a Imax theatre over to the Barceloneta neighborhood. Kept walking along the beach a ways until me feet started getting tired, and then started heading back inland by making a huge loop. It was a good 3 hour stroll. It was quite chilly, and amidst all of us in jackets and scarves, an older gentleman in his birthday suit was casually walking around. He turned quite a few heads.
On the way home I decided I should eat dinner before getting back to the hostel because if I took a nap I wouldn't want to get back up. I went to Organic, a vegetarian restaurant recommended in my guidebook. You serve yourself soup and salad, and then have an option of four entrees (I chose the vegetarian paella and OMG it was delicious.) And I don't use the term OMG. That's how good it was.
There are actually lots of vegetarian restaurants here. I'll continue to eat at traditional places, but I think I'll be happiest if I dine at veggie restaurants instead of getting the one veggie option at a regular restaurant that is usually subpar. I'm going to try and eat some fish while I'm in Barcelona as well, but no promises.
Was happy to realize that it was a short walk back to my hostel from there. During the walk back a guy started talking to me across the tiny little alley street. I answered hello and kept walking, as did he. He then asked me where I was from. I replied and kept walking. He was harmless but I just wasn't in the mood to be nice. I then put my glasses on (that were on top of my head) in hopes that would turn him away. Instead he said "now you look even more beautiful, I like a woman with glasses". Hmmm no luck. I wonder what he would have said if I had whipped out my retainer.
As soon as I got back to the hostel I asked the front desk if anyone found my key. Not yet. I'll turn my bag upside down again tomorrow. Am perplexed.
P.S. I think I'll focus on my mediocre Spanish and not try to tackle Catalan. I can do so much.
I fessed up the loss to the front desk and they gave me a new one. Worst case is if I don't find the other one I don't get my 10 euro deposit back. The Madrid hostels had it right - the first one gave the keys to you on a huge ridiculous lanyard, the second one didn't give you keys at all, and the third gave you this watch type thing that you had to wear. Was actually quite fancy, it buzzed you into your room, the common areas, and even opened your individual locker.
After that I walked to La Rambla - the large walking shopping street that cuts through the city. Frustrated and a bit hungry I wasn't prepared for the hordes of people I encountered. I quickly ducked into the first cafe I saw - Cafe de la Opera right across from the Liceu Opera house. They had seating outside but I needed something a bit less stimulating. The waiter asked me if I wanted a regular or grande cerveza. I replied "grande please" and managed to relax a bit. I had a snack too but nothing to write home about.
I then walked down La Rambla to the Port Vell. Walked across La Rambla de Mar and then looped around all the boats, a shopping mall, the aquarium, a Imax theatre over to the Barceloneta neighborhood. Kept walking along the beach a ways until me feet started getting tired, and then started heading back inland by making a huge loop. It was a good 3 hour stroll. It was quite chilly, and amidst all of us in jackets and scarves, an older gentleman in his birthday suit was casually walking around. He turned quite a few heads.
On the way home I decided I should eat dinner before getting back to the hostel because if I took a nap I wouldn't want to get back up. I went to Organic, a vegetarian restaurant recommended in my guidebook. You serve yourself soup and salad, and then have an option of four entrees (I chose the vegetarian paella and OMG it was delicious.) And I don't use the term OMG. That's how good it was.
There are actually lots of vegetarian restaurants here. I'll continue to eat at traditional places, but I think I'll be happiest if I dine at veggie restaurants instead of getting the one veggie option at a regular restaurant that is usually subpar. I'm going to try and eat some fish while I'm in Barcelona as well, but no promises.
Was happy to realize that it was a short walk back to my hostel from there. During the walk back a guy started talking to me across the tiny little alley street. I answered hello and kept walking, as did he. He then asked me where I was from. I replied and kept walking. He was harmless but I just wasn't in the mood to be nice. I then put my glasses on (that were on top of my head) in hopes that would turn him away. Instead he said "now you look even more beautiful, I like a woman with glasses". Hmmm no luck. I wonder what he would have said if I had whipped out my retainer.
As soon as I got back to the hostel I asked the front desk if anyone found my key. Not yet. I'll turn my bag upside down again tomorrow. Am perplexed.
P.S. I think I'll focus on my mediocre Spanish and not try to tackle Catalan. I can do so much.
Madrid to Barcelona
Luckily four of my roommates left before I did this morning and the other one was already awake, so I could turn on the light and not worry about being quiet while showering and packing up.
I got to the Atocha station an hour early, because I'm cool like that. I sat by the little rainforest they have in there and watched the water turtles swim and putz around. I want a turtle someday. A land one though. Too bad I can't import/smuggle the ones we have at home in Brasil.
Once they displayed the platform my train was leaving from I headed to find it upstairs. For the record there are ticket vending machines around the station, I just didn't see them the first day. I also probably needed to talk to someone cause I had several questions so it all worked out.
Anyways, they make you put your bags through a conveyor belt xray machine. But you don't have to walk through a metal detector. That I don't really understand. One item that was listed as not allowed is a pocket knife. They luckily didn't notice or didn't care about my swiss army knife - it has been so handy this trip. Shout out to dad who bought it for me on one of his business trips a super long time ago (thanks dad!). I might put it in my pocket the next time I train travel, just in case they want to confiscate it from my bag.
The train was swanky and very comfortable. Each seat had earphones where you could watch a movie, today's feature was Toy Story 3. I decided to stare out at the beautiful countryside instead. Also played hearts on my netbook. We only made one stop before getting to Barcelona. At the stop I was admiring an adorable little boy out the window. Adorable until he sat behind me. Luckily my iPod was fully charged. Someone kept farting as well, am pretty sure it was the guy sitting next to me. Never fun.
I managed to stay awake all 3 hours - proud Jenna?! For those of you who have never had the pleasure of taking a plane, train, or bus trip with me - I tend to pass out quite quickly. Not very good company in that regard. Other than that I'm perfect. :)
I also wore my retainer the whole trip. Yes, I am the proud new owner of a retainer. It's bright green. I wanted to fix the movement my teeth had done since I had braces in middle school, and keep it that way. While I feel like everyone is staring at me sometimes, let them stare. I'll never see these fools again, I'll have pretty teeth, AND my orthodontist won't give me a lecture when I have my appointment the day after I get back to San Francisco.
I just checked into my first Barcelona hostel, a quick metro ride from the train station. I asked them to let me know if there are any cancellations for Saturday night, so that I only have to move hostels once. I'm not too hopeful seeing that it's the night before Easter Sunday.
