I have loved everything about this trip-
the endless sights of Rome
the art of Florence
the sillyness of Pisa
the views of Cortona
the streets of Siena
the hikes of Cinque Terre
the spicyness of Milan
the beauty of Lake Como
the canals of Venice
the creativity of Murano
the steep stairwells of Positano
the grottoes of Capri
the ruins of Pompei
the shops of Sorrento
the balconies of Taormina
the humbleness of Siracusa
the beach of Fontane Bianche
the gelato of Ortygia
the convent hostel of Salerno
I thought after five weeks in Italy I would be able to cross it off my list and only see and explore other countries. Well, I have a feeling that the one coin I threw with my right hand over my left shoulder in the Trevi fountain will bring me back to Italy someday.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
The Last Supper
Train to Rome from Salerno was not only on schedule, it was early. The air conditioning even worked, was a very fancy trip. So happy that my last day was in Rome. Once I dropped my stuff off at the Fawlty Towers hostel, I walked to the Spanish Steps, then walked down Corso and did some shopping. Bought a few scarves, which felt weird to do in this blistering heat but they will be very useful in SF. Strolled past the Pantheon, enjoyed the music in Piazza Navona. Actually the same band that I enjoyed weeks ago, so I bought their cd. Then I settled into a restaurant on a side alley from Piazza Navona.
Since it was my last supper, I decided to not eat all day. All I had was a piece of fruit, so that I could actually eat officially tonight by having the primo and secondi courses (I normally could only handle the primo). I didn't order an appetizer though, so it probably was not completely legit. My primo was Spaghetti Pomodoro, followed by my secondi of Melanzane Alla Parmigiana (Eggplant Parmesan), and then my cotorni (side dish) was Zuppa di Fagioli (bean soup). Enjoyed all of that with two glasses of Chianti. I ate at an odd time, it was a late lunch or early dinner, so I was one of very few eating. Which allowed me to become buds with the waiters Alberto & Pino. They were waiters but really should be comedians. They were sad when I asked for the check, so poured me another glass of wine on them, which I did not need but drank anyways. Pino offered to take me around Rome on his Vespa if I waited until he got off work. I sadly told him that I had to get to bed early because of my flight, but that would have been fun! Then I strolled to the Fontana di Trevi to have a gelato and enjoy the fountain from dusk to dark. Was really nice.
While I know it will be nice to be home, I am surprisingly a bit emotional to leave.
Since it was my last supper, I decided to not eat all day. All I had was a piece of fruit, so that I could actually eat officially tonight by having the primo and secondi courses (I normally could only handle the primo). I didn't order an appetizer though, so it probably was not completely legit. My primo was Spaghetti Pomodoro, followed by my secondi of Melanzane Alla Parmigiana (Eggplant Parmesan), and then my cotorni (side dish) was Zuppa di Fagioli (bean soup). Enjoyed all of that with two glasses of Chianti. I ate at an odd time, it was a late lunch or early dinner, so I was one of very few eating. Which allowed me to become buds with the waiters Alberto & Pino. They were waiters but really should be comedians. They were sad when I asked for the check, so poured me another glass of wine on them, which I did not need but drank anyways. Pino offered to take me around Rome on his Vespa if I waited until he got off work. I sadly told him that I had to get to bed early because of my flight, but that would have been fun! Then I strolled to the Fontana di Trevi to have a gelato and enjoy the fountain from dusk to dark. Was really nice.
While I know it will be nice to be home, I am surprisingly a bit emotional to leave.
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Back on the mainland
Today was uneventful in the tourist category. I will avoid venting and not talk about the 12 hour trip that was supposed to be 8. I will also not talk about the argument I had last night with a Dutch guy, who tested my patience mocking my lack of eating red meat, and continued by asking me what I was doing in Sicily if I didn't eat a lot of seafood. He tested my last nerve when he brought up the World Cup. That is when I gave it right back to him, shocked the entire table, and went to bed. But we won't talk about that. This country doesn't deserve venting. :)
What I will talk about is this cool hostel in Salerno. It used to be a convent, so has lots of character. Reminds me of when my parents and I stayed in a convent in northern Brasil one night.
Off to Rome in the morning. Of everywhere I have been, Rome is still my favorite. Assuming the train cooperates, I will arrive at 2pm and will have a full afternoon and evening of fun before I fly out on Monday.
What I will talk about is this cool hostel in Salerno. It used to be a convent, so has lots of character. Reminds me of when my parents and I stayed in a convent in northern Brasil one night.
Off to Rome in the morning. Of everywhere I have been, Rome is still my favorite. Assuming the train cooperates, I will arrive at 2pm and will have a full afternoon and evening of fun before I fly out on Monday.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Chillin in Sicily
This morning I walked to the farmers market on the Ortygia island and bought some produce. Then I met up with a guy from Los Angeles staying at the hostel and we walked around the Parco Archeologico Della Neapolis, one of the main tourist spots of Siracusa. It has a Greek theatre, a Roman amphitheatre and a really cool cave. Just got back to the hostel to take a siesta, and ran into the friendly Korean chef (Jung) who is trying to convince me to eat lunch with him. I think I draw the line at anchovies, but I'll probably sit with him and keep him company. Tonight is a lot of people's last nights here, am sure we'll get a big group to go out to dinner on Ortygia.
Speaking of dinner, last night was fun - a girl from my room and I went to dinner right in front of the Duomo. Was very cool all lit up. Then we walked around a bit. Bought a mixed cd off a guy on the street that will hopefully have a bunch of hit Italian songs that are being played everywhere, but I have a feeling it'll also have some stuff from home on there as well. Watched part of a marrionette puppet show. Lots of little kids sitting down watching, was sad I didn't have my camera on me. Watched the monkey puppet do the moonwalk to Smooth Criminal. Was the funniest thing I've seen in a while.
With the direct trains full it is going to take me two days to get back to Rome. So tomorrow am heading out bright and early to take the train, the ferry, and another train to Salerno. Then on Sunday up to Rome. Hopefully it will be an easy trip with few complications.
Speaking of dinner, last night was fun - a girl from my room and I went to dinner right in front of the Duomo. Was very cool all lit up. Then we walked around a bit. Bought a mixed cd off a guy on the street that will hopefully have a bunch of hit Italian songs that are being played everywhere, but I have a feeling it'll also have some stuff from home on there as well. Watched part of a marrionette puppet show. Lots of little kids sitting down watching, was sad I didn't have my camera on me. Watched the monkey puppet do the moonwalk to Smooth Criminal. Was the funniest thing I've seen in a while.
With the direct trains full it is going to take me two days to get back to Rome. So tomorrow am heading out bright and early to take the train, the ferry, and another train to Salerno. Then on Sunday up to Rome. Hopefully it will be an easy trip with few complications.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Fontane Bianche
I spent yesterday sunbathing and swimming at Fontane Bianche, a quick bus ride south of Siracusa. A beautiful sandy beach and bright blue water.