I'm in a 4 bed mixed dorm, and there is only one other person in there at the moment so I scored a bottom bunk. I'm going to do some laundry before I start exploring. Why you might ask? I definitely don't need to yet, but a) I'm here for 4 nights so plenty of time for drying (every other stop after this is ~2 nights until I get to Lisbon), b) I have a bottom bunk so I can hook up my cool new clothesline, c) I have a sink in my room, and d) I just want to use my clothesline.
I got to the Atocha station an hour early, because I'm cool like that. I sat by the little rainforest they have in there and watched the water turtles swim and putz around. I want a turtle someday. A land one though. Too bad I can't import/smuggle the ones we have at home in Brasil.
Once they displayed the platform my train was leaving from I headed to find it upstairs. For the record there are ticket vending machines around the station, I just didn't see them the first day. I also probably needed to talk to someone cause I had several questions so it all worked out.
Anyways, they make you put your bags through a conveyor belt xray machine. But you don't have to walk through a metal detector. That I don't really understand. One item that was listed as not allowed is a pocket knife. They luckily didn't notice or didn't care about my swiss army knife - it has been so handy this trip. Shout out to dad who bought it for me on one of his business trips a super long time ago (thanks dad!). I might put it in my pocket the next time I train travel, just in case they want to confiscate it from my bag.
The train was swanky and very comfortable. Each seat had earphones where you could watch a movie, today's feature was Toy Story 3. I decided to stare out at the beautiful countryside instead. Also played hearts on my netbook. We only made one stop before getting to Barcelona. At the stop I was admiring an adorable little boy out the window. Adorable until he sat behind me. Luckily my iPod was fully charged. Someone kept farting as well, am pretty sure it was the guy sitting next to me. Never fun.
I managed to stay awake all 3 hours - proud Jenna?! For those of you who have never had the pleasure of taking a plane, train, or bus trip with me - I tend to pass out quite quickly. Not very good company in that regard. Other than that I'm perfect. :)
I also wore my retainer the whole trip. Yes, I am the proud new owner of a retainer. It's bright green. I wanted to fix the movement my teeth had done since I had braces in middle school, and keep it that way. While I feel like everyone is staring at me sometimes, let them stare. I'll never see these fools again, I'll have pretty teeth, AND my orthodontist won't give me a lecture when I have my appointment the day after I get back to San Francisco.
I just checked into my first Barcelona hostel, a quick metro ride from the train station. I asked them to let me know if there are any cancellations for Saturday night, so that I only have to move hostels once. I'm not too hopeful seeing that it's the night before Easter Sunday.
I'm in a 4 bed mixed dorm, and there is only one other person in there at the moment so I scored a bottom bunk. I'm going to do some laundry before I start exploring. Why you might ask? I definitely don't need to yet, but a) I'm here for 4 nights so plenty of time for drying (every other stop after this is ~2 nights until I get to Lisbon), b) I have a bottom bunk so I can hook up my cool new clothesline, c) I have a sink in my room, and d) I just want to use my clothesline.
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Tapas Bars: 1, 2, 3, siesta.
My last day in Madrid was very pleasant. I did the final neighborhood walk from my guidebook labeled Traditional Madrid. It took me through a few major sites that I had already been to like Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor. It then wrapped through La Latina and down the Calle de la Cava Baja which is one of the main tapas bar strips - I´m pretty sure I went here with Corey. Mid-way through the walking tour I detoured to complete it´s tapas tour. I only hit up 3 of the tapas bars cause I couldn´t eat or drink anymore! But each one that I went to was a fun experience and delicious. Especially when the bartender spewed beer all over me (by accident). If it was a bit warmer I probably would have welcomed the spritz.
Speaking of spritz - along with several beers today I enjoyed a ´tinto de verano´ on the Plaza Mayor. It´s kind of like sangria - red wine with lemon soda and a slice of orange & lemon, ´twas refreshing.
While I have enjoyed Madrid I´m getting antsy and excited to get to know Barcelona. Am taking the high-speed train in the morning. Trip is about 3 hours.
P.S. I finally got to use my headlamp last night to read a bit. Was everything I had hoped for. And then some. I also am so happy I bought that overpriced sleeping bag insert. For those that don´t know what I´m talking about, it´s basically a sheet sleeping bag. Anyways, this hostel (which we don´t love) gives you a bottom sheet but no top sheet, and a scratchy, old, & nasty bedspread. Thank heavens for my new purchase.
Speaking of spritz - along with several beers today I enjoyed a ´tinto de verano´ on the Plaza Mayor. It´s kind of like sangria - red wine with lemon soda and a slice of orange & lemon, ´twas refreshing.
While I have enjoyed Madrid I´m getting antsy and excited to get to know Barcelona. Am taking the high-speed train in the morning. Trip is about 3 hours.
P.S. I finally got to use my headlamp last night to read a bit. Was everything I had hoped for. And then some. I also am so happy I bought that overpriced sleeping bag insert. For those that don´t know what I´m talking about, it´s basically a sheet sleeping bag. Anyways, this hostel (which we don´t love) gives you a bottom sheet but no top sheet, and a scratchy, old, & nasty bedspread. Thank heavens for my new purchase.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Side note to readers
If you like reading my blog and travel adventures but don´t like constantly checking to see if I´ve added a new post, I figured out a way to have the system send an email everytime I post an update.
Only bummer is that I can only add 10 email addresses. I have 6 spots left, so if you want to receive those emails let me know.
You snooze you lose!
Only bummer is that I can only add 10 email addresses. I have 6 spots left, so if you want to receive those emails let me know.
You snooze you lose!
El Rastro
It was fun to sit at a bar with lots of local futbol fans. There were some other tourists at the spot we picked, but not too many. It was a place where every beer you ordered you got a free tapa which was nice. One thing I didn't realize until I got here, most if not all tapas are served on a piece of bread. The game itself was rather boring, tied 1-1, but it was fun to watch a Madrid game in Madrid.
On the walk home I went through prostitute central. It's a hopping pedestrian shopping street during the day and a busy walking thoroughfare at night, and the prostitutes just kind of pace back and forth through the crowds. There seemed to be no "turfs" that I could tell. I think the most shocking part for me was that a patron couldn't drive and pick them up. They have to be on foot to take advantage of their services. I looked up and sure enough there were lots of motels above the shops.
Sunday morning I got up bright & early and walked to El Rastro. It was fun to walk around and am sure glad I got there early. By the time I left at 11am it was getting a bit frustrating to maneuver through the crowds. As my dad would say, it was a mob scene. They have everything you could possibly imagine for sale - from new & used clothes, jewelry, books, trinkets, antiques, art, plants, car parts, and pretty much everything else you would think they'd have at an outdoor flea market that takes up several blocks. There were police everywhere which I imagine is because both guidebooks mentioned that it is a famous feeding ground for pickpockets.
I went over to a little old woman who was selling her original artwork that is painted on little pieces of cardboard. Her name was Alegria which suits her well. She talked and talked about so many things. I feel like she gave me her life story, and I understood about 60% of it. Other Spanish tourists asked her if she had any artwork of Madrid. I loved her reply - she said that she paints scenes of where she is from (Toledo) and while she knows that scenes of Madrid would sell more, she paints from her heart which is in Toledo.
I had my backpack on my back and Alegria proceeded to demonstrate how the pickpockets would rob me. I assured her that my zipper was not accessible when my backpack was on. She chuckled and said "oh honey, they won't use your zipper", picked up her knife and showed me how they'd cut open my bag. She then took my bag off my back and made me wear it in front of me. And told me to tell all my friends to do the same. She worries about us just like she worries about her own grandchildren. After I bought one of her paintings (which I like but also felt the need to buy because she was so sweet, I wanted to support her, and have a reminder of her and the experience in my apartment), she asked a fellow tourist if they'd take a photo of us. Once I put my camera back into my pocket she shook her finger at me "no, no" and showed me how they'd grab my arm and force themselves in my pocket. She also told me never to have my hands in my pocket as it implies that I have something of value inside. I asked her what if I was just cold. She said she doesn't care, never keep your hands in your pockets. She was so fun to chat with I had a hard time leaving to wander to the other vendors.
On my walk back the Madrid Marathon had started, was cool to walk by the runners the whole way back to my hostel.
Then I checked into hostel #3 - Mad Hostel. It's my least favorite of the three. The rooms are claustrophobic. I can barely stand between my bed and the one next to me. I got the top bunk this time which is never fun. In the last two hostels I had my own bed (no bunk). There is no floor space to put my bag to get into it etc. I just threw my bag in the locker and left.
Being so close to the Parque del Retiro I decided to head there for a bit of sunshine and grass time. I came across the marathon again over there, apparently it was a 10k.
I then did the third neighborhood walk in my guidebook - La Latina & Lavapies. This hostel is in Lavapies. La Latina is known for it's tapas and they are both known for being the more ethnic neighborhoods. Supposedly 60% of the residents were not born in Spain. The neighborhoods feel a bit safe with character, similar to my hood in San Francisco. There are definitely less tourists over here which is nice, but I don't appreciate the attention that I've been getting. Will definitely do less wandering in this hood at night (Corey did mention to be careful here as well, so it's not just my gut). I outdid myself a bit with the walking around so came back home to get horizontal for a bit. Four hours later (at 10pm) I woke up and went to dinner. There are lots of Indian restaurants right down the street, and I went to one that my guidebook recommended. It was nice to sit outside amd people watch under an almost full moon.
P.S. It would appear that a version of hammer pants are coming back into style. Similar to skinny jeans, you will never catch me in a pair of those.
I also can't get used to saying Gracias with a "thee", like Gra-thee-as.
On the walk home I went through prostitute central. It's a hopping pedestrian shopping street during the day and a busy walking thoroughfare at night, and the prostitutes just kind of pace back and forth through the crowds. There seemed to be no "turfs" that I could tell. I think the most shocking part for me was that a patron couldn't drive and pick them up. They have to be on foot to take advantage of their services. I looked up and sure enough there were lots of motels above the shops.
Sunday morning I got up bright & early and walked to El Rastro. It was fun to walk around and am sure glad I got there early. By the time I left at 11am it was getting a bit frustrating to maneuver through the crowds. As my dad would say, it was a mob scene. They have everything you could possibly imagine for sale - from new & used clothes, jewelry, books, trinkets, antiques, art, plants, car parts, and pretty much everything else you would think they'd have at an outdoor flea market that takes up several blocks. There were police everywhere which I imagine is because both guidebooks mentioned that it is a famous feeding ground for pickpockets.
I went over to a little old woman who was selling her original artwork that is painted on little pieces of cardboard. Her name was Alegria which suits her well. She talked and talked about so many things. I feel like she gave me her life story, and I understood about 60% of it. Other Spanish tourists asked her if she had any artwork of Madrid. I loved her reply - she said that she paints scenes of where she is from (Toledo) and while she knows that scenes of Madrid would sell more, she paints from her heart which is in Toledo.
I had my backpack on my back and Alegria proceeded to demonstrate how the pickpockets would rob me. I assured her that my zipper was not accessible when my backpack was on. She chuckled and said "oh honey, they won't use your zipper", picked up her knife and showed me how they'd cut open my bag. She then took my bag off my back and made me wear it in front of me. And told me to tell all my friends to do the same. She worries about us just like she worries about her own grandchildren. After I bought one of her paintings (which I like but also felt the need to buy because she was so sweet, I wanted to support her, and have a reminder of her and the experience in my apartment), she asked a fellow tourist if they'd take a photo of us. Once I put my camera back into my pocket she shook her finger at me "no, no" and showed me how they'd grab my arm and force themselves in my pocket. She also told me never to have my hands in my pocket as it implies that I have something of value inside. I asked her what if I was just cold. She said she doesn't care, never keep your hands in your pockets. She was so fun to chat with I had a hard time leaving to wander to the other vendors.
On my walk back the Madrid Marathon had started, was cool to walk by the runners the whole way back to my hostel.
Then I checked into hostel #3 - Mad Hostel. It's my least favorite of the three. The rooms are claustrophobic. I can barely stand between my bed and the one next to me. I got the top bunk this time which is never fun. In the last two hostels I had my own bed (no bunk). There is no floor space to put my bag to get into it etc. I just threw my bag in the locker and left.
Being so close to the Parque del Retiro I decided to head there for a bit of sunshine and grass time. I came across the marathon again over there, apparently it was a 10k.