I noticed a few people covered in what looked like really thick white sunscreen. They were laughing and taking photos of each other. I just thought - strange Italians.
But then I saw more and more people walking by me with this weird stuff on. Then I remembered the name of the beach that I was on - Fontane Bianche. So I walked down what felt like the rabbit hole to see where they were coming from. There were tons of people on the end of the beach standing in the water smearing this substance from the rocks on their bodies. I tried looking it up quickly but didn't really find an explanation. I asked the owner of the hostel who is the bartender at night, and he said its some sort of soapstone that is a good exfoliant. Kind of cool. I was hesitant to do that though and rub all my sunscreen off. These last few days have been HOT. My guide book calls Siracusa a "cauldron in the summer".
I noticed a few people covered in what looked like really thick white sunscreen. They were laughing and taking photos of each other. I just thought - strange Italians.
But then I saw more and more people walking by me with this weird stuff on. Then I remembered the name of the beach that I was on - Fontane Bianche. So I walked down what felt like the rabbit hole to see where they were coming from. There were tons of people on the end of the beach standing in the water smearing this substance from the rocks on their bodies. I tried looking it up quickly but didn't really find an explanation. I asked the owner of the hostel who is the bartender at night, and he said its some sort of soapstone that is a good exfoliant. Kind of cool. I was hesitant to do that though and rub all my sunscreen off. These last few days have been HOT. My guide book calls Siracusa a "cauldron in the summer".
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Octopus & Squid Pasta
So, I was completely content with my late lunch and my apple for dinner. I sat at the hostel bar with a beer and my book. And somehow ended up at a dinner table of strangers, all travelling by themselves. There were three Dutch, a Korean, a Brit, and a Portuguese. Ages ranged from 20-69. Not sure how it happened, but it was a lovely unexpected dinner.
Once I accepted and sat down I was a bit mortified to see a pasta dish full of octopus & squid. What to do. I'm pretty sure I am allergic to shellfish. Well, with everyone there and feeling the sweet hospitality of these other hostel goers, I had to just eat it and see what happens. So far so good. The thought makes me nervous, but I think it is all in my head. The guy from Korea was the chef, he left his family to spend 3 months in Sicily eating and cooking, as he is going to open an Italian restaurant once he gets back. Which reminds me, one of my regrets while here is not taking a cooking class. Next time perhaps.
Once I accepted and sat down I was a bit mortified to see a pasta dish full of octopus & squid. What to do. I'm pretty sure I am allergic to shellfish. Well, with everyone there and feeling the sweet hospitality of these other hostel goers, I had to just eat it and see what happens. So far so good. The thought makes me nervous, but I think it is all in my head. The guy from Korea was the chef, he left his family to spend 3 months in Sicily eating and cooking, as he is going to open an Italian restaurant once he gets back. Which reminds me, one of my regrets while here is not taking a cooking class. Next time perhaps.
Siracusa & Ortygia
I'm staying at the LOL Hostel in Siracusa, 50m from the train station. It is so nice & clean. The staff is very helpful and friendly, and they have four computers, a kitchen and bar, and an outdoor garden patio. I need a key to get into my shared dorm, and I have a locker for the first time. This place is fabulous. I just wish the name was less cheesy (LOL as in "laughing out loud"). Written on the chalk board at the entrance is "29th in the world!". I assume that references some sort of rating as the 29th best hostel. Anyways, enough about the hostel.
I got here pretty late last night, because it seems to take super long to get anywhere in Sicily via the trains or buses. Most of the guide books do warn about that. My original plan was to stay here for two nights, then head to Agrigento for two nights, and then up to Palermo. However, since it takes so long to get anywhere I don't want to spend two full days on the train. SO I decided to stay put and booked two more nights at this hostel. While I am bummed not to get to those other spots, I like the thought of relaxing here by the beach. There are also plenty of sights to see in Siracusa and on Ortygia Island. Walked around Ortygia today (it's an island just over the bridge, you don't have to take a ferry which is nice). I parked myself on a platform full of other sunbathers. There was a stairwell to get into the water. No apparent beaches here, so am going to hop on a bus tomorrow to go to a sandy beach a bit south of here.
Very few people speak English which has been a nice change. It's more of a struggle, but a bit fun to try and communicate in Italian and using my Portuguese. All the others in my dorm are from other parts of Europe, mainly France.
Off to find something to eat and sit outside with my latest novel. It's such a nice feeling that I don't have to pack up and leave in the morning.
I got here pretty late last night, because it seems to take super long to get anywhere in Sicily via the trains or buses. Most of the guide books do warn about that. My original plan was to stay here for two nights, then head to Agrigento for two nights, and then up to Palermo. However, since it takes so long to get anywhere I don't want to spend two full days on the train. SO I decided to stay put and booked two more nights at this hostel. While I am bummed not to get to those other spots, I like the thought of relaxing here by the beach. There are also plenty of sights to see in Siracusa and on Ortygia Island. Walked around Ortygia today (it's an island just over the bridge, you don't have to take a ferry which is nice). I parked myself on a platform full of other sunbathers. There was a stairwell to get into the water. No apparent beaches here, so am going to hop on a bus tomorrow to go to a sandy beach a bit south of here.
Very few people speak English which has been a nice change. It's more of a struggle, but a bit fun to try and communicate in Italian and using my Portuguese. All the others in my dorm are from other parts of Europe, mainly France.
Off to find something to eat and sit outside with my latest novel. It's such a nice feeling that I don't have to pack up and leave in the morning.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Adventure to Sicily
Oh where to start. Talking to some other tourists and the people that worked at the hostel, I was told my best option was to take the bus from Positano to Amalfi. Then get on another bus to Salerno, and then a train from Salerno to Taormina. That was the plan and it would have been nice. The day turned out as follows.
I got up at 5:30 and walked to the bus stop to catch the 6am bus to Amalfi. Didn't show up. Then at 6:30 a bus to Salerno showed up (when everyone told me there wasn't a bus directly to Salerno), so I thought my day was going to be seamless. I got on the bus and it wasn't possible to buy a ticket on it (even though people told me I could). The driver was extremely nice and let me get on the bus, and then in Amalfi I hopped off and quickly bought a ticket. Twisted my ankle rushing to the Tabbachi to get my ticket, but all ok. Then I get to Salerno 2 hours before the train was scheduled to leave. Train is full. No seats available. All the direct trains are full, according to the ticket vending machine. So I stood in line to talk to someone that works there. He said "yes all trains are full, not possible to get to Taormina". That was the first time I experienced that, it was always easy to get on any train. Apparently getting on and off Sicily is quite difficult. Which makes me nervous about my trip back to Rome to fly out. Anyways, so then I pull my Italy book out and start playing with the ticket machine, to see what my options are because the guy behind the desk was not going to help me. I decided to at least make it to the town right across from Sicily and see what happens. I book that train that leaves at 1pm, and up walks Vicki, coincidentally also heading to Taormina. Told her about the train, and she was in the same situation, assuming she could just get the ticket that day. So we set out on this adventure together, having no idea where we would end up for the night.