I then did the third neighborhood walk in my guidebook - La Latina & Lavapies. This hostel is in Lavapies. La Latina is known for it's tapas and they are both known for being the more ethnic neighborhoods. Supposedly 60% of the residents were not born in Spain. The neighborhoods feel a bit safe with character, similar to my hood in San Francisco. There are definitely less tourists over here which is nice, but I don't appreciate the attention that I've been getting. Will definitely do less wandering in this hood at night (Corey did mention to be careful here as well, so it's not just my gut). I outdid myself a bit with the walking around so came back home to get horizontal for a bit. Four hours later (at 10pm) I woke up and went to dinner. There are lots of Indian restaurants right down the street, and I went to one that my guidebook recommended. It was nice to sit outside amd people watch under an almost full moon.
P.S. It would appear that a version of hammer pants are coming back into style. Similar to skinny jeans, you will never catch me in a pair of those.
I also can't get used to saying Gracias with a "thee", like Gra-thee-as.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
Sabado en Madrid
I have settled into hostel #2 - MuchoMadrid. It's on Gran Via and I can already tell it's going to be pleasant night's sleep. Los Amigos was on the 4th floor above Calle Arenal which is a large pedestrian street - so there was noise all night long. Not that I minded too much because of my ear plugs. I was also in a large room where the last few nights people would come in at 6am from partying all night and be quite loud trying to stumble into their bed. Gran Via is a busy street but my room faces a courtyard, I'm on the 7th floor, and hopefully I won't have any roommates in this 3 bed room. The little lady at the front desk is quite adorable. She doesn't speak any English and I managed to understand most of what she said. She gave me a map and circled some of the sites for me. Nice because the map in my book isn't too detailed so I've been winging it when it comes to finding places. I was too stubborn to buy a detailed street map - imagine that. Me stubborn. Another part that's nice about this place is that there are several individual bathrooms in the hallway with a shower.
Anyways, I then went to the El Corte Ingles - a huge department store that also has a supermarket. I picked up some fresh bread, brie, and some fruit and walked to the Parque del Retiro. I LOVE this park. It's so nice. If I lived here I would come here all the time. There is a lake with paddle boats that you can rent by the hour and tons of vendors and tourists which isn't my cup of tea. But off to the side there are lots of trees, gardens, statues, and little grassy areas sectioned off where you can sit and chill out, have a picnic etc. I parked myself under a tree, leaned up against the trunk, selected some relaxing music on my ipod and enjoyed the afternoon. There was no one else in my grassy area for a while. Just me and the birds. But then two teenagers parked themselves right in my line of sight, laid down a blanket and jumped on each other. They luckily came up for air after a while and had a picnic. Too funny.
I didn't want to leave the park, but thought I should cross something else off my list, so I went to the Centre de Arte Reina Sofia museum which is free on Saturday afternoons. It's a contemporary art museum that is much less daunting than the Prado. And since it's not prime-time tourist season yet there was no line here either. Fabulous. I had a nice time wandering around, and was most excited to see paintings by Dali and Picasso. The most famous in the museum being Picasso's Guernica. People were taking photos throughout the entire museum. The art police would yell at them some of the time, but mostly they got away with it. Idiots.
Once I was done checking out the art I strolled back to my hostel without a map! I love staying in a place long enough that I can kind of get around. I basically knew that I needed to head west and hoped that I'd come across landmarks that I recognized, which I did.
As far as tonight goes, Casa Patas never got back to me which is a good thing because I forgot tonight is a big futbol night! I'm heading back to my first hostel to meet up with a girl that I met this morning. We're going to find a bar somewhere and watch the Real Madrid/Barcelona game (that starts at 10). I did meet a tourist that is actually going to the game - she paid 600 euros. So even if they weren't sold out, there's no way I'd fork over that kind of money. I wanted to ask her why she was staying in hostels if she was willing to pay that kind of money to watch a soccer game. I decided to keep my mouth shut.
Then tomorrow morning before I check out of this place and head to my 3rd Madrid home, I'm going to El Rastro - a large flea market held every Sunday. Pretty excited about that.
Anyways, I then went to the El Corte Ingles - a huge department store that also has a supermarket. I picked up some fresh bread, brie, and some fruit and walked to the Parque del Retiro. I LOVE this park. It's so nice. If I lived here I would come here all the time. There is a lake with paddle boats that you can rent by the hour and tons of vendors and tourists which isn't my cup of tea. But off to the side there are lots of trees, gardens, statues, and little grassy areas sectioned off where you can sit and chill out, have a picnic etc. I parked myself under a tree, leaned up against the trunk, selected some relaxing music on my ipod and enjoyed the afternoon. There was no one else in my grassy area for a while. Just me and the birds. But then two teenagers parked themselves right in my line of sight, laid down a blanket and jumped on each other. They luckily came up for air after a while and had a picnic. Too funny.
I didn't want to leave the park, but thought I should cross something else off my list, so I went to the Centre de Arte Reina Sofia museum which is free on Saturday afternoons. It's a contemporary art museum that is much less daunting than the Prado. And since it's not prime-time tourist season yet there was no line here either. Fabulous. I had a nice time wandering around, and was most excited to see paintings by Dali and Picasso. The most famous in the museum being Picasso's Guernica. People were taking photos throughout the entire museum. The art police would yell at them some of the time, but mostly they got away with it. Idiots.
Once I was done checking out the art I strolled back to my hostel without a map! I love staying in a place long enough that I can kind of get around. I basically knew that I needed to head west and hoped that I'd come across landmarks that I recognized, which I did.
As far as tonight goes, Casa Patas never got back to me which is a good thing because I forgot tonight is a big futbol night! I'm heading back to my first hostel to meet up with a girl that I met this morning. We're going to find a bar somewhere and watch the Real Madrid/Barcelona game (that starts at 10). I did meet a tourist that is actually going to the game - she paid 600 euros. So even if they weren't sold out, there's no way I'd fork over that kind of money. I wanted to ask her why she was staying in hostels if she was willing to pay that kind of money to watch a soccer game. I decided to keep my mouth shut.
Then tomorrow morning before I check out of this place and head to my 3rd Madrid home, I'm going to El Rastro - a large flea market held every Sunday. Pretty excited about that.
Saturday, April 16, 2011
Walk. Stop. Read. Repeat.
I spent most of this morning booking my next hostels. While I really wanted to stay at the Rising Cock in Lisbon, I settled for a more boring named hostel with the same rating but much cheaper.
I've decided that I think the reason why Madrid & Barcelona have had lots of bookings is because of Semana Santa leading up to the Easter holiday.
I returned back to the Malasana neighborhood today for lunch to a vegetarian restaurant highly rated in my guide book. It has a regular menu, but every day of the week they have a three course meal option of a different country. Today's menu was from Morocco. It was the best meal I've had in months. A chickpea appetizer with garlic and onions. A delicious salad with dates, nuts, and oranges. Followed by tasty couscous with pumpkin and other veggies, and a little pastry for dessert. It was so good & filling that I'm in no need for dinner tonight. I tried to go to this restaurant yesterday for lunch but it's so popular that they require reservations. It was worth the wait.
Then I headed over to the Plaza de Espana - a very nice plaza with trees, sculptures, fountains, and a bunch of benches. Read a bit on a park bench.
Next I decided to sit and read for a bit in the Sabatini gardens.
Followed by some more outdoor fun at Casa de Campo. I took the little gondola across the park mainly to check out the views. It's the largest park in Madrid with lots of bike and running paths, picnic tables, a huge lake, playgrounds, a zoo and aquarium, an amusement park etc. I took the gondola over to the middle, read my book for a bit, and then took it back.
Then I laid down in the grass near the Templo de Debod on the Parque de la Montana with lots of local teenage kissy couples and read my book. Ah to be that age and in love. Once my legs started getting itchy from the grass I wandered back towards the Palacio Real and read a bit more and people watched on a park bench.
I decided before returning to the hostel I should go to the Corral de la Moreria, which claims to be the best flamenco show in the world, and see if I could get a ticket for this weekend. I think this was my best Spanish conversation yet! Unfortunately bad news though - they are sold out until after I leave. SO I just tried to make a reservation online with another flamenco spot, Casa Patas, which is actually rated higher in my guidebook. We'll see what they say.
A few random thoughts/observations/anecdotes:
1) I've decided that I have globalization double standards. I love the fact that I can shop at Zara, Mango, and Desigual in San Francisco. But I don't love the fact that there are American stores and fast food joints here - most notably McDonald's, Burger King, Taco Bell, and Starbucks.
2) I find it amusing that there is a Dunkin Coffee chain here. Same typeset and coloring as Dunkin Donuts, and they do sell donuts, but it's not part of the legit chain.
3) Wandering around earlier today I stopped in the shade to reference my map. Two little old ladies veered out of their way to come over to me and ask what calle (street) I was looking for. So sweet.
4) Most people probably think I'm married cause I wear a simple band on my right hand, which is how the Spanish roll.
5) There is an Irishman in his mid-60s in my room that likes to corner people into a conversation. I managed to stay out of his way until last night. Turns out he lives in Morocco and comes to Madrid and stays at this same hostel every few months for a few weeks. Why? Simply because he says he doesn't get to have stimulating conversation there like he does here. I then asked him why he doesn't travel to other places. He seemed pretty closed minded that nowhere is as cool as Madrid. And then he told me that he hated the Toni Morrison book I just started reading. I thanked him for sharing and managed to get myself out of that situation.
6) While the shops have been very tempting, I've managed to control myself!
I've decided that I think the reason why Madrid & Barcelona have had lots of bookings is because of Semana Santa leading up to the Easter holiday.
I returned back to the Malasana neighborhood today for lunch to a vegetarian restaurant highly rated in my guide book. It has a regular menu, but every day of the week they have a three course meal option of a different country. Today's menu was from Morocco. It was the best meal I've had in months. A chickpea appetizer with garlic and onions. A delicious salad with dates, nuts, and oranges. Followed by tasty couscous with pumpkin and other veggies, and a little pastry for dessert. It was so good & filling that I'm in no need for dinner tonight. I tried to go to this restaurant yesterday for lunch but it's so popular that they require reservations. It was worth the wait.
Then I headed over to the Plaza de Espana - a very nice plaza with trees, sculptures, fountains, and a bunch of benches. Read a bit on a park bench.
Next I decided to sit and read for a bit in the Sabatini gardens.
Followed by some more outdoor fun at Casa de Campo. I took the little gondola across the park mainly to check out the views. It's the largest park in Madrid with lots of bike and running paths, picnic tables, a huge lake, playgrounds, a zoo and aquarium, an amusement park etc. I took the gondola over to the middle, read my book for a bit, and then took it back.
Then I laid down in the grass near the Templo de Debod on the Parque de la Montana with lots of local teenage kissy couples and read my book. Ah to be that age and in love. Once my legs started getting itchy from the grass I wandered back towards the Palacio Real and read a bit more and people watched on a park bench.
I decided before returning to the hostel I should go to the Corral de la Moreria, which claims to be the best flamenco show in the world, and see if I could get a ticket for this weekend. I think this was my best Spanish conversation yet! Unfortunately bad news though - they are sold out until after I leave. SO I just tried to make a reservation online with another flamenco spot, Casa Patas, which is actually rated higher in my guidebook. We'll see what they say.
A few random thoughts/observations/anecdotes:
1) I've decided that I have globalization double standards. I love the fact that I can shop at Zara, Mango, and Desigual in San Francisco. But I don't love the fact that there are American stores and fast food joints here - most notably McDonald's, Burger King, Taco Bell, and Starbucks.
2) I find it amusing that there is a Dunkin Coffee chain here. Same typeset and coloring as Dunkin Donuts, and they do sell donuts, but it's not part of the legit chain.
3) Wandering around earlier today I stopped in the shade to reference my map. Two little old ladies veered out of their way to come over to me and ask what calle (street) I was looking for. So sweet.
4) Most people probably think I'm married cause I wear a simple band on my right hand, which is how the Spanish roll.
5) There is an Irishman in his mid-60s in my room that likes to corner people into a conversation. I managed to stay out of his way until last night. Turns out he lives in Morocco and comes to Madrid and stays at this same hostel every few months for a few weeks. Why? Simply because he says he doesn't get to have stimulating conversation there like he does here. I then asked him why he doesn't travel to other places. He seemed pretty closed minded that nowhere is as cool as Madrid. And then he told me that he hated the Toni Morrison book I just started reading. I thanked him for sharing and managed to get myself out of that situation.
6) While the shops have been very tempting, I've managed to control myself!
Friday, April 15, 2011
Tapas tour
I just got home from a fabulous tapas tour with Corey. A great host he is. We went to a few of his favorite spots around town - so not only a food tour but also a walking tour. We finished the evening of eating off with churros con chocolate. You dip the churros in chocolate sauce - they have lots of different flavors. I got chocolate with a hint of cinnamon. Amazingly delicious but oh so rich.