We had lunch in Salerno, walked around asking people for an internet point, but Salerno doesn't get many tourists so they don't really have one. Then we took the train to Villa San Giovanni (something like that, don't have my guidebook on me). As we got off, the ferries to Messina were right there, so we hopped on a ferry to Sicily. And then we took a local train from Messina to Taormina. Why couldn't the man at the train station in Salerno have told us that you can get there, just not on the direct train? So we were so happy we made it. Then we had to take the bus from the train station up the hill to Taormina. That is when looking at my hotel information I realized that they had lied, and that they weren't actually in Taormina, but a town 20km up the coast. I booked the hotel room because I couldn't find a hostel, and told myself that it would be my "splurge" night of a nice hotel. Well by that point it was dark, no buses were going to the town my hotel was in and it would have probably cost more than the room to take a taxi there. So I decided to truck with Vicki to her hostel and hope they have an extra bed available.
We followed the directions to the hostel and had to keep asking locals which direction to go. It was pitch black at this point with few street lights. Sicily definitely seems to be where all of the Italians flock to, to enjoy the beaches and flee from all of the tourists up north. Lots of tourists here, just all Italian tourists.
Walking away from the town, it seemed odd that the hostel was in a neighborhood. Well we found the street and address, and it wasn't the hostel. It was a sketchy little B&B with an old woman sitting on the porch. She said the hostel was "finished" and that we could stay there for 60 euros. We were quite confused so walked a little further down the road and found a hotel and went to ask them. They explained that the hostel moved about a year ago, but that the guide books haven't properly updated the directions and that we walked about 2km the wrong way. Completely desperate, we asked them if we could grab a drink and decide what to do. So we had a beer and tried calling the hostel. None of the numbers Vicki had worked, because they had moved. We asked the woman at reception how much it would be for one room for one night. She said 50 euros. At that point we were so exhausted we said ok. So we both had different accomodations booked but ended up staying there. She definitely gave us a deal because of how late it was, how tired we probably looked, and knowing that if they had told us anything more expensive we would have left. So giving us a deal, they at least made 50 euros that night. So my day from hostel to hotel was a 15 hour adventure...
We then asked if they closed the front door, because we were going to go try and find dinner. She explained how to get in past 11, but said that if we wanted they had a restaurant downstairs by the pool. We looked at each other like "what!? you have a pool!?". So we put our stuff in our room, quickly freshened up, and went to dinner downstairs. Then I threw on my bikini, took a quick dip under the stars by myself which was fabulous, and went to bed. It was the best night sleep I've had in over a week. It was also the best shower I've had in a long time. It's amazing how roughing it a bit makes you appreciate every little detail of a simple hotel.
This morning we had breakfast at our savior hotel, and then trekked back to town and found Vicki's hostel, where I am paying them by the hour to leave my luggage. After a bit of touring Taormina, I'll eat lunch, say bye to Vicki and take the bus down to the train station, destination Siracusa. Hopefully it won't take me that long to get there!
I got up at 5:30 and walked to the bus stop to catch the 6am bus to Amalfi. Didn't show up. Then at 6:30 a bus to Salerno showed up (when everyone told me there wasn't a bus directly to Salerno), so I thought my day was going to be seamless. I got on the bus and it wasn't possible to buy a ticket on it (even though people told me I could). The driver was extremely nice and let me get on the bus, and then in Amalfi I hopped off and quickly bought a ticket. Twisted my ankle rushing to the Tabbachi to get my ticket, but all ok. Then I get to Salerno 2 hours before the train was scheduled to leave. Train is full. No seats available. All the direct trains are full, according to the ticket vending machine. So I stood in line to talk to someone that works there. He said "yes all trains are full, not possible to get to Taormina". That was the first time I experienced that, it was always easy to get on any train. Apparently getting on and off Sicily is quite difficult. Which makes me nervous about my trip back to Rome to fly out. Anyways, so then I pull my Italy book out and start playing with the ticket machine, to see what my options are because the guy behind the desk was not going to help me. I decided to at least make it to the town right across from Sicily and see what happens. I book that train that leaves at 1pm, and up walks Vicki, coincidentally also heading to Taormina. Told her about the train, and she was in the same situation, assuming she could just get the ticket that day. So we set out on this adventure together, having no idea where we would end up for the night.
We had lunch in Salerno, walked around asking people for an internet point, but Salerno doesn't get many tourists so they don't really have one. Then we took the train to Villa San Giovanni (something like that, don't have my guidebook on me). As we got off, the ferries to Messina were right there, so we hopped on a ferry to Sicily. And then we took a local train from Messina to Taormina. Why couldn't the man at the train station in Salerno have told us that you can get there, just not on the direct train? So we were so happy we made it. Then we had to take the bus from the train station up the hill to Taormina. That is when looking at my hotel information I realized that they had lied, and that they weren't actually in Taormina, but a town 20km up the coast. I booked the hotel room because I couldn't find a hostel, and told myself that it would be my "splurge" night of a nice hotel. Well by that point it was dark, no buses were going to the town my hotel was in and it would have probably cost more than the room to take a taxi there. So I decided to truck with Vicki to her hostel and hope they have an extra bed available.
We followed the directions to the hostel and had to keep asking locals which direction to go. It was pitch black at this point with few street lights. Sicily definitely seems to be where all of the Italians flock to, to enjoy the beaches and flee from all of the tourists up north. Lots of tourists here, just all Italian tourists.
Walking away from the town, it seemed odd that the hostel was in a neighborhood. Well we found the street and address, and it wasn't the hostel. It was a sketchy little B&B with an old woman sitting on the porch. She said the hostel was "finished" and that we could stay there for 60 euros. We were quite confused so walked a little further down the road and found a hotel and went to ask them. They explained that the hostel moved about a year ago, but that the guide books haven't properly updated the directions and that we walked about 2km the wrong way. Completely desperate, we asked them if we could grab a drink and decide what to do. So we had a beer and tried calling the hostel. None of the numbers Vicki had worked, because they had moved. We asked the woman at reception how much it would be for one room for one night. She said 50 euros. At that point we were so exhausted we said ok. So we both had different accomodations booked but ended up staying there. She definitely gave us a deal because of how late it was, how tired we probably looked, and knowing that if they had told us anything more expensive we would have left. So giving us a deal, they at least made 50 euros that night. So my day from hostel to hotel was a 15 hour adventure...
We then asked if they closed the front door, because we were going to go try and find dinner. She explained how to get in past 11, but said that if we wanted they had a restaurant downstairs by the pool. We looked at each other like "what!? you have a pool!?". So we put our stuff in our room, quickly freshened up, and went to dinner downstairs. Then I threw on my bikini, took a quick dip under the stars by myself which was fabulous, and went to bed. It was the best night sleep I've had in over a week. It was also the best shower I've had in a long time. It's amazing how roughing it a bit makes you appreciate every little detail of a simple hotel.
This morning we had breakfast at our savior hotel, and then trekked back to town and found Vicki's hostel, where I am paying them by the hour to leave my luggage. After a bit of touring Taormina, I'll eat lunch, say bye to Vicki and take the bus down to the train station, destination Siracusa. Hopefully it won't take me that long to get there!
The Path of the Gods
Sunday was a holiday, not sure if it was national or local. I decided to take a hike called The Path of the Gods. My plan was to hike from Positano to Praiano. The paths however are not marked at all so I got a little sidetracked, and not sure what percentage of the official path I walked. I hiked for about 6 hours and basically walked along the top of the mountains along the coast. It was AMAZING. I didn't see another hiker - I perhaps was the only crazy one to hike there in the middle of August. It was a nice change and very peaceful, compared to the hordes of other hikers in Cinque Terre. On the path was just me and a whole lot of nature. Lots of fluttering butterflies, scurrying lizards, and one slithering snake that was a bit too large for comfort. Luckily he was just as scared of me.
I made it to Montepertuso and then hiked up to the Buco di Montepertuso. Another tourist told me about what the locals believe about this hole in the mountain - something about Madonna and the Devil getting into an argument. In order to settle it, they had to try and blow a hole into the mountain and whoever created the bigger hole won. Well apparently the Devil went first and created a dent. Then Madonna of Positano actually created a hole, that the locals now apparently have a festival around, go up and pray to it etc. Need to do some more research on that.
Then I got back on the trail and noticed I was heading away from the water. No idea where I went, but it was a little set of buildings with people but no real roads. So I backtracked and found another trail. The heat and humidity started to get to me so I headed back down and somehow made it to Positano. I then had dinner by the beach and watched the locals setting up for the big festival. Watched a band play outside of the church, little kids running around with glittery hats, butterfly wings, balloons, and glow in the dark bracelets. Fireworks were set to go off at midnight. They were practicing with those pretty much all day. I had to get to bed early though, to start heading south to Sicily at 5:30am, so I missed that action. When I got up to leave, 6 of my roommates weren't even home yet!
I made it to Montepertuso and then hiked up to the Buco di Montepertuso. Another tourist told me about what the locals believe about this hole in the mountain - something about Madonna and the Devil getting into an argument. In order to settle it, they had to try and blow a hole into the mountain and whoever created the bigger hole won. Well apparently the Devil went first and created a dent. Then Madonna of Positano actually created a hole, that the locals now apparently have a festival around, go up and pray to it etc. Need to do some more research on that.
Then I got back on the trail and noticed I was heading away from the water. No idea where I went, but it was a little set of buildings with people but no real roads. So I backtracked and found another trail. The heat and humidity started to get to me so I headed back down and somehow made it to Positano. I then had dinner by the beach and watched the locals setting up for the big festival. Watched a band play outside of the church, little kids running around with glittery hats, butterfly wings, balloons, and glow in the dark bracelets. Fireworks were set to go off at midnight. They were practicing with those pretty much all day. I had to get to bed early though, to start heading south to Sicily at 5:30am, so I missed that action. When I got up to leave, 6 of my roommates weren't even home yet!
Pompei
On Saturday I headed out to Pompei. I walked around the ruins for about 6 hours. I had a morbid fascination with taking photos of the ruins with Mt. Vesuvius (its destroyer) in the background. My Italy book strongly recommended that you buy the guide to the site book in the bookstore at the entrace. I hesitated as I didn't want to spend the money, but so glad I did. It had photos and descriptions of everything that you are looking at. People actually hovered around me to look at my book with me.
It was extremely hot and you had to step into the remains of houses for some shade. While I know some people probably weren't prepared and didn't bring water or snacks, it was a shame to see food vendors there. I also wanted to smack the parents that were allowing their kids to climb on the ruins.
Overall it was a great day, very nice and peaceful to walk around by myself. While I enjoyed the company of my new friends, it was nice to be back on my own for the day.
While walking around a guard that was patrolling the area whistled at me to head down this little desolate alley. I was skeptical, but he said there was a very beautiful house at the end that is not marked or on the map. I looked down the alley, looked back at him. Looked at his badge and official looking outfit. Looked at my map. Looked back at him. Looked back at the alley and the fact that no one else was around and decided to go for it. If he followed me and was creepy I had my pepper spray that Ang gave me. It was an amazing house with lots of murals on the wall. Glad I trusted him. By the time I got back out of it he was nowhere in sight.
I then took the train back to Sorrento, walked around that town for a bit. It was starting to get dark, so I hopped on the bus back Positano and had dinner with Vicki (the British woman that I went to Capri with).
It was extremely hot and you had to step into the remains of houses for some shade. While I know some people probably weren't prepared and didn't bring water or snacks, it was a shame to see food vendors there. I also wanted to smack the parents that were allowing their kids to climb on the ruins.
Overall it was a great day, very nice and peaceful to walk around by myself. While I enjoyed the company of my new friends, it was nice to be back on my own for the day.
While walking around a guard that was patrolling the area whistled at me to head down this little desolate alley. I was skeptical, but he said there was a very beautiful house at the end that is not marked or on the map. I looked down the alley, looked back at him. Looked at his badge and official looking outfit. Looked at my map. Looked back at him. Looked back at the alley and the fact that no one else was around and decided to go for it. If he followed me and was creepy I had my pepper spray that Ang gave me. It was an amazing house with lots of murals on the wall. Glad I trusted him. By the time I got back out of it he was nowhere in sight.
I then took the train back to Sorrento, walked around that town for a bit. It was starting to get dark, so I hopped on the bus back Positano and had dinner with Vicki (the British woman that I went to Capri with).
Friday, August 13, 2010
Positano
Took a bus to Positano yesterday from Rome, was pretty seamless with a smidgen of language barrier confusion, but I made it.
My hostel is at the top of the very steep hillside town. Walking up & down definitely makes me feel less guilty about all the delicious food I've been eating. Not that I felt too guilty before though. I also felt great when after I hiked up two flights of stairs to get to the hostel, the guy that checked me in offered to take my suitcase up the last flight of stairs and he had quite a hard time too!
This is my first shared dorm experience. Not too bad. Bought a little lock for my suitcase which makes me feel more comfortable. I met a girl yesterday in my dorm room and we hung out at the beach and had dinner together, very nice Aussie also traveling by herself. I luckily packed an eye cover thing (whatever those are called) and earplugs. Because when I woke up everyone had nothing but complaints about a few of the girls turning the lights on in the middle of the night to chat and one this morning letting her alarm go off for about 15 minutes. Blissfully didn't hear a thing.
This morning we picked up two more girls also traveling by themselves. Spent the day on Capri Island with an Australian, Argentine & Brit. Took a boat there, then hopped on another boat to tour the island. And then on a little row boat to go into the blue grotto. Gorgeous one minute experience. Twas fun.