So I just have to share this tidbit. As a not-so-closet romantic, in my head I thought how great it would be if when I got back there would be a note on my bed from Andrew. But I realize that's crazy thinking and things like that never happen. WELL when I got back to my room there was a long note from him with his email address. Love it.
So I just have to share this tidbit. As a not-so-closet romantic, in my head I thought how great it would be if when I got back there would be a note on my bed from Andrew. But I realize that's crazy thinking and things like that never happen. WELL when I got back to my room there was a long note from him with his email address. Love it.
Portunol
After my siesta yesterday I decided to go on one of the neighborhood walks in my guidebook. It's similar to the city walks I do in San Francisco - basically a route is set for you with info of sights along the way. A great way to see the less touristy locations. This walk was called Santa Ana: Barrio de las Letras. The hood is apparently the most bohemian one in Madrid. Walked by where Cervantes house used to be, the Teatro Espanol, a Basilica, a famous convent, and 9 other sites less cool to mention.
Afterwards I came back to the hostel and went out on the town with one of my roommates, a very cute Aussie named Andrew. He's been travelling for 10 months! He took me to El Tigre, a hopping joint that when you order a drink they bring you a plate full of tapas for free. It was on my list of places to check out so that was cool. He was pretty stoked when I told him he could have all the meat tapas. Luckily there were a few options for me as well. Although I'm pretty sure I accidentally ate something meaty. I survived.
After a few beers there we wandered to another spot and shared a pitcher of sangria and a delicious tapa of brie cheese and jam on bread. Sat outside and enjoyed great people watching. To round out the evening we went to Plaza Santa Ana (which I recognized I had been to earlier on my walk) and had a beer. Once the venue was ready to close down they gave everyone plastic cups, so we walked back to our hostel beer in hand.
It was a fun night, got in at 2am. Probably will be one of my latest nights out, unless I'm with a hostel friend. Andrew is leaving tonight for Peru (sigh).
When walking around it doesn't feel like I'm surrounded by other tourists which is nice, and very few people speak English. My Portunol (blend of Portuguese & Espanol) seems to be working out nicely. However, I rarely understand the reply because they speak too quickly.
Other than that very chilly first morning here, the weather has been perfect. Not too hot and not too cold. Perfectly pleasant.
This morning I had breakfast with Andrew near the Plaza de la Puerta del Sol. Then I went on the second neighborhood walk of the Chueca & Malasana neighborhoods which are famous for their shopping and nightlife. Chueca is the gay district and Malasana has more of an alternative/grunge crowd. So says the guidebook.
In one of the little parks I finished my first novel and people watched. I'll donate my book to the hostel, and I already acquired another one that Andrew gave me. Madrid is full of dogs, it seems that most of the locals walking around have a dog in tow. As I was reading I heard a collar/leash sound and a snort. I assumed it was a dog with a nasal issue, but once I looked up it was most definitely a little black pig with a bright pink harness and collar. Very cute and interesting to watch the pig interact with dogs. But once one of the dogs started barking at her very loudly she freaked out and started squealing until her owner picked her up. Was pretty funny.
In a few hours I'm meeting up with Corey, one of my cousin Mike's friends who lives here. Looking forward to some drinks, tapas, and finding out more local sites that he thinks I should check out. While I dig guidebook suggestions, I also want to make sure I do things a bit off the beaten path.
Afterwards I came back to the hostel and went out on the town with one of my roommates, a very cute Aussie named Andrew. He's been travelling for 10 months! He took me to El Tigre, a hopping joint that when you order a drink they bring you a plate full of tapas for free. It was on my list of places to check out so that was cool. He was pretty stoked when I told him he could have all the meat tapas. Luckily there were a few options for me as well. Although I'm pretty sure I accidentally ate something meaty. I survived.
After a few beers there we wandered to another spot and shared a pitcher of sangria and a delicious tapa of brie cheese and jam on bread. Sat outside and enjoyed great people watching. To round out the evening we went to Plaza Santa Ana (which I recognized I had been to earlier on my walk) and had a beer. Once the venue was ready to close down they gave everyone plastic cups, so we walked back to our hostel beer in hand.
It was a fun night, got in at 2am. Probably will be one of my latest nights out, unless I'm with a hostel friend. Andrew is leaving tonight for Peru (sigh).
When walking around it doesn't feel like I'm surrounded by other tourists which is nice, and very few people speak English. My Portunol (blend of Portuguese & Espanol) seems to be working out nicely. However, I rarely understand the reply because they speak too quickly.
Other than that very chilly first morning here, the weather has been perfect. Not too hot and not too cold. Perfectly pleasant.
This morning I had breakfast with Andrew near the Plaza de la Puerta del Sol. Then I went on the second neighborhood walk of the Chueca & Malasana neighborhoods which are famous for their shopping and nightlife. Chueca is the gay district and Malasana has more of an alternative/grunge crowd. So says the guidebook.
In one of the little parks I finished my first novel and people watched. I'll donate my book to the hostel, and I already acquired another one that Andrew gave me. Madrid is full of dogs, it seems that most of the locals walking around have a dog in tow. As I was reading I heard a collar/leash sound and a snort. I assumed it was a dog with a nasal issue, but once I looked up it was most definitely a little black pig with a bright pink harness and collar. Very cute and interesting to watch the pig interact with dogs. But once one of the dogs started barking at her very loudly she freaked out and started squealing until her owner picked her up. Was pretty funny.
In a few hours I'm meeting up with Corey, one of my cousin Mike's friends who lives here. Looking forward to some drinks, tapas, and finding out more local sites that he thinks I should check out. While I dig guidebook suggestions, I also want to make sure I do things a bit off the beaten path.
Thursday, April 14, 2011
Prado not Prada
The mixed dorm has been fine, although I don't know how I feel about the mixed bathroom. Haven't talked to anyone in the hostel yet, besides the quirky guy at the front desk. It's kind of nice actually, to be around people but not having to constantly chit-chat and share your story to everyone.
Speaking of hostels - I thought that since I'm here before high tourist season that I didn't have to worry about making reservations too far in advance. I was wrong. A lot of the hostels are booked for Friday and Saturday nights in both Madrid and Barcelona. So I'm staying at 3 hostels in each city. While I'm bummed I'll have to waste time checking in and out of places, it might be fun to see the hostels and stay in other parts of each city.
All of my roommates (there are 8 of us) went to bed at a reasonable time last night (around midnight). I was somewhat surprised as I assumed that they'd be out until the wee hours doing as the locals do. While I'd love to get that full experience in, I don't want to waste any of my days here sleeping.
To end my day yesterday - after a fabulous siesta I went back to the Plaza Mayor to listen to a swing band (they were setting up when I was there earlier). Was fun to listen to that for a while. Then I went to one of the cafes for dinner that was recommended by one of my guide books. It was on the Plaza de Oriente, so as I sat outside my view was of the Royal Palace and the Opera house. I got the vegetarian sandwich which was interesting - hard-boiled egg, lettuce, green beans, pickles, and mayonnaise. I wanted to get tapas but they were all meat-focused. I hope I'll find a place soon that has veggie friendly ones as well.
This morning I got up bright and early and headed to the Museo del Prado. Spent all morning soaking in the paintings of Velazquez, Goya, Bosch, among tons of others. Was pretty amazing, and exhausting. So to give my legs and mind a rest I went over to the Botanical Gardens next door, walked around a bit and parked myself on a bench and read my novel. Was quite peaceful.
Little fact: The symbol of Madrid is a bear and a madrone tree - it's pretty cute and everywhere.
Now it's time for today's siesta. It's amazing how easy it is to get used to the timezone and local practices. :)
Speaking of hostels - I thought that since I'm here before high tourist season that I didn't have to worry about making reservations too far in advance. I was wrong. A lot of the hostels are booked for Friday and Saturday nights in both Madrid and Barcelona. So I'm staying at 3 hostels in each city. While I'm bummed I'll have to waste time checking in and out of places, it might be fun to see the hostels and stay in other parts of each city.
All of my roommates (there are 8 of us) went to bed at a reasonable time last night (around midnight). I was somewhat surprised as I assumed that they'd be out until the wee hours doing as the locals do. While I'd love to get that full experience in, I don't want to waste any of my days here sleeping.
To end my day yesterday - after a fabulous siesta I went back to the Plaza Mayor to listen to a swing band (they were setting up when I was there earlier). Was fun to listen to that for a while. Then I went to one of the cafes for dinner that was recommended by one of my guide books. It was on the Plaza de Oriente, so as I sat outside my view was of the Royal Palace and the Opera house. I got the vegetarian sandwich which was interesting - hard-boiled egg, lettuce, green beans, pickles, and mayonnaise. I wanted to get tapas but they were all meat-focused. I hope I'll find a place soon that has veggie friendly ones as well.
This morning I got up bright and early and headed to the Museo del Prado. Spent all morning soaking in the paintings of Velazquez, Goya, Bosch, among tons of others. Was pretty amazing, and exhausting. So to give my legs and mind a rest I went over to the Botanical Gardens next door, walked around a bit and parked myself on a bench and read my novel. Was quite peaceful.
Little fact: The symbol of Madrid is a bear and a madrone tree - it's pretty cute and everywhere.
Now it's time for today's siesta. It's amazing how easy it is to get used to the timezone and local practices. :)
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Arrival in Madrid
I slept most of the flight to JFK and then had the perfect amount of time to grab a snack and hop onto the next flight to Madrid. I barely remember that flight, was so tired! I have mad skills when it comes to sleeping on any type of transit. Definitely a quality I love to have.
Anyways, once we landed in Madrid I zipped through customs & immigration, picked up my bag and headed to the metro station in the airport. I transferred to 3 trains to get to the stop closest to my hostel.
It was chilly when I walked out of the metro station at 8am. I might have to pick up another layer or two for the nights and early mornings. The street was very quiet with very few people around. Some folks walking their dogs, some on their way to work, and a few delivery trucks unloading. I found the Los Amigos hostel easily and was able to leave my bag there and wander around the city until I could check-in after 1pm.
Once I got back outside I decided to just walk a bit without a map, so that whatever I came across was a surprise.
Here is what I stumbled across sans map:
1) Plaza de Oriente - which has nice gardens, statutes, and fountains.
2) Opera House - I checked out the schedule and won't be able to attend an opera, but I do want to find some sort of show to go to while in Madrid. Or maybe a soccer game!
3) Royal Palace - I walked by a massive building with guards outside, figured it was something official but didn't want to look it up on my map just yet. When I turned the corner there was a line of about 20 obvious tourists. Still without knowing what this building was I decided to get in line. Then I noticed a small sign that labeled it as the entrance to the Royal Palace tours. Perfect! I had time to kill. So I took the 1.5 hour audio tour of the palace. A swanky place for sure with lots of great sculptures, frescoes, and amazing ornate furniture.
My two favorite parts of the palace were the armory where you could see all the elaborate weapons and armor for people and their horses, and the pharmacy where they used to make and store the medicine for the royal family.
Then at the end of the tour leaving the armory there were two peacocks just chilling outside. Random and very pretty.
Once I left the gates I sat on a bench in between the Royal Palace and the Catedral de la Sra de la Almudena to check out my book and see where else I might like to see that's not too far from my hostel. I decided to walk to the Plaza Mayor.
The Plaza Mayor wasn't as grand or large as I thought it would be with that kind of name, but it was nice. I sadly didn't want to relax there for too long because people around the plaza were selling these obnoxious little whistles that make weird sounds. It's all the rage with the teen-late twenties male tourists. It reminded me of the World Cup vuvuzela obnoxiousness. Hopefully if/when I go back there it won't be as bad. Or I might have to whip out my earplugs or ipod.
I did get a cofffe and sit in the sun for a bit at the plaza and came up with my next adventure - to get train tickets.
I walked to the Atocha train station and it took me a while of observing to figure out what was going on. There were so many different lines, numbers, color-coding and acronyms. Proud that I figured it out after some time of watching, instead of asking someone. You can either buy same-day tickets (certain lines) or you grab a ticket and wait until your number is called for buying advance tickets. I suddenly missed the ticket vending machines all over Italy. I whipped out my novel and read several chapters before my number was called.
Booked the train trips in Spain, and then I need to figure out how to get from Spain - Portugal and back. We'll worry about that in a few days.
By this point it was a little after 2pm, so I walked back to the hostel, checked-in, took a shower, and now am lying on my bed typing this blog entry. Again, love the netbook. There are two other guys in here doing the same. This is my first time in a "mixed" dorm. I haven't seen a female yet, but I'm pretty sure the pink polka dot and bear socks that are hanging on someone's bed drying will belong to a female.