My hostel is at the top of the very steep hillside town. Walking up & down definitely makes me feel less guilty about all the delicious food I've been eating. Not that I felt too guilty before though. I also felt great when after I hiked up two flights of stairs to get to the hostel, the guy that checked me in offered to take my suitcase up the last flight of stairs and he had quite a hard time too!
This is my first shared dorm experience. Not too bad. Bought a little lock for my suitcase which makes me feel more comfortable. I met a girl yesterday in my dorm room and we hung out at the beach and had dinner together, very nice Aussie also traveling by herself. I luckily packed an eye cover thing (whatever those are called) and earplugs. Because when I woke up everyone had nothing but complaints about a few of the girls turning the lights on in the middle of the night to chat and one this morning letting her alarm go off for about 15 minutes. Blissfully didn't hear a thing.
This morning we picked up two more girls also traveling by themselves. Spent the day on Capri Island with an Australian, Argentine & Brit. Took a boat there, then hopped on another boat to tour the island. And then on a little row boat to go into the blue grotto. Gorgeous one minute experience. Twas fun.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Venice to Rome
Yesterday was a nice last day in Venice. A few dinners ago I ordered a caraffe of wine that was way too small. So at lunch on my last day there were two caraffes listed with two prices, no mention of size. So with the past experience I ordered the more expensive one, assuming it'd be the perfect amount. It was a liter. Fun how all of the tables turned and looked at me sitting by myself when that was delivered. Oh boy. So to take it like a champ I didn't say anything to the waiter. Two British sisters (mid-40s) turned around and said "girl after our own heart". That's when I noticed they had the exact same pitcher of house white wine emptied, so I asked them if they wanted to help me out. They did and we had a fun conversation. They talked up England a whole lot and said I must get there someday, to the small towns (not just London). And then we talked a lot about traveling alone and how impressed they were that I could do it. So I gave them both an assignment for when they get back home - go to a meal by themselves. One sister said she was up for the challenge. The other one had her doubts, wanted her sister to do it first and tell her about it. It was fun to sit there at my age telling them that it's a life experience they must try.
Anyways, needless to say after lunch I went back to my hostel and took a nap. Then woke up for a fun last night out.
I decided to spend the night in Rome tonight because the hostel that I booked in Positano didn't have availability, and well we all know how much I love Rome. So will get up bright and early to head south.
On the train to Rome from Venice I sat across the aisle from a nice Australian who just finished college, bought a one-way ticket to Europe and hasn't decided yet where she will land to look for a job. Maybe Spain. How fun. Anyways, she made herself a sandwich on the train, and then handed me the fixings to make myself one. So nice. Then she finished her book (Lolita) and asked if I wanted to take it with me. Perfect because I am most likely not going to have a book for the plane ride home at the rate I am reading. Not that I need to make my suitcase any heavier. I have bruises on my legs from hoisting the suitcase up and down stairs. Next time either way smaller suitcase or backpack. And lifting weights when I get home.
So I'm sitting in Rome at my favorite internet point. Favorite because of the extremely good looking guy that works here. He's sadly not here, must be on vacation. Still conveniently close to my hostel and a few of the sites that I want to revisit tonight.
One thing I've been meaning to include in my blog is that everywhere I have been in Italy, guys on the street ask you to sign a petition "against drugs". No idea if that is what they are actually trying to get people to sign. At first I would reply with "no thanks", which then cleverly moved to the lie "I already did!" to now the annoyed they keep asking response of "But I like drugs". Oh if only I could snap a photo of their reactions. Pretty funny.
Anyways, needless to say after lunch I went back to my hostel and took a nap. Then woke up for a fun last night out.
I decided to spend the night in Rome tonight because the hostel that I booked in Positano didn't have availability, and well we all know how much I love Rome. So will get up bright and early to head south.
On the train to Rome from Venice I sat across the aisle from a nice Australian who just finished college, bought a one-way ticket to Europe and hasn't decided yet where she will land to look for a job. Maybe Spain. How fun. Anyways, she made herself a sandwich on the train, and then handed me the fixings to make myself one. So nice. Then she finished her book (Lolita) and asked if I wanted to take it with me. Perfect because I am most likely not going to have a book for the plane ride home at the rate I am reading. Not that I need to make my suitcase any heavier. I have bruises on my legs from hoisting the suitcase up and down stairs. Next time either way smaller suitcase or backpack. And lifting weights when I get home.
So I'm sitting in Rome at my favorite internet point. Favorite because of the extremely good looking guy that works here. He's sadly not here, must be on vacation. Still conveniently close to my hostel and a few of the sites that I want to revisit tonight.
One thing I've been meaning to include in my blog is that everywhere I have been in Italy, guys on the street ask you to sign a petition "against drugs". No idea if that is what they are actually trying to get people to sign. At first I would reply with "no thanks", which then cleverly moved to the lie "I already did!" to now the annoyed they keep asking response of "But I like drugs". Oh if only I could snap a photo of their reactions. Pretty funny.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Untitled
Without a job to worry about and really without a care in the world, this wonderful country definitely has me walking around in rosy colored glasses.
Keeping me grounded is my current novel that I am loving - White Oleander. Those of you who have read it know what I mean. It's a really good intense story.
I headed out today with the intention of walking straight to the vaporetto (waterbus) stop that would take me the Murano. Well there is no walking straight in Venice. I got lost. And then had to go to the bathroom. So I stopped at a cafe, ordered a drink and used the bathroom. Then someone started playing the piano, which made me not want to leave. So I ordered another drink and a snack. That's when a local noticed that I was alone and sat right down at my table outside. He was very nice, just retired and looking for someone to listen to him. He told me I'd make a great therapist. Was cute. Then when I told him where I was headed and asked how to get there, he offered to walk me there (which was much appreciated!). We strolled and he gave me lots of Venice history along the way.
The locals here that don't interact with the tourists via their job (ie work at a hotel, store, restaurant) are definitely the nicest. They seem to seek out the interaction. It makes me think about being back in San Francisco, avoiding the tourists at all costs, never wanting to talk to them. Am I a bad person? Perhaps. Although I do enjoy helping them out when they look lost map in hand.
The trip has also made me appreciate and rekindle my map reading skills (or realize the lack of those skills). It's actually nice to be without my smartphone and google maps readily available.
One thing I keep thinking about while in Venice is how I want to watch The Italian Job when I get home.
Murano was nice, spent most of my day there. It is an island a short waterbus ride away, full of glass factories and shops. I got to see a short demo. Most of the glass factories are closed in August because it is too hot for them to work (and they are all on vacation). This heat is nothing compared to Rome heat. It is quite pleasant here. I do miss being able to swim though, looking forward to swimming on the Amalfi coast in a few days.
Keeping me grounded is my current novel that I am loving - White Oleander. Those of you who have read it know what I mean. It's a really good intense story.