Anyways, once we landed in Madrid I zipped through customs & immigration, picked up my bag and headed to the metro station in the airport. I transferred to 3 trains to get to the stop closest to my hostel.
It was chilly when I walked out of the metro station at 8am. I might have to pick up another layer or two for the nights and early mornings. The street was very quiet with very few people around. Some folks walking their dogs, some on their way to work, and a few delivery trucks unloading. I found the Los Amigos hostel easily and was able to leave my bag there and wander around the city until I could check-in after 1pm.
Once I got back outside I decided to just walk a bit without a map, so that whatever I came across was a surprise.
Here is what I stumbled across sans map:
1) Plaza de Oriente - which has nice gardens, statutes, and fountains.
2) Opera House - I checked out the schedule and won't be able to attend an opera, but I do want to find some sort of show to go to while in Madrid. Or maybe a soccer game!
3) Royal Palace - I walked by a massive building with guards outside, figured it was something official but didn't want to look it up on my map just yet. When I turned the corner there was a line of about 20 obvious tourists. Still without knowing what this building was I decided to get in line. Then I noticed a small sign that labeled it as the entrance to the Royal Palace tours. Perfect! I had time to kill. So I took the 1.5 hour audio tour of the palace. A swanky place for sure with lots of great sculptures, frescoes, and amazing ornate furniture.
My two favorite parts of the palace were the armory where you could see all the elaborate weapons and armor for people and their horses, and the pharmacy where they used to make and store the medicine for the royal family.
Then at the end of the tour leaving the armory there were two peacocks just chilling outside. Random and very pretty.
Once I left the gates I sat on a bench in between the Royal Palace and the Catedral de la Sra de la Almudena to check out my book and see where else I might like to see that's not too far from my hostel. I decided to walk to the Plaza Mayor.
The Plaza Mayor wasn't as grand or large as I thought it would be with that kind of name, but it was nice. I sadly didn't want to relax there for too long because people around the plaza were selling these obnoxious little whistles that make weird sounds. It's all the rage with the teen-late twenties male tourists. It reminded me of the World Cup vuvuzela obnoxiousness. Hopefully if/when I go back there it won't be as bad. Or I might have to whip out my earplugs or ipod.
I did get a cofffe and sit in the sun for a bit at the plaza and came up with my next adventure - to get train tickets.
I walked to the Atocha train station and it took me a while of observing to figure out what was going on. There were so many different lines, numbers, color-coding and acronyms. Proud that I figured it out after some time of watching, instead of asking someone. You can either buy same-day tickets (certain lines) or you grab a ticket and wait until your number is called for buying advance tickets. I suddenly missed the ticket vending machines all over Italy. I whipped out my novel and read several chapters before my number was called.
Booked the train trips in Spain, and then I need to figure out how to get from Spain - Portugal and back. We'll worry about that in a few days.
By this point it was a little after 2pm, so I walked back to the hostel, checked-in, took a shower, and now am lying on my bed typing this blog entry. Again, love the netbook. There are two other guys in here doing the same. This is my first time in a "mixed" dorm. I haven't seen a female yet, but I'm pretty sure the pink polka dot and bear socks that are hanging on someone's bed drying will belong to a female.
Monday, April 11, 2011
Spain & Portugal
I just arrived at SFO and am very excited about my next adventure. I am also excited about getting some shut-eye on the plane. With class all weekend, three wonderful visitors, a surprise paper I had to write on Saturday night, and anxiety about packing, I'm exhausted.
Two things are already drastically different from my Italy trip and I feel so much more prepared and savvy. First off I am backpacking this time instead of hauling a suitcase. No more loud rolls down cobble stone streets, challenging trips up and down stairs, and impossible lifts into trains where I had to bat my eyes at people to help me. The nice folks at REI hooked me up with a backpack that is suited for travel, not backpacking in the wilderness. So it functions a bit more like a suitcase which will make it easier than a top-loading style backpack. I also packed very light - so proud!
Secondly, I purchased a cute little Dell netbook (tiny laptop). I already love it. I spent so much time in Italy hunting for internet cafes, spending too much money, and jealous of all the folks taking advantage of the free wifi at the hostels. If a hostel did have a computer that you could use, you usually had to sign up for 15 minute increments and it was so hard to get anything done. It'll not only be nice to update my blog and type up my entries on train rides etc, but it will also be helpful when I'm trying to figure out how to get from one city to the next and book hostels. And of course I'll probably watch TV shows online once I finish the four books I brought.
Other small items that I packed this trip after observing and learning from other travelers (which was a huge benefit of staying in a shared dorm) include: a clothesline, a sleeping bag insert/sheet thing, and a headlamp for reading at night and trying to look at a map when streetlights seem to be nonexistent. I've always wanted a headlamp. I was cool and I bought the kid version cause it was the simplest one they had. And it was pink.
So there you have it. All the little tips I learned from my Italy trip that I'm excited to take advantage of this trip (and the hopefully many more to come).
Two things are already drastically different from my Italy trip and I feel so much more prepared and savvy. First off I am backpacking this time instead of hauling a suitcase. No more loud rolls down cobble stone streets, challenging trips up and down stairs, and impossible lifts into trains where I had to bat my eyes at people to help me. The nice folks at REI hooked me up with a backpack that is suited for travel, not backpacking in the wilderness. So it functions a bit more like a suitcase which will make it easier than a top-loading style backpack. I also packed very light - so proud!
Secondly, I purchased a cute little Dell netbook (tiny laptop). I already love it. I spent so much time in Italy hunting for internet cafes, spending too much money, and jealous of all the folks taking advantage of the free wifi at the hostels. If a hostel did have a computer that you could use, you usually had to sign up for 15 minute increments and it was so hard to get anything done. It'll not only be nice to update my blog and type up my entries on train rides etc, but it will also be helpful when I'm trying to figure out how to get from one city to the next and book hostels. And of course I'll probably watch TV shows online once I finish the four books I brought.
Other small items that I packed this trip after observing and learning from other travelers (which was a huge benefit of staying in a shared dorm) include: a clothesline, a sleeping bag insert/sheet thing, and a headlamp for reading at night and trying to look at a map when streetlights seem to be nonexistent. I've always wanted a headlamp. I was cool and I bought the kid version cause it was the simplest one they had. And it was pink.
So there you have it. All the little tips I learned from my Italy trip that I'm excited to take advantage of this trip (and the hopefully many more to come).
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