I headed out today with the intention of walking straight to the vaporetto (waterbus) stop that would take me the Murano. Well there is no walking straight in Venice. I got lost. And then had to go to the bathroom. So I stopped at a cafe, ordered a drink and used the bathroom. Then someone started playing the piano, which made me not want to leave. So I ordered another drink and a snack. That's when a local noticed that I was alone and sat right down at my table outside. He was very nice, just retired and looking for someone to listen to him. He told me I'd make a great therapist. Was cute. Then when I told him where I was headed and asked how to get there, he offered to walk me there (which was much appreciated!). We strolled and he gave me lots of Venice history along the way.
The locals here that don't interact with the tourists via their job (ie work at a hotel, store, restaurant) are definitely the nicest. They seem to seek out the interaction. It makes me think about being back in San Francisco, avoiding the tourists at all costs, never wanting to talk to them. Am I a bad person? Perhaps. Although I do enjoy helping them out when they look lost map in hand.
The trip has also made me appreciate and rekindle my map reading skills (or realize the lack of those skills). It's actually nice to be without my smartphone and google maps readily available.
One thing I keep thinking about while in Venice is how I want to watch The Italian Job when I get home.
Murano was nice, spent most of my day there. It is an island a short waterbus ride away, full of glass factories and shops. I got to see a short demo. Most of the glass factories are closed in August because it is too hot for them to work (and they are all on vacation). This heat is nothing compared to Rome heat. It is quite pleasant here. I do miss being able to swim though, looking forward to swimming on the Amalfi coast in a few days.
Sunday, August 8, 2010
The Art of Wandering
I like the days when I have it all planned out, but a day like today where I can just wander and see what happens is quite fun. I decided not to go to Murano, because a nice couple I met last night told me that the glass blowers most likely don't work on Sunday. So am going to head there tomorrow.
I covered a lot of ground today, no idea really where I went as I purposefully didn't get my map out. Lots of little alleyways, am sure I went in circles a few times. I wanted to make it back to the Piazza San Marco at some point, cause that is where this internet point is (need to book my next few hostels). St. Mark's Square is the only place where people are actually trying to get pigeons to land on their arms, hands, and even hair by placing bread crumbs everywhere, to take a photo. Reminiscent of those "holding up" the leaning tower of Pisa. I will not be doing that. Or taking an overpriced gondola ride.
Venice is definitely a glass lover's paradise. If only my suitcase was larger and made entirely of bubble wrap. I have purchased a few small items and just enjoy looking at the rest of it. Great people watching too.
I covered a lot of ground today, no idea really where I went as I purposefully didn't get my map out. Lots of little alleyways, am sure I went in circles a few times. I wanted to make it back to the Piazza San Marco at some point, cause that is where this internet point is (need to book my next few hostels). St. Mark's Square is the only place where people are actually trying to get pigeons to land on their arms, hands, and even hair by placing bread crumbs everywhere, to take a photo. Reminiscent of those "holding up" the leaning tower of Pisa. I will not be doing that. Or taking an overpriced gondola ride.
Venice is definitely a glass lover's paradise. If only my suitcase was larger and made entirely of bubble wrap. I have purchased a few small items and just enjoy looking at the rest of it. Great people watching too.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Venice
Hello blog readers.
Last night was interesting. After my blog post I decided to have a beer at the hostel "bar", thought it might help me sleep better. The room I had was fine, all the furnishings from Ikea. All good except for the bunkbed. It was a bit treacherous to climb up, and shook and squeaked all night long. A deep breath made it squeak.
The guy that I ordered my beer from was quite friendly. I was tired and didn't really have the patience for him, but all-in-all he was very nice. He turned out to be part-owner of the hostel. He tried to convince me I should change my itinerary, head back to Cinque Terre with him (where he lives) and he would take me sailing. I would actually have taken him up on it if I was headed that way. Then he tried to convince me to meet him in Naples and we could sail to Sicily, where he is from, and his mama could make us dinner. Oh boy. All this conversation though got me free beers which led to a much better night sleep. Thank you Francesco!
I saw him again this morning when I checked out, quite a character. Gave me his email address in case I changed my mind and he would come pick me up wherever I was. Breaking hearts all over Italy. ;)
Made it to Venice just fine. My hostel was just a 5-minute walk from the train station. It is a university dorm that they use as a hostel during the summer. I headed out with the intention of simply walking around and seeing where I ended up. Ended up at the Piazza San Marco, one of the biggest tourist destinations I believe. It's also where a lot of the gondola rides start from. I sat for a bit watching all of the gondolas go into the entrance towards the little canals. With the rate of how many were going by, it almost looked like a ride at Disney World. One after the other.
Going to eat dinner soon and then try and figure out how to get back to my hostel. First time I have a curfew. Have to be in by 12:30am and can't leave the hostel before 7am.
Haven't planned all of my days here yet, but I'm going to try to go to Murano tomorrow, the island especially known for its glass. Want to try and get there early enough to watch some glass blowing.
Last night was interesting. After my blog post I decided to have a beer at the hostel "bar", thought it might help me sleep better. The room I had was fine, all the furnishings from Ikea. All good except for the bunkbed. It was a bit treacherous to climb up, and shook and squeaked all night long. A deep breath made it squeak.
The guy that I ordered my beer from was quite friendly. I was tired and didn't really have the patience for him, but all-in-all he was very nice. He turned out to be part-owner of the hostel. He tried to convince me I should change my itinerary, head back to Cinque Terre with him (where he lives) and he would take me sailing. I would actually have taken him up on it if I was headed that way. Then he tried to convince me to meet him in Naples and we could sail to Sicily, where he is from, and his mama could make us dinner. Oh boy. All this conversation though got me free beers which led to a much better night sleep. Thank you Francesco!
I saw him again this morning when I checked out, quite a character. Gave me his email address in case I changed my mind and he would come pick me up wherever I was. Breaking hearts all over Italy. ;)
Made it to Venice just fine. My hostel was just a 5-minute walk from the train station. It is a university dorm that they use as a hostel during the summer. I headed out with the intention of simply walking around and seeing where I ended up. Ended up at the Piazza San Marco, one of the biggest tourist destinations I believe. It's also where a lot of the gondola rides start from. I sat for a bit watching all of the gondolas go into the entrance towards the little canals. With the rate of how many were going by, it almost looked like a ride at Disney World. One after the other.
Going to eat dinner soon and then try and figure out how to get back to my hostel. First time I have a curfew. Have to be in by 12:30am and can't leave the hostel before 7am.
Haven't planned all of my days here yet, but I'm going to try to go to Murano tomorrow, the island especially known for its glass. Want to try and get there early enough to watch some glass blowing.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Lake Como
It is a great feeling to be able to head out for the day without a guidebook or map. Apparently I look like I know what I'm doing, several people asked me questions today on how to use the ticket machines and which train they should get on. Fancy!
I took the metro to the train station and headed to Como. Como is a cute little town that I walked around for a bit. Then I hopped on a ferry to Bellagio. It was an hour ride that stopped at several of the other towns along the lake as well. Such a beautiful lake, gorgeous views. I took lots of photos, but doubt any of them will do it justice.
Bellagio is very touristy and very cute. I found a restaurant off the beaten path, wanted a more "local" experience. My charming waiter asked twice if he could spend the next 3 weeks touring with me. Actually, so did an American family I met today.
For lunch I had one of my favorite pasta dishes that I never had before this trip. I've had it 3 times and every time it is divine. It is simple enough that I can make it home as well - penne all' arrabbiata.
Off to Venice tomorrow.
I took the metro to the train station and headed to Como. Como is a cute little town that I walked around for a bit. Then I hopped on a ferry to Bellagio. It was an hour ride that stopped at several of the other towns along the lake as well. Such a beautiful lake, gorgeous views. I took lots of photos, but doubt any of them will do it justice.
Bellagio is very touristy and very cute. I found a restaurant off the beaten path, wanted a more "local" experience. My charming waiter asked twice if he could spend the next 3 weeks touring with me. Actually, so did an American family I met today.
For lunch I had one of my favorite pasta dishes that I never had before this trip. I've had it 3 times and every time it is divine. It is simple enough that I can make it home as well - penne all' arrabbiata.
Off to Venice tomorrow.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Milan
We got up really early to catch the 5:17am train to Milan this morning. Once we arrived Jenna headed off to the airport while I headed to my hostel. The Zebra hostel.
It was a good day, although it rained the entire time. It is still raining. But since it was my only day allocated for Milan, I headed to the sites anyways and accepted the fact that I'd just be cold and wet all day.
First I went to the Duomo, Italy's 2nd largest church. Very cool to see. I was glad to see that it was open as that was my first escape from the heavy rain. I walked around inside quite a bit, because it was very cool in there and because I wanted to dry out a bit more.
Then I stumbled upon the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, a covered mall that has an outdoor feel. I was trying to make my way to the Chiesa di Santa Maria Delle Grazie, the church that houses Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper. I knew that it would be a stretch to be able to see that, but since I assumed my itinerary would be changing I didn't want to book a ticket in advance. Once I found it and walked in all excited, disappointment splashed over my face when I saw the sign that said "Sold out for the next 2 weeks". I stared at the sign for a while, and gave envious evil glares at the people pulling out their reservation slips. A few minutes later (which felt like forever), I pulled out my Italy book to see what else I could see around the area. Thats when a lovely woman sauntered over and asked if I was looking for a ticket. She had an extra! For the showing in 20 minutes! Luck of the pigeons I tell you. Bought the ticket from her immediately and was all excited again. They only allow max 25 people in at a time, and for ony 15 minutes. Quite intense, you walk through several chambers to keep the air pure before you get let in.
After that wonderful experience, I had some lunch and then wandered to the fashion district - the Quadrilatero d'Oro. It was a fun day with lots of little surprises that I stumbled upon since the only plan was the duomo and the Last Supper.
Lake Como is the plan for tomorrow. Will see if George has time for tea.
It was a good day, although it rained the entire time. It is still raining. But since it was my only day allocated for Milan, I headed to the sites anyways and accepted the fact that I'd just be cold and wet all day.
First I went to the Duomo, Italy's 2nd largest church. Very cool to see. I was glad to see that it was open as that was my first escape from the heavy rain. I walked around inside quite a bit, because it was very cool in there and because I wanted to dry out a bit more.
Then I stumbled upon the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, a covered mall that has an outdoor feel. I was trying to make my way to the Chiesa di Santa Maria Delle Grazie, the church that houses Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper. I knew that it would be a stretch to be able to see that, but since I assumed my itinerary would be changing I didn't want to book a ticket in advance. Once I found it and walked in all excited, disappointment splashed over my face when I saw the sign that said "Sold out for the next 2 weeks". I stared at the sign for a while, and gave envious evil glares at the people pulling out their reservation slips. A few minutes later (which felt like forever), I pulled out my Italy book to see what else I could see around the area. Thats when a lovely woman sauntered over and asked if I was looking for a ticket. She had an extra! For the showing in 20 minutes! Luck of the pigeons I tell you. Bought the ticket from her immediately and was all excited again. They only allow max 25 people in at a time, and for ony 15 minutes. Quite intense, you walk through several chambers to keep the air pure before you get let in.
After that wonderful experience, I had some lunch and then wandered to the fashion district - the Quadrilatero d'Oro. It was a fun day with lots of little surprises that I stumbled upon since the only plan was the duomo and the Last Supper.
Lake Como is the plan for tomorrow. Will see if George has time for tea.
14km hike
After a quick breakfast, our day started out with the toughest part of the hike - from Monterosso to Vernazza. We took lots of breaks. Part of it was on the coast which had a nice breeze, but when in the thick of the woods it was really hot & humid. Once we got to Vernazza we went for a swim and then had a nice lunch.
Jenna's knee started bothering her mid-hike to Vernazza, so she took the train the rest of the way and I hiked it by myself. Good practice for the rest of my trip flying solo. Not sure if I mentioned it, but the only way to get to all 5 towns is via train or the hiking trails. Pretty cool.
Corniglia was confusing to get around, and the water was a bit too rough for me to want to jump in off the dock. There is no beach, just rocks and a dock that people jump off of.
Manarola was very cute. I went into a few of the shops, and ended up getting something that says Monterosso in Manarola. When I went to pay the woman in the shop put down her book she was reading, which was in English and the title was something like - How to Understand Your Dog. So I asked her if the book was good and what was wrong with her dog. I definitely caught her off guard and she kind of stared at me with a look for a while, and then broke the awkwardness by smiling and said that she just started it and that her dog was a terror. I told her how I was a dog person with two cats, and how one of my cats I often want to throw out the window. It was a fun and random conversation. She guessed that Buster was going to be even more of a brat when I get back because I left him for so long. I hope she is wrong!
Anyways, the hike from Manarola to Riomaggiore is really a walk, not a hike. It was nice how in between each town the trails got easier as the day went on. The walk between Manarola and Riomaggiore is called Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane). The main section of it is full of graffiti of lovers names, locks where I guess they lock in their love and make it official by putting a lock on there? We saw a bunch of locks in Florence as well. Anyways, if I ever make it back there I'll be sure to bring some spray paint, a lock, and oh a lover.
Riomaggiore was my favorite of the little towns. Then I headed back to Monterosso via the train and met back up with Jenna to go to dinner. Close by cause my feet needed a break!
The next day we had another beach day, which was wonderful.
One last Cinque Terre comment - the church really close to Manuel's Guesthouse has a very precarious bell ringer (assuming it's not automated). It would ring at odd times, and every once in a while ring 35ish times in a row. Couldn't figure out the order to the madness.
Jenna's knee started bothering her mid-hike to Vernazza, so she took the train the rest of the way and I hiked it by myself. Good practice for the rest of my trip flying solo. Not sure if I mentioned it, but the only way to get to all 5 towns is via train or the hiking trails. Pretty cool.
Corniglia was confusing to get around, and the water was a bit too rough for me to want to jump in off the dock. There is no beach, just rocks and a dock that people jump off of.
Manarola was very cute. I went into a few of the shops, and ended up getting something that says Monterosso in Manarola. When I went to pay the woman in the shop put down her book she was reading, which was in English and the title was something like - How to Understand Your Dog. So I asked her if the book was good and what was wrong with her dog. I definitely caught her off guard and she kind of stared at me with a look for a while, and then broke the awkwardness by smiling and said that she just started it and that her dog was a terror. I told her how I was a dog person with two cats, and how one of my cats I often want to throw out the window. It was a fun and random conversation. She guessed that Buster was going to be even more of a brat when I get back because I left him for so long. I hope she is wrong!
Anyways, the hike from Manarola to Riomaggiore is really a walk, not a hike. It was nice how in between each town the trails got easier as the day went on. The walk between Manarola and Riomaggiore is called Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane). The main section of it is full of graffiti of lovers names, locks where I guess they lock in their love and make it official by putting a lock on there? We saw a bunch of locks in Florence as well. Anyways, if I ever make it back there I'll be sure to bring some spray paint, a lock, and oh a lover.
Riomaggiore was my favorite of the little towns. Then I headed back to Monterosso via the train and met back up with Jenna to go to dinner. Close by cause my feet needed a break!
The next day we had another beach day, which was wonderful.
One last Cinque Terre comment - the church really close to Manuel's Guesthouse has a very precarious bell ringer (assuming it's not automated). It would ring at odd times, and every once in a while ring 35ish times in a row. Couldn't figure out the order to the madness.
Monday, August 2, 2010
Cinque Terre
We arrived in Monterosso yesterday and hiked up several stairways to get to Manuel's guesthouse. They weren't kidding about those stairs. Luckily Lorenzo, the man we communicated with about the reservation, heard me huffing and puffing and carried my suitcase the rest of the way.
Our hotel is in the old part of town, which I'm happy about. Our room has a balcony with an amazing view of the ocean. All of those stairs were worth it for the beautiful view.
Jenna and I immediately put on our bathing suits and hit the beach. We had a bit of time before the sunset to take a dip in the Gulf of Genoa. Perfect temperature - cold enough to be refreshing but warm enough to easily get into it. There are no waves, very serene.
I didn't eat fish at dinner yesterday, but I think it is a must while I am here. There are cute cats (who definitely have homes) roaming the dinner tables asking for scraps of fish.
Today we spent all day relaxing on the beach. We rented two chairs and an umbrella and spent literally all day on the beach. The only time we left was to grab paninis and beer to enjoy on the beach.
I bought a little guide of the hikes around the area and scoped out the one I want to do. That is the plan for tomorrow, to hit the trails after breakfast. My goal is to swim in the water at each of the 5 towns. We are staying in Monterosso because it is the only one with a sandy beach. I have a feeling that I'm going to like the quaintness of the rest of them better, but am glad that we are staying here. It is also not as crowded as I was expecting, which is nice.
Off to dinner. Ciao!
Our hotel is in the old part of town, which I'm happy about. Our room has a balcony with an amazing view of the ocean. All of those stairs were worth it for the beautiful view.
Jenna and I immediately put on our bathing suits and hit the beach. We had a bit of time before the sunset to take a dip in the Gulf of Genoa. Perfect temperature - cold enough to be refreshing but warm enough to easily get into it. There are no waves, very serene.
I didn't eat fish at dinner yesterday, but I think it is a must while I am here. There are cute cats (who definitely have homes) roaming the dinner tables asking for scraps of fish.
Today we spent all day relaxing on the beach. We rented two chairs and an umbrella and spent literally all day on the beach. The only time we left was to grab paninis and beer to enjoy on the beach.
I bought a little guide of the hikes around the area and scoped out the one I want to do. That is the plan for tomorrow, to hit the trails after breakfast. My goal is to swim in the water at each of the 5 towns. We are staying in Monterosso because it is the only one with a sandy beach. I have a feeling that I'm going to like the quaintness of the rest of them better, but am glad that we are staying here. It is also not as crowded as I was expecting, which is nice.
Off to dinner. Ciao!
Sunday, August 1, 2010
I used to like pigeons...
Yesterday was a fun day (& it didn't rain!). We took a bus to Siena, a beautiful drive through what you picture of the Tuscan countryside. The bus is more convenient because it drops you off in the center of town, instead of having to hike up the hill or take a bus from the train station. We couldn't find the tourist office, so we walked towards what we thought was the center of town. We made it to the Piazza del Campo, a scallop shaped piazza. I could picture what it would be like with crowds of people watching the Palio. Maybe someday I'll plan my trip around that. We had a beer and enjoyed watching a bride and groom getting ready for their big day.
Next we headed over to check out the Sienese Duomo, which has a very unique Gothic style. After taking a few photos close to it, we decided to move to the edge of I think a museum, sit on a stone bench connected to the building, and gaze at the Duomo from a distance. This is where the title of this post comes in. Jenna set her sunglasses on the bench. She looked down at one point and saw a little warning shot of pigeon poop. We both chuckled and were relieved it didn't hit us, since the glasses were right between us. Since lightning doesn't strike in the same place twice, I didn't feel the need to hop up right away. Well, that's when I took a look at my jacket and screamed. I got the bulk of it. Damn pigeons!
Then we headed back to the Scallop Piazza and strategically picked a place for dinner that had a cheese plate appetizer. So good.
We wandered back to the bus and waited for a bit before we realized that we had read the schedule wrong. So we had to take the train back to Florence, which took a bit longer but all in all a great night.
Heading to Cinque Terre today. Am very excited about all of the hiking, ocean views, and laying in the sun we are about to do. And of course I'm excited to yell 'Manuel!'
Next we headed over to check out the Sienese Duomo, which has a very unique Gothic style. After taking a few photos close to it, we decided to move to the edge of I think a museum, sit on a stone bench connected to the building, and gaze at the Duomo from a distance. This is where the title of this post comes in. Jenna set her sunglasses on the bench. She looked down at one point and saw a little warning shot of pigeon poop. We both chuckled and were relieved it didn't hit us, since the glasses were right between us. Since lightning doesn't strike in the same place twice, I didn't feel the need to hop up right away. Well, that's when I took a look at my jacket and screamed. I got the bulk of it. Damn pigeons!
Then we headed back to the Scallop Piazza and strategically picked a place for dinner that had a cheese plate appetizer. So good.
We wandered back to the bus and waited for a bit before we realized that we had read the schedule wrong. So we had to take the train back to Florence, which took a bit longer but all in all a great night.
Heading to Cinque Terre today. Am very excited about all of the hiking, ocean views, and laying in the sun we are about to do. And of course I'm excited to yell 'Manuel!'
